Dummy Flasher or Not?

Baxter

Well-Known Member
I have JUST started experiencing with a dummy flasher. Only tried during one short 2 hour fishing session last week.

I tried with a dummy flasher at the cannonball, 8' leader, then about 12' up the downrigger line I clipped in, and used a hootchie and another flasher.

No luck, but not a lot of trial time just yet.

Does anyone else run two flashers this way? Do you just run the dummy flasher with no flasher on your rod? I am guessing that this would depend on the lure as well as my understanding is that a hootchie really needs the flasher on the line for the action, not just the attraction.

So to dummy or not to dummy?

Also on my trials, I found once my clip going out to my lure slid up the downrigger braid, my cannonball was down 200+ but the line from my rod dropped slower and when I reeled it in found it was maybe only 40' down! To get around this problem I assume I should just use some of those clip on scotty stopper beads above where I want my clip?
 
You can attach a dummy line directly to your ball or just above it. I have the bungee shock cord on my balls so my dummy is about 15" above my ball. This also helps if you bottom bounce on occasion as your flasher won't pound into the bottom. My line length from the dummy to the rigger cable is about 30". This will ensure stacking room and allows the flasher to turn and do its thing. I place another dummy 15 - 17' above that and clip my second sport line about 24" above that dummy. You want your sport line as close as you can get it to your dummy. I have found 24" to be just about right. My distance from flasher to lure is 5 - 7' depending on spoons or bait. Plugs need to go below the flasher as they tend to dive down a bit and most people just run them naked. Hootchies I almost always run in line with a flasher so if I dummy my bottom line I will attach an inline hootchie 17 - 20' above the dummy. I almost always fish 4 lines sometimes with two dummies sometimes all four and I'm usually by myself. I really don't have any issues. This is what works for me. Some guys may have a little different way of doing things.
With regard to your clip sliding, it should not be doing that even with braid. Perhaps its a faulty clip or you are miss clipping somehow.
Hope that helps.
 
I run two inline flashers in series about 12"-18" behind the ball and 6" apart with pretty good success last season. We tried it on one side of the boat experimenting then both sides. They defiantly made a difference. I personally like the inline flashers better for dummy less chance of tangles in my experience.
 
The only thing about the kone zone or in line is I'm not sure they make as much sound in the water. A flasher makes a thump as it revolves but the inline's spin rather than rotate. Maybe someone with some commercial experience can attest to this.
 
The only thing about the kone zone or in line is I'm not sure they make as much sound in the water. A flasher makes a thump as it revolves but the inline's spin rather than rotate. Maybe someone with some commercial experience can attest to this.
I like the kone zone & believe they make a different sound than a flasher. IMO it would be impossible to make an accurate scientific comparison. Perhaps a flasher sounds like a feeding Salmon & a kone zone sounds like panicked baitfish??
 
I like the kone zone & believe they make a different sound than a flasher. IMO it would be impossible to make an accurate scientific comparison. Perhaps a flasher sounds like a feeding Salmon & a kone zone sounds like panicked baitfish??
I just especially like that you can't get your bait right on top of it without worrying about snags. I do run a standard setup on the other side though so maybe that helps with long range attraction while the kone zone dials them onto the bait from there.
 
I like the kone zone & believe they make a different sound than a flasher. IMO it would be impossible to make an accurate scientific comparison. Perhaps a flasher sounds like a feeding Salmon & a kone zone sounds like panicked baitfish??
I agree, near impossible to have some sort of exact measurement. As well, they must make some kind of noise as Spin'n'glos and spinners work on that basis as well so their is credence to that. I only have the one kone zone that I purchased when they first came out. I can't believe what they cost now and I'm too cheap to buy any more:). Plenty of flashers though picked up over time.
 
I think @Andrew P who is AP Tackleworks likes to run the dummy flasher quite a bit. Would like to know his perspective and if it's only related to his spoons or others too.
 
I run dummies only when I'm running a spoon, bait, apex, or ross swimmerhead naked w/o a flasher, I do this a lot and I have been using the kone zone more often than not as my dummy over last few years. sockeye obviously are a whole different ball game.
 
Tend not to use dummy flashers except for sockeye fishing but as an example when the Cap is in season I will stack the rods with a whole herring naked on the bottom rod with a flashed spoon above. Alternate side full flash, anchovy (bloody nose), spoon or whatever. Also In my experiences wherever I fish especially Barclay Sound I tend to add a red kone zone direct to the cannon ball which seems to improve my catch. No idea why but works for me and only red.
 
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Red is an interesting colour. Works at all depths but after 40' it basically goes dark, almost black.
 
2-3ft tether on the dummy flasher, with the clip positioned 3-4ft above seems to work well, and isnt super awkward. As long as your clip is 1ft higher than your dummy tether length you shouldnt ever tangle the two together.

Its nice to play a fish without the flasher sometimes
 
2-3ft tether on the dummy flasher, with the clip positioned 3-4ft above seems to work well, and isnt super awkward. As long as your clip is 1ft higher than your dummy tether length you shouldnt ever tangle the two together.

Its nice to play a fish without the flasher sometimes
For me, not sometimes but all the time!
 
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