Hull extension pod ideas needed

KMay

Member
Hello everyone, i would like to supply my welder with an idea of what i would like my new pod to look like. Here is what i know so far: full hull extension, single outboard plus kicker, tabs welded on for trim tabs and zincs. Im hoping to get a few pictures of what other people got done.
The boat is a zeta 24 wide cabin.
Thanks!
 
Exactly what do you mean by full hull extension
Pic is a 23 Hourston
 

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Exactly what do you mean by full hull extension
Pic is a 23 Hourston
I was planning on getting the welder to make the pod the exact shape and width of the hull. I hope that solves all the "getting the pod right" learning curve.
Your boats beautiful. Im very jealous!
 
There is perhaps a dozen threads or more on this forum with a lot of relevant discussion on this subject you could search for.
In my view, a properly pod converted boat can be a thing of beauty but a poorly designed pod conversion can be a total disaster and possible boat write off and extremely expensive to boot. The boat can end up with poor stability, poor seaworthyness, poor performance and/or poor fuel economy from cavitation or the hull constantly porpoising on plane etc.. I suspect that not all boats are even suitable for a pod conversion.

They are lots of individuals with the fabrication and welding skills to build you a pod. There are a lot less with the experience and/or marine architectural/engineering skills to assess your boat and design you a pod that will work well with it, as well as other related modifications that may or may not be necessary such as location of the main fuel tank and weight distribution, center of gravety etc. There are experienced boat builders and small shipyards that could do it for your and most likely get it right, but they would likely be very expensive. If it were me I would be more comfortable with a boat builder who has previouse experience pod converting your particular boat with a good outcome. With a glass hull you will also want to be sure the hull has no rot in it before you spend the money and effort on the conversion, unless a total boat rebuild (glass over wood deck, stringers, transome etc.) is part of your plan. With a conversion from an inboard, remember you currently have no transome ports for controls, power cables and fuel lines etc and you will find you most likely will need a full remote kicker, then there is the transome drain plug issue and the routing issue for the trim tab lines and many other things you will need to plan for.

If you are set on doing it yourself and if it were me, I would look for the same boat that has already been sucessfully pod converted with a good outcome and then have that pod and the mounting locations measured both for the pod and motors and the pod cloned by a good fabricator/welder experienced with pod conversions. It would also be nice, if possible, to go for a ride on that boat and see what you think of the conversion and the boats stability, handling and trim tab use etc. You mentioned some tabs (attachment points) for mounting things and you may also want a tab for mounting your transducer if you are not planning on a through hull type. Different spec. bottom paint is needed for the glass hull and the Al. pod. The list goes on and on and there will be many other considerations and costs. In short, not a decision to take lightly.
 
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There is perhaps a dozen threads or more on this forum with a lot of relevant discussion on this subject you could search for.
In my view, a properly pod converted boat can be a thing of beauty but a poorly designed pod conversion can be a total disaster and possible boat write off and extremely expensive to boot. The boat can end up with poor stability, poor seaworthyness, poor performance and/or poor fuel economy from cavitation or the hull constantly porpoising on plane etc.. I suspect that not all boats are even suitable for a pod conversion.

They are lots of individuals with the fabrication and welding skills to build you a pod. There are a lot less with the experience and/or marine architectural/engineering skills to assess your boat and design you a pod that will work well with it, as well as other related modifications that may or may not be necessary such as location of the main fuel tank and weight distribution, center of gravety etc. There are experienced boat builders and small shipyards that could do it for your and most likely get it right, but they would likely be very expensive. If it were me I would be more comfortable with a boat builder who has previouse experience pod converting your particular boat with a good outcome. With a glass hull you will also want to be sure the hull has no rot in it before you spend the money and effort on the conversion, unless a total boat rebuild (glass over wood deck, stringers, transome etc.) is part of your plan. With a conversion from an inboard, remember you currently have no transome ports for controls, power cables and fuel lines etc and you will find you most likely will need a full remote kicker, then there is the transome drain plug issue and the routing issue for the trim tab lines and many other things you will need to plan for.

If you are set on doing it yourself and if it were me, I would look for the same boat that has already been sucessfully pod converted with a good outcome and then have that pod and the mounting locations measured both for the pod and motors and the pod cloned by a good fabricator/welder experienced with pod conversions. It would also be nice, if possible, to go for a ride on that boat and see what you think of the conversion and the boats stability, handling and trim tab use etc. You mentioned some tabs (attachment points) for mounting things and you may also want a tab for mounting your transducer if you are not planning on a through hull type. Different spec. bottom paint is needed for the glass hull and the Al. pod. The list goes on and on and there will be many other considerations and costs. In short, not a decision to take lightly.
Thanks for the information!
 
Exactly what do you mean by full hull extension
Pic is a 23 Hourston
I would go this route on your zeta are you replacing/moving your fuel tank as well? The only change I might make to that design is to have bent the end of the material to match the first chine which is likely minor anyways. Your staying with a single engine and kicker, if you were adding twin 150-200s I would say more floatation possibly needed. Take care in mounting the motor at the correct height and trying a few props to find what works best and you should see a result your happy with!
 
I would go this route on your zeta are you replacing/moving your fuel tank as well? The only change I might make to that design is to have bent the end of the material to match the first chine which is likely minor anyways. Your staying with a single engine and kicker, if you were adding twin 150-200s I would say more floatation possibly needed. Take care in mounting the motor at the correct height and trying a few props to find what works best and you should see a result your happy with!
 
Im going to double the size of the fuel tank under the back deck and was worried about weight. It seems (and i may be wrong) that the only down side to pod that matches the back of the boat is the cost. My goal is to get the absolute best performance without worrying about cost.
 
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