From Rollers to Bunks

[Dencope]

Hey guys, just looking for any advice from anyone who has made this conversion lately. I have a great trailer for my 17.2 Hourston but it has rollers that I don't like.

The reasons are;
I travel a lot on gravel roads and I prefer the larger surface area.
I've previously had bunks with my old boat and never had a problem getting on and off.
The rollers seem to make the boat sit unusually high on the trailer.
The rollers need replacing.

I'm tempted to do it all myself but would also be open to having a shop do it for a reasonable price. Any advice on trailer shop recommendations or materials for this job would be much appreciated. I'm located on Vancouver Island and work in Campbell River so can take anywhere in between.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Dennis

 

[scott craven]

I like roller's myself, they are big help on a steep launch.
you might consider leaving the rear rollers and replacing the fronts with bunks.
Not that complicated, just remove the front yokes entirely and replace with bunk assemblys.

 

[Whole in the Water]

I have a combo rollers on front to help on shallow ramps and bunks on the rear where most of the weight is, came this way from Roadrunner and it works good for me.

 

[gungadin]

I can see a couple of issues converting your trailer to bunks. Your boat overhangs the rear of the trailer by a considerable amount. You may have to move it forward as the bunk may not support the boat properly at the stern ( the weight might cause the board to bend downward). This could be alleviated by the use of a suitable brace however. I would not want the bunk board to extend more then a foot or so past the rear crossmember without a brace, and then only with a 2x6 or better. The bunk board can extend further ahead of the front crossmember as much less of the weight is supported there.

Using bunks would enable the boat to ride lower, providing the sides would not touch the wheel fenders. If you have to move the boat forward on the trailer, you may have to install another roller on the reach to prevent damage to the bow, this might cause the boat to sit stern down however. You may also be able to shorten that section of the reach within the frame as well, I cannot tell from your picture. Moving the boat forward may also put too much weight on the towing hitch, which would mean moving the axle forward. With those lovely running boards, that is something l would be reluctant to do.

If it were me, I would seriously look into what Whole in the Water suggested, bunks in the rear and rollers in the front. The bunks make it almost self aligning when recovering the boat and the rollers allow for easy winching.

 

[gungadin]

Just had a look at Comox Craigslist, the rear rollers might spread the load more.

http://comoxvalley.craigslist.ca/bpo/5771796899.html

 

[scott craven]

Your boat overhangs the rear of the trailer by a considerable amount. You may have to move it forward as the bunk may not support the boat properly at the stern ( the weight might cause the board to bend downward).

By the look of the tongue, you should be able to move the mast forward 6 inches
giving you more room at the rear.

 

[spring fever]

I have a much larger boat than you do but I was faced with your dilemma. My rollers were splitting in a few places and some needed replacing. Couldn't believe the cost!! I took all the rollers off the rear set of rollers and was able to have a fully functional set for the front then I contacted Road runner and got the proper cross pieces and made a set of double bunks for the rear and surfaced them with UHMW(polycarb like cutting board). Probably one of the best trailer mods I've done loads easily and spreads the rear load which is piece of mind with a 300 hp 4 stroke.

 

[bigbruce]

SF are there any abrasion issues with the UHMW against the fibreglass bottom of your boat?

 

[spring fever]

SF are there any abrasion issues with the UHMW against the fibreglass bottom of your boat?

Doesn't appear to be-although I check when ever I launch to make sure any counter sunk SS screws have stayed counter sunk. I can't see where the boat actually sits on the UHMW but forward of that which gets dragged over it looks pristine.

 

[Tidal Chaos]

Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) has extremely low moisture absorption, a very low coefficient of friction, is self lubricating and is highly resistant to abrasion (10 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel). UHMW has the highest impact strength of any thermoplastic

I switched my trailer over to UHMW from carpet on my front cradle as it was hard to unload my boat (12000 lbs)on my own; using UHMW the boat no longer sticks to the front bunks when launching; so once the boat floats free of my rear bunks; she slides easily off and I don't need to bump the boat off by braking; so you need to be some what cautious to how you set your bunks up and whether or not you cover everything with UHMW; I left carpet on the rear bunks so the boat doesn't slide as easily out of the water; UHMW is slick even when dry. I too was worried about it rubbing on my bottom paint and gel coat; but after talking with a rep he assured me it wouldn't do so and to date no issues or evidence.

 

[bigbruce]

Thanks, SF and TC. I like that idea, TC - I have a very deep v boat and loading and unloading can be a real challenge, particularly on a shallow ramp. Putting the UHMW on the front bunks makes a lot of sense. Any advice as to the best place to buy the stuff?

 

[Tidal Chaos]

I have a 30' pursuit so I know your
Issues. I also have an 8 year old for a deck hand that was getting real good at stopping the boat without falling in.

Redwood plastics on the mainland, and industrial plastics as well. Duncan iron works also carries it on the island. I buy it through my work so I don't know if redwood or DIW will sell retail but industrial plastics does. There are different grades and types so talk with whomever you decide to purchase from. I use the black for everything wear based and for the slick factor. You can also call redwood and they may tell you other distributors in your area.

 

[SpringVelocity]

Thanks, SF and TC. I like that idea, TC - I have a very deep v boat and loading and unloading can be a real challenge, particularly on a shallow ramp. Putting the UHMW on the front bunks makes a lot of sense. Any advice as to the best place to buy the stuff?

Bruce this place is the cheapest on the island Plexi-klass in Victoria https://www.google.ca/search?q=plasic+suppler+victoria,bc&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=dAnvV6r4Ec_2jwPboaG4Dw#q=plastic supplier victoria,bc&tbs=lf:1,lf_ui:2,lf_pqs:EAE&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=48443352,-123372476,783&tbm=lcl&rldimm=10482219855134497579.

Industrial and Redwood are way too expensive. For about maybe $10.00 -$20.00 bucks Plexi Klass usually will router down the size you want. I buy a lot of plastic for my business and most of the time they are 10 - 20 % cheaper and better service. They are also very small operation. Duncan Iron Works would be very expensive as your getting it marked up as they have to buy it from supplier.

Good idea BTW TC.

 

[Wireman]

Bruce this place is the cheapest on the island Plexi-klass in Victoria https://www.google.ca/search?q=plasic+suppler+victoria,bc&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=dAnvV6r4Ec_2jwPboaG4Dw#q=plastic supplier victoria,bc&tbs=lf:1,lf_ui:2,lf_pqs:EAE&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=48443352,-123372476,783&tbm=lcl&rldimm=10482219855134497579.

Industrial and Redwood are way too expensive. For about maybe $10.00 -$20.00 bucks Plexi Klass usually will router down the size you want. I buy a lot of plastic for my business and most of the time they are 10 - 20 % cheaper and better service. They are also very small operation. Duncan Iron Works would be very expensive as your getting it marked up as they have to buy it from supplier.

Good idea BTW TC.

he

Bruce this place is the cheapest on the island Plexi-klass in Victoria https://www.google.ca/search?q=plasic+suppler+victoria,bc&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=dAnvV6r4Ec_2jwPboaG4Dw#q=plastic supplier victoria,bc&tbs=lf:1,lf_ui:2,lf_pqs:EAE&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=48443352,-123372476,783&tbm=lcl&rldimm=10482219855134497579.

Industrial and Redwood are way too expensive. For about maybe $10.00 -$20.00 bucks Plexi Klass usually will router down the size you want. I buy a lot of plastic for my business and most of the time they are 10 - 20 % cheaper and better service. They are also very small operation. Duncan Iron Works would be very expensive as your getting it marked up as they have to buy it from supplier.

Good idea BTW TC.

when making new bucks do you use a solid length of uhmv or do you put small pieces on top of your 2x6 material
Cheers

 

[Tidal Chaos]

I used solid length 4' long and 5" wide on my cradle.

 

[pescador]

As to the "cast your vote" question at the top of this thread re going bunk or roller. There should be a third option for "combination bunk and roller".

 

[Wireman]

As to the "cast your vote" question at the top of this thread re going bunk or roller. There should be a third option for "combination bunk and roller".[

I used solid length 4' long and 5" wide on my cradle.

how thick was the material you used?
Cheers

 

[Tidal Chaos]

3/8" black is what I used. It is easily shaped and still has enough thickness to counter sink screws.

 

[Clint r]

I have a combo rollers on front to help on shallow ramps and bunks on the rear where most of the weight is, came this way from Roadrunner and it works good for me.

Mines the same. Rollers up front and bunk boards in the back. Never heard of the manufacturer (Univision) but the combo suits my 17.5" boat well. I've added carpeted side "guide ons" and it's a breeze getting the boat on the trailer.

 

[SpringVelocity]

If you guys do what TC said above 4 foot long its way cheaper. The stock sheets are usually 4' x 8'. Then its just one cut.