Stainless or aluminum baitstation/fishboard

[Clint r]

I'm just headed out the door, but will post pictures later. I can make socket/receiver type mounts for tables, BBQs ect.

Get one or two of the Scotty fish finder mounts or similar. They slip in to the standard base. Or turn a rod of plastic to fit the mount base.

 

[finaddict]

Hi Clint,

Have a look at the "modifications you're proud of" thread to see some ideas. I posted mine there as well.

http://www.sportfishingbc.com/forum/showthread.php?19023-Modifications-you-re-proud-of/page6

Starboard is a great medium to work with. Not quite as sturdy as aluminum, but really easy to clean. If you are going with Aluminum, you should put in a starboard liner to butcher on. I also included the details of the mounting system in both locations (in use and stored).

 

[SpringVelocity]

I'm a stainless guy but I'd go aluminum. I had a small SS cleaning table for my K&C. I was worried the edges were too sharp. They weren't knife edge but if you fell on one of them it would certainly hurt. Mine was pretty small and was still pretty heavy.

You can get around the sharp edges by drawing/design it out in CAD and CNC lasering or waterjetting the metal parts. Just add radius to all your corners. If you waterjet you can do both the stainless and the board......I would do it right on draw it out cut your parts and bolt or weld together...saves screwing around. Cost wise cutting its probably not that expensive to do that you have ...just keep that in mind... . Does your shop have a water jet? The scotty mount are a neat option because if table isn't there you can utilize them...

 

[Clint r]

Funny that you mention a water jet. I work two days a week at a shop helping a friend out and he's purchased one. Delivery in three weeks. Can't wait to play with it. I do SS stuff at home too, but not nearly on the scale of my buddy. He's more production so can afford the toys. I'm more one off and have to do everything go by hand. Maybe one day though. On my table, it was 12guage and about 1/8" thick. I rounded the edges and used something called a soft wheel to smooth them out. Still thought the edge was too thin. Maybe a rim welded around the top but it was still pretty heavy. Next one I'm thinking star board or maybe a sheet of uhmw or whatever it is cutting boards are made from. Or maybe aluminum with a thin skin of stainless for the cutting surface. Have to wait and see.

You can get around the sharp edges by drawing/design it out in CAD and CNC lasering or waterjetting the metal parts. Just add radius to all your corners. If you waterjet you can do both the stainless and the board......I would do it right on draw it out cut your parts and bolt or weld together...saves screwing around. Cost wise cutting its probably not that expensive to do that you have ...just keep that in mind... . Does your shop have a water jet? The scotty mount are a neat option because if table isn't there you can utilize them...

 

[SpringVelocity]

Water jetting is OK but start up to put in is expensive, and its a messy process... Same as plasma tables. If you doing aluminum CNC router is the way to go and smaller gauge stuff... Still trying to get mine.... Anyways don't want to derail this too much that link posted above had some good ideas with some installs...

 

[Clint r]

Here's a couple of pictures of the sockets I used for my table. The long tube measures 1" and is just shown for an example of how I attached it to the table. It could be longer or shorter as required. The actual socket is what I use for boarding ladders to slip into but they worked out great for my table legs too. Again the length is personal preference.

 

[Fisher_dude]

Just a quick update. Made up a quick drawing of what I want and the next run of 3/16 aluminum plate that we do, the guys are gonna rip off the base on the waterjet for me. Next update will probably be of it after its built

 

[Oly1]

Those are great looking mounts Clint. I have been looking for something to attach one to the back of my boat. That's exactly what I have been looking for. Great looking work.

 

[bigbruce]

I used a Scotty 12" riser. Can be mounted on a Scotty base.

 

[Gear'n'beer!]

I made one for my last boat a few years ago. Nylon and just mount to Scotty plate I had lying around.

 

[Sentinel]

Pretty clever some of the mount ideas. GearnBeer you could use flat head SS fasteners and countersink the holes then the Scotty knobs would not be in the way for filleting.

 

[JAC]

I used scotty well nuts and bolted to the lid of my cooler

 

[Gear'n'beer!]

Pretty clever some of the mount ideas. GearnBeer you could use flat head SS fasteners and countersink the holes then the Scotty knobs would not be in the way for filleting.

I have since modified table to fit in one of my fish holds of new boat but I still use Scotty knobs for ease of install/removal.....and I don't fillet on the boat ,which is illegal.

 

[tubber]

I have since modified table to fit in one of my fish holds of new boat but I still use Scotty knobs for ease of install/removal.....and I don't fillet on the boat ,which is illegal.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but one could leave the little pec fin and tail on one fillet of hali, then package all 4 fillets together. Leave the tail on a salmon. Put both filets in a bag. Good to go. I ice and fillet at home, so perhaps my memory has slipped.

 

[Sentinel]

Absolutely correct Tubber, just have to leave tail on peck fillet as well. Just did that recently on a multi day trip staying on the boat. Also can utilize fillet table when preparing for consumption.

 

[Gear'n'beer!]

Well I stand corrected, never thought about doing that either. Learn something new every day

 

[JAC]

Must make sure the salmon is legal length with out head on. So for small fish that may not work