Transducer Spraying Engine Solution

Baxter

Well-Known Member
UPDATE FEB 04, 2021:

The shield I made in this post has been removed from the boat already already. I switched to a simpler design made out of ABS. See Posts 12 & 13 in this thread for that.

My initial concerns are at the bottom of this post, but I had some nice folks on Facebook (Vancouver Island Salmon Fishing group) note that there may be electrical and electrolysis issues with my having used galvanized steel.

One person suggested that having this galvanized metal combined with the stainless of the transducer bracket and the aluminum of the boat is essentially creating a battery when mixed with the salt water. ! Not sure if that is true or not, but I see the logic, and not worth any risk.

Apparently this small piece of metal can also effect the voltage of the boat, causing a number of issues. SO I figured, play it safe, cut my $2 in losses and start over. New design cost only $3, so I am still ahead in life :) (If it works).

*******************************************
ORIGINAL POST:

I was finding my transducer was spraying a nice rooster tail on my engine. Not good! I managed to find some aftermarket shields that were WAY too expensive for what they were, and could not find any specific to this transducer (not sure if it mattered), so decided to find a DIY solution.

I saw some videos where people had all kinds of solutions. One guy used the inside corner piece for a vinyl gutter and hacked it up to work. Looked good. I went a different (and cheaper route).

Took a 13"x3"x4" piece of galvanized step flashing. $2.10 at Home Depot.

- One bend, 4" up the corner, then wrapped the sides in to make a "box"
- Rounded the corners - cut metal is sharp!
- Drilled holes for bolts and cut a slot for the cable. Used a dremmel to clean up sharp edges from cutting.
- mounted between the boat and the transducer

Mounting it was by far the hardest part mostly as holding things, lining up the holes, and getting the bolts back in was insanely awkward. If you try this, get an extra set of hands! The fabrication was super easy, and I have never really worked with metal before. For anyone with experience it would be a breeze.

Test run will happen this weekend. My potential concerns:

- My slot for the transducer cable should be a bit bigger. While I wrapped the cable in electrical tape and the cable is not in contact with the edge, I worry a bit about the sharp edge cutting the cable a bit. Not much movement there, so SHOULD be okay, but if I take it off at some point I will make the opening a bit bigger, and will look into a better way to cover the cable (Yes I know the tape won't stick around for long!). Maybe I will use a piece of old bike tube or something Not sure yet.

- vertical part of the shield may need to be shorter. I am a bit worried that it might interfere with the readings of the transducer. Easy fix if it does though, take off, trim, re-mount.

- Not sure what kind of force, if any, will be on this when I take corners and on plane. It may be an issue, but unsure. If it is, I will probably try taking a few inches off the length. Most of the splashing likely comes from right at the bracket anyways. I can always remove, but can't add, so figured I would start long.

- May flap or vibrate on plane. Again, will adjust length or height if this is an issue.

- While the edges are not too sharp, in the likelihood that a fish swims over there, the worry of the edge contacting the fishing line is a bit of a concern, but will see what happens with that.

Anyone else have this problem and fix it with a DIY solution? Thoughts on my fix? :)



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Of course after posting this, I discovered the "Rooster Rooter" (https://www.berleypro.com/product/rooster-rooter/). This idea seems SO simple, hard to believe it would work. If my plan fails, rather than modifications to it I may go to Industrial Plastics, get a small piece of plastic and copy the Rooster Rooter. Sure I could just buy it, but where is the fun in that.
 
I was finding my transducer was spraying a nice rooster tail on my engine. Not good! I managed to find some aftermarket shields that were WAY too expensive for what they were, and could not find any specific to this transducer (not sure if it mattered), so decided to find a DIY solution.

I saw some videos where people had all kinds of solutions. One guy used the inside corner piece for a vinyl gutter and hacked it up to work. Looked good. I went a different (and cheaper route).

Took a 13"x3"x4" piece of galvanized step flashing. $2.10 at Home Depot.

- One bend, 4" up the corner, then wrapped the sides in to make a "box"
- Rounded the corners - cut metal is sharp!
- Drilled holes for bolts and cut a slot for the cable. Used a dremmel to clean up sharp edges from cutting.
- mounted between the boat and the transducer

Mounting it was by far the hardest part mostly as holding things, lining up the holes, and getting the bolts back in was insanely awkward. If you try this, get an extra set of hands! The fabrication was super easy, and I have never really worked with metal before. For anyone with experience it would be a breeze.

Test run will happen this weekend. My potential concerns:

- My slot for the transducer cable should be a bit bigger. While I wrapped the cable in electrical tape and the cable is not in contact with the edge, I worry a bit about the sharp edge cutting the cable a bit. Not much movement there, so SHOULD be okay, but if I take it off at some point I will make the opening a bit bigger, and will look into a better way to cover the cable (Yes I know the tape won't stick around for long!). Maybe I will use a piece of old bike tube or something Not sure yet.

- vertical part of the shield may need to be shorter. I am a bit worried that it might interfere with the readings of the transducer. Easy fix if it does though, take off, trim, re-mount.

- Not sure what kind of force, if any, will be on this when I take corners and on plane. It may be an issue, but unsure. If it is, I will probably try taking a few inches off the length. Most of the splashing likely comes from right at the bracket anyways. I can always remove, but can't add, so figured I would start long.

- May flap or vibrate on plane. Again, will adjust length or height if this is an issue.

- While the edges are not too sharp, in the likelihood that a fish swims over there, the worry of the edge contacting the fishing line is a bit of a concern, but will see what happens with that.

Anyone else have this problem and fix it with a DIY solution? Thoughts on my fix? :)



View attachment 61332View attachment 61333View attachment 61334View attachment 61335View attachment 61331View attachment 61336
I did the same on my boat but used 1/4" thick alum channel as I didnt know if Tin that thin of gauge would hold up while under power but mine works wicked for keeping the spray down
 
The rooster is caused usually from the gap in the transducer bracket. Water look for least path resistance and shoots upward between the bracket itself. Even a small gap in there does it.

I know it sounds stupid but I electrical tape all of mine. Gets rid of it most of time.
 
The rooster is caused usually from the gap in the transducer bracket. Water look for least path resistance and shoots upward between the bracket itself. Even a small gap in there does it.

I know it sounds stupid but I electrical tape all of mine. Gets rid of it most of time.
The rooster is caused usually from the gap in the transducer bracket. Water look for least path resistance and shoots upward between the bracket itself. Even a small gap in there does it.

I know it sounds stupid but I electrical tape all of mine. Gets rid of it most of time.
If that's the case, then I suppose my DIY job would work if super short? say an inch or two just at the bracket?

Thanks for the intel!
 
The rooster is caused usually from the gap in the transducer bracket. Water look for least path resistance and shoots upward between the bracket itself. Even a small gap in there does it.

I know it sounds stupid but I electrical tape all of mine. Gets rid of it most of time.
I tried, didn't work for me :oops:
 
This looks like it would work. A Toilet Flange and piece of PVC pipe
View attachment 61351
Ya, I saw one like that (maybe that was it) but would not work for my boat (see pic). First, I don't want to drill into the alum hull, but also, I have a mounting bracket for the transducer and a wash down intake right beside it, so this solution would not quite work in my situation.
 
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Going to switch to plastic and build one to copy this: https://www.berleypro.com/product/rooster-rooter/

Will see how that goes.

Upon research and discussion, my galvanized metal one sounds like it could cause issues in terms of electrolysis etc. One person even suggested that when mixed with the salt water would essentially create a battery. Not sure if that is true, but I see the logic, and if it even could be true, then certainly I want to avoid that!
 
Changed it up. Copied a product from AU. $3 with of abs. Will test Saturday!

UPDATE: This design did NOT work. :( Newer plan did work, see further down in this thread....
 

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Ahh ok, I see it there, great. I'll try for something like this. A lot nicer than my duck tape. Thanks!
After I test it on Saturday I'll post an update as to whether or not this simpler method works. Will try to take a little video of it in action (assuming I am not out on my own, probably not a great idea to be on plane, by myself, and hanging off the back of the boat. lol )
 
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gorilla tape between the transducer and bracket for me. super duper mickey mouse but it works
 
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