Lets talk Downrigger Braid

Another vote for snubbers to tuna cord to braid. One thing in seem to go through snubbers pretty easily as they wear at the loop so make sure to stretch them with the cannon ball before bombs away to make sure the loop is in tact.
 
I only use the Tuff Line Downrigger braid. 1/2 the diameter of any of the brands mentioned, costs less and same breaking strength. Sorry but the Scotty stuff looks like rope and almost same as wire diameter. I have used for last 8 years and will continue until a stronger, thinner and cheaper braid is invented. Tuff Line diameter is VERY noticeable when deep trolling, blowback is half other braids for same depth. I also use cord and snubber, easier to grab and holds release better.

HM
 
I only use the Tuff Line Downrigger braid. 1/2 the diameter of any of the brands mentioned, costs less and same breaking strength. Sorry but the Scotty stuff looks like rope and almost same as wire diameter. I have used for last 8 years and will continue until a stronger, thinner and cheaper braid is invented. Tuff Line diameter is VERY noticeable when deep trolling, blowback is half other braids for same depth. I also use cord and snubber, easier to grab and holds release better.

HM
What lb test are you running?
 
I use 200lb, it comes in other weights also, 150, 250?. Make sure its Tuff Line Downrigger line, states on box. Never had it snap, I do run 13 lb stainless finned pancake weights. Blowback at 200+ ft is substantially less than my buddy running scotty stuff and 20lb balls, his DR reads lots more line out when bumping the mud. Also run Tuff Line 80lb normal braid on my lake trolling downriggers. Just remember to keep apples to apples when comparing, same as lb ????? mono is BS advertising, only look at spec diameter, .019, for 50 lb tuff line on hali gear. Power pro 50 I think is .040. Tuff line is thinnest, for the price, there are thinner braids but 3x the cost for .01 gain. Got mine at PNT.

HM
 
This is how mine are set-up but now I lose the swivel.
 

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Tuna cord gangion is very very stretchy stuff. I don't think there's much point in using an actual snubber with this setup.

Make sure your downrigger brake isn't set too tight. It should be loose enough to forgive a newbie on the boat letting go of the brake at full speed drop. Check it every time, they seem to move a bit on the own. This lesson has been learned the hard way.
 
This is the palomar knot that connects the braid to the small loop in the paracord. I finished the knot off with a couple half-hitches just to keep the tag end organized. The palomar knot by itself will hold just fine.
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This pic shows the loop that connects the cannonball. This loop is a bit longer than I normally use, but its because I shortened up the length of paracord on the fly and never readjusted the loop size. You only need a loop thats about 8-12" long so the cannonball can fit through it. Feed the big loop through the eye of the cannonball and then open the loop and wrap it around the cannonball. No knots and disconnects easily if thats whats required.
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Thats all there is to it. No swivels or clips or anything sharp to cut your hands on. If you guys need a more detailed breakdown I can do a step-by-step guide or something
 
This is the palomar knot that connects the braid to the small loop in the paracord. I finished the knot off with a couple half-hitches just to keep the tag end organized. The palomar knot by itself will hold just fine.
View attachment 42622

This pic shows the loop that connects the cannonball. This loop is a bit longer than I normally use, but its because I shortened up the length of paracord on the fly and never readjusted the loop size. You only need a loop thats about 8-12" long so the cannonball can fit through it. Feed the big loop through the eye of the cannonball and then open the loop and wrap it around the cannonball. No knots and disconnects easily if thats whats required.
View attachment 42623

Thats all there is to it. No swivels or clips or anything sharp to cut your hands on. If you guys need a more detailed breakdown I can do a step-by-step guide or something

“ If you guys need a more detailed breakdown I can do a step-by-step guide or something”

I’d be grateful for that and I suspect others would too!
 
Another vote for simpler is better...

Downrigger Braid of choice tied to a quality barrel swivel (change this out if it even starts to look a bit funky but at least once a year)

Run a length of tuna cord (approx 10 feet) through swivel... tie two ends cord together with granny knot... end to end... makes a total length of "doubled" line about 5 feet. [note: adjust this total length to your boat/liking]

When fishing take knot of tuna cord and run it through eye of cannonball about a foot or so, then open the "doubled' line , pass ball through, pull cord snug... ready to fish

Use clip to attach offshore release... goes on the tuna cord.... hook up trolling line and you're fishin'
 
Good info on this post

I still use braid today but when I first switch over I lost more cannonballls that season then I did the previous 5 seasons . Now I really pay attention to my line and look frayed sections or Knicks in the line. It doesn't take much to damage braid if rubbed against your boat, trim tab or prop guard on a tight turn. With cable you can see and hear the broken strands when passing through the pulley indicating a weak spot. Now I lightly put my finger on the braid to feel for weak spots when bring up on the rigger.

I use the Scotty snubbers they help bounce the ball out off rock gardens if fishing tight to rock piles and bottom.

Also I put a thin piece of surgical tubing on the DR clip that attaches to the braid this will stop the clip from sliding up the braid especially if your stacking riggers
 
Good info on this post

I still use braid today but when I first switch over I lost more cannonballls that season then I did the previous 5 seasons . Now I really pay attention to my line and look frayed sections or Knicks in the line. It doesn't take much to damage braid if rubbed against your boat, trim tab or prop guard on a tight turn. With cable you can see and hear the broken strands when passing through the pulley indicating a weak spot. Now I lightly put my finger on the braid to feel for weak spots when bring up on the rigger.

I use the Scotty snubbers they help bounce the ball out off rock gardens if fishing tight to rock piles and bottom.

Also I put a thin piece of surgical tubing on the DR clip that attaches to the braid this will stop the clip from sliding up the braid especially if your stacking riggers
I tried that and it didn't work at all.
 
Tried other brands of braid, some are much thicker in diameter then others, had a store put on there stock line on for me and i
had Power Pro on already the other side diameters were noticeable, Power Pro cut the water like a knife very little blow back
the store stuff had major blow back was very annoying in just little current and faster speeds, just something to keep in mind
 
Good info on this post

I still use braid today but when I first switch over I lost more cannonballls that season then I did the previous 5 seasons . Now I really pay attention to my line and look frayed sections or Knicks in the line. It doesn't take much to damage braid if rubbed against your boat, trim tab or prop guard on a tight turn. With cable you can see and hear the broken strands when passing through the pulley indicating a weak spot. Now I lightly put my finger on the braid to feel for weak spots when bring up on the rigger.

I use the Scotty snubbers they help bounce the ball out off rock gardens if fishing tight to rock piles and bottom.

Also I put a thin piece of surgical tubing on the DR clip that attaches to the braid this will stop the clip from sliding up the braid especially if your stacking riggers
Surgical tubing! Nice. I will give this a try.
Thanks!
 
Was at CTire in Duncan yesterday, 300ft 200lb Tuff Line =$34.99, 400 ft 250lb=$55 This is the downrigger braid, not regular line. Do miss the hum on wire, don't miss the sharp frays or blowback.

HM
 
Another vote for simpler is better...

Downrigger Braid of choice tied to a quality barrel swivel (change this out if it even starts to look a bit funky but at least once a year)

Run a length of tuna cord (approx 10 feet) through swivel... tie two ends cord together with granny knot... end to end... makes a total length of "doubled" line about 5 feet. [note: adjust this total length to your boat/liking]

When fishing take knot of tuna cord and run it through eye of cannonball about a foot or so, then open the "doubled' line , pass ball through, pull cord snug... ready to fish

Use clip to attach offshore release... goes on the tuna cord.... hook up trolling line and you're fishin'

Just to clarify, granny knot you mean a square knot? What in your opinion is the best brand swivel and size for this? Much appreciated.

Thanks to all for the info. I had DR issues last summer while still learning - wasn’t adequately equipped with spare gear and missed a tide after pinging both DRs. Missing a tide is big for me given I get only two weeks on the ocean a summer. Won’t make those mistakes again...nothing beats time on the water to learn the hard way!

I have been running snubbers or the Scotty tuna cord/ snubber out of the box set up but I like the simplicity of this better. Gets rid of the stupid sure stops beads that never stay put.
 
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