Transducer cable cut, options?

The temp is easy as it's just resistance. I like solder and heat shrink.
Depth and pictures same thing however it has a shield wire over it doesn't it? like a wire mesh braid or tinfoil shield?
If so it's best to continue the shielding and if it does have a shield, splicing, heatshrink, shielding and shrink tube over shouldn't affect performance.
 
Solder is not recommended as it work hardens and cracks where it meets the braid. But in this situation if you use heat shrink on all the solder connections,a layer to connect the outer jackets and a layer to over lap everything by 4" you will have a very rigid bundle of small wires that will be 3/4" thick and not flexing much. Not that I have seen it done on warships.
 
Get your insurance co. to replace the cables. Thats what you paid for isnt it ?
 
insurance is paying for new cables , I started the thread to see if the old one is worth splicing or not for a spare or for using on a cartopper. I will install the new one and use the silicon heat shrink connectors with the solder ring inside and do the solder. solderable butt connectors are what they are called and are what is recommended by lowrance. thanks to a member who pm'd me that info. and thanks all of you for the responses. it's great to be have all these knowledgeable people on here helping so many people with their boating and fishing questions
 
I cut every transducer cable I've bought, but about 1 foot before the head connection. This allows me to pull the cable with the old one that is in place and not have drill a big hole in the transom to feed it forward. Without the connector on it becomes a snap to pull it forward as it will just follow the old cable withoit hanging up. I then take the boat to Greg now at Anchor Marine in Victoria and he solders and heat shrinks the wires/cable back together. With the joint only a foot from the head it is in a dry area in the cabin and I've never had any issue.
 
Solder is not recommended as it work hardens and cracks where it meets the braid. But in this situation if you use heat shrink on all the solder connections,a layer to connect the outer jackets and a layer to over lap everything by 4" you will have a very rigid bundle of small wires that will be 3/4" thick and not flexing much. Not that I have seen it done on warships.
In addition to the above if you do not have the exact correct solder for the wire it will be subject to dissimilar metal corrosion. I soldered all kinds of connections in my boat for many years and they never lasted on the positive wire.
 
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