Sealing access hatches - what to use?

Whole in the Water

Well-Known Member
I need to waterproof some access hatches I have in the aluminum floor of my boat. Any recommendations for something that can keep the water out but allow easy access when needed. Thinking about Silicone, Sikaflex, foam tape, etc.???
 
I need to waterproof some access hatches I have in the aluminum floor of my boat. Any recommendations for something that can keep the water out but allow easy access when needed. Thinking about Silicone, Sikaflex, foam tape, etc.???
Is it 2 piece access hatch? One piece screwed into the deck, then the access part is a screw in/pry out hatch?
 
Not sure if this would be relevant to your boat design. My boat has a long Al tank along the keel line amidship. I suspect it would be very difficult to get that compartment water tight and keep it completely dry, taking into consideration even condensation. I am not sure if I would want to even try and seal it in as I think the more it breathes, the better in terms of corrosion control for the Al tank.
There is an under deck bulkhead between the fuel tank compartment and what used to be the motor compartment before the boat was poded. It is low enough that air can circulate under the deck and over the top of the bulkhead to let the Al tank compartment breathe. There are also two very short tubes (about an inch) through the bulkhead right at the bottom. This allows any water that does get into the fuel tank compartment to move aft, where the auto bilge pump will deal with it.

I also have a small round plastic access hatch in my deck fuel tank deck cover that has its own rubber seal and does not appear to leak. Perhaps you need a new hatch or just the seal. As I recall, those hatches are not very expensive. With a two part hatch, it is one thing to seal in the non-removable part to prevent water leaking under it, and we have used Sikaflex for that on some two part hatches. If it is the seal under the removable part of the hatch that is leaking, you need a new hatch, or at least a new seal ring. That is, if you want to keep it as a functional easy access hatch.
 
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Not sure if this would be relevant to your boat design. My boat has a long tank along the keel line amidship. I suspect it would be very difficult to get that compartment water tight and keep it completely dry, taking into consideration even condensation. I am not sure if I would want to even try and seal it in as I think the more it breathes, the better in terms of corrosion control for the Al tank.
There is an under deck bulkhead between the fuel tank compartment and what used to be the motor compartment before the boat was poded. It is low enough that air can circulate under the deck and over the top of the bulkhead to let the Al tank compartment breathe. There are also two very short tubes through the bulkhead right at the bottom. This allows any water that does get into the fuel tank compartment to move aft, where the auto bilge pump will deal with it.

I also have a small round plastic access hatch in my deck fuel tank cover that has its own rubber seal and does not appear to leak. Perhaps you need a new hatch or just the seal. As I recall, those hatches are not very expensive. With a two part hatch, it is one thing to seal in the non-removable part to prevent water leaking under it, and we have used Sikaflex for that on some two part hatches. If it is the seal under the removable part of the hatch that is leaking, you need a new hatch, or at least a new seal ring. That is, if you want to keep it as a functional easy access hatch.
Thanks for the info Rick. This is a aluminum round plate access cover that is screwed into the floor, in the middle of my deck so I would like a watertight seal that is removable as it gets hosed down with water frequently.
 
Any idea where you can buy a large sheet of rubber to cut out of 8 inch diameter gasket?
Trotac sells high grade rubber off of large roles for marine use. I think they have it in two different thickness. Some people put it under large marine fuel tanks to cushion and absorb the shock of falling off a wave.
 
Thanks Rick. Went to Trotac and get the 1/16" rubber sheet to make the gasket and got some 1/4" rubber sheet to make the gaskets to go on my new stainless steel boom mounted rod holders so they don't slip or twist as much. Gotta like Trotac - great store! :D
 
Thanks Rick. Went to Trotac and get the 1/16" rubber sheet to make the gasket and got some 1/4" rubber sheet to make the gaskets to go on my new stainless steel boom mounted rod holders so they don't slip or twist as much. Gotta like Trotac - great store! :D
That’s a good idea. I need to do a couple rod holders as well. How much a sheet?
 
Thanks Rick. Went to Trotac and get the 1/16" rubber sheet to make the gasket and got some 1/4" rubber sheet to make the gaskets to go on my new stainless steel boom mounted rod holders so they don't slip or twist as much. Gotta like Trotac - great store! :D
Glad they had the thickness you need. I use that stuff to drape over the side of the boat to protect it from crab trap damage and keep the trap woven stainless wire from get hung up on the cleat. When we put high-end stainless rod holders on the rigger booms one of my buddies who is a great fabricator, drilled and tapped them for a stainless set screw bolt to keep the holders from ever spinning on the boom. You do have to be careful because if you do it wrong, it can interfere with the extension boom fully collapsing down back inside the primary boom tube.
 
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