Fuel rail corrosion

prodjsaig

Well-Known Member
Decided to get the fuel injectors air injectors and rails cleaned at NW injectors in Port kells. Check out the bottom of my starboard rail. The retainer should keep it from popping out but there will be a void underneath. My plan is to get some jb weld coat the fitting in oil and then fill under the fitting pull it out in a few hours and dress it if need be. The pipe is still intact so I think i can fix it

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Man that is ugly, almost looks like there could be electrolysis going on in addition to corrosion. When you get it all repaired and back together and working, spray the motor down with Deep Creep. It does a good job of protecting the motor. I learned that from a local Merc. Dealer. They said it was the last thing they do when they are finished working on a motor.

If reducing length a little would not affect function and mounting, could a machine shop mill it off flat to clean metal and clean up the threads etc. if necessary? As I recall, new fuel rails are rather pricey.
 
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Man that is ugly, almost looks like there could be electrolysis going on in addition to corrosion. When you get it all repaired and back together and working, spray the motor down with Deep Creep. It does a good job of protecting the motor. I learned that from a local Merc. Dealer. They said it was the last thing they do when they are finished working on a motor.

If reducing length a little would not affect function and mounting, could a machine shop mill it off flat to clean metal and clean up the threads etc. if necessary? As I recall, new fuel rails are rather pricey.
It is on the starboard side right next to a bunch of fuses relays and solenoids. It quite possible there was stray current. I never would of found this if I didnt get the rails ultrasonic cleaned. It was completely hidden. So every 3 years i will remove the injectors and rails and get them cleaned it was $500 plus gaskets. many of the gaskets were old and brittle.

as for removing the material would be too expensive. Im going for epoxy sealing the grain and then backfill with the fittings up against the retainer. Pull the fitting in about 3-4 hours. Ill see if I can get it nice. Probably a two part process.
 
Sealed the ends. Next step will be to get the seals first and install hoses and backfill. It's a little tricky so going to wait until the seals are in.

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It was a success the oil broke the bond on the fitting and managed to rebuild it. This may do very little but the main idea is to seal the metal. Now some spray paint after a sand.


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Result is the fitting is restored to proper location so it won't move. Now on the final install oil it up and epoxy the back side and it will completely rebuild it. Then when I pull them in a few years will be 100%.

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