Smoke from Ignition Switch Area

[Ringo]

I was trolling yesterday when I smelled burnt plastic and a few seconds later saw smoke coming out from under the ignition switch. I did a quick visual inspection and wires all looked Ok.
I have recently installed a 2nd battery (with NO switches) to supply for a 24V trolling motor and I wonder if it's just too much voltage that's causing the issue. I spoke with a technician at a marina this morning and he was suggesting that the ignition switch might be faulty and should be replaced.
Any idea what could be causing the issue and what other things should be checked/fixed before replacing the ignition switch? Thank you.

 

[merrittboy1]

I was trolling yesterday when I smelled burnt plastic and a few seconds later saw smoke coming out from under the ignition switch. I did a quick visual inspection and wires all looked Ok.
I have recently installed a 2nd battery (with NO switches) to supply for a 24V trolling motor and I wonder if it's just too much voltage that's causing the issue. I spoke with a technician at a marina this morning and he was suggesting that the ignition switch might be faulty and should be replaced.
Any idea what could be causing the issue and what other things should be checked/fixed before replacing the ignition switch? Thank you.

Have a Mercury 9.9, wires were rubbing against handle. Boat kept lugging. We had no idea there was a short until we saw smoke and received a few shocks when touching handle. Only happened when in rougher water. Check for worn area on wires, near main handle. Good luck.

 

[GLG]

Is the 24 volt electric motor the only motor you have on your boat? I ask because an ignition switch is for a gas motor and if you have one on your boat the two system can't be joined. Maybe there is a way but I have my doubts.
Did you hook the batteries in series or parallel?

If the batteries are hooked in parallel then it's a 12 volt system and if you hooked up the 24 volt electric motor from under the dash then you are probably pulling to many amps thru the wires and switch. You may need to run a separate set of wires to the electric motor from the batteries. The gauge of wire will be dependent on the length and the apps required. See your manufacturer for recommendations.

If you hooked up the batteries in series then it's a 24 volt system and yes you have problems.

OK I just checked you past posts and it seems you have a 16' Lund and a 50hp on it. So you may not have a dash. You may have tiller steer and if the batteries are in parallel then yea merrittboy1 may have nailed it.

 

[Ringo]

I have a gas outboard with the remote ignition switch. I also have a 24V electric trolling motor on the boat. May batteries are installed in series.

 

[Ringo]

If you hooked up the batteries in series then it's a 24 volt system and yes you have problems.

Thanks, GLG. The batteries are installed in series. The trolling motor is hooked directly to the batteries. I didn't have any issues for the past couple of months (since I installed the 2nd battery) but now that I'm thinking maybe I should:
- Install the batteries in parallel
- Directly connect the 24V trolling motor to the battery
- Check for any damaged wires in the ignition area

Am I on the right track?

 

[GLG]

You gas motor needs 12 volt system and you electric motor needs a 24 volt system. So the best way to do that is with 3 batteries. 1 for the 12 volt system and 2 in series for the 24 volt system. They must be separate with no wires joining them. You could step down a feed from the 24 volt supply to the 12 volt system but that would be costly. Perhaps there is a product out there made for this problem but like I said I'm not that versed in 24 Volt trolling motors. Bottom line is you should not run your 12 Volt (gas) at 24 volts.

Can you run the electric motor on 12 volts? If so run your batteries parallel so that the two systems match.

 

[Ringo]

Thank you. There is simply not enough room in my boat for a 3rd battery. When I'm on the salt I never use the trolling motor. Maybe I should just take the jump cable off and only install it when the gas motor is off and I'm using the 24v trolling motor on lakes/small rivers. That will eliminate the risk of running the main motor on 24V. Any thoughts??

 

[GLG]

OK I just found this. Learned something new today.
Modified for you because it not that clear.
http://reynoldsracingmarine.com/tm_wiring.htm
12-/24-Volt Motors
Use two 12-volt deep-cycle marine batteries and connect in the following manner:
1. Connect the RED wire from the 24v trolling motor power cable to the positive (+) post of battery A. Use 40-amp circuit breaker on this connection.
2. Connect the BLACK wire from the 24v trolling motor power cable to the negative (-) post of battery B.
2.1 Connect the Black wire from your gas motor (negitive) to (-) post of battery B
3. Connect the WHITE (could be red) wire from the Gas motor power cable to the positive post of battery B. This will be your 12-volt lead. Include a 40-amp breaker on this connection.
4. Connect a jumper from the negative (-) post of battery A to the positive (+) post of battery B.

 

[Ringo]

Thanks very much GLG. That's exactly how my current installation is. Do you still see an issue with this setup, in terms of running my 12V gas motor off of this setting? Or there might be issues with wires/ignition switch that have nothing to do with how the batteries are installed??

 

[GLG]

Nope you should be good to go with that setup.
I have had switch die so that would be you next step.

added: check for corrosion on you motor and on your controls sometime corrosion will heat up wires. Look careful on all the negative (black) wires. The wires have to make a circuit and when the ground is corroded then positive (red) wire has to push a lot of power to complete the circuit.

If it were my boat I would prefer that the 2 batteries were both the same and bought at the same time as one could be weak and will draw down the other but other then that it's OK....