Downrigger boom length - 30 or 60"?
- Thread starter Time
- Start date
Striper Sniper
Well-Known Member
Hey Time, my thoughts are that the ones you buy now will be with you for a long time. With the extendable booms you can fish them short or extend them if you find yourself in an area with strong currents. I bought the 60" ones myself and often fish them in the shorter length plus, I don't recall that the 60" ones were all that much more. It is always nice to have some flexibility and who knows, you might upgrade the boat to a larger one some day and be able to take the longer boom units with you if you so choose.... The longer version should also be in greater demand if you ever decide to sell them...
SS
SS
scott craven
Well-Known Member
I have one of each, and if i was going to do it again, i would buy
2 x 60" boom downrigger's.
it gives you that more distance between gear, and less chance of
getting tangled in a strong current.
P.S. West marine had the 30" units on for $419.00 yesterday
2 x 60" boom downrigger's.
it gives you that more distance between gear, and less chance of
getting tangled in a strong current.
P.S. West marine had the 30" units on for $419.00 yesterday
Sea Morgan
Member
I have 30", can you exchange the booms?How Much?
scott craven
Well-Known Member
I was quoted $85.00 from Bill at Island Outfitter's
Sushihunter
Active Member
My last boat had 60" booms which I bought. My current boat has 30" booms that came with the boat. I would love to trade them for 60" booms!
One side is fine, but the starboard side is a pain. In certain current conditions the line gets caught behind the prop on the kicker motor, and it is a real pain to un-hook it. That, and I am always worried about nicking the cable and having it break, or not noticing that it is hooked and bringing the ball up and breaking it off.
When I had the long booms, I could turn tight circles and never cross lines - it was great! If possible, get the long booms, it's worth it.
islanderguy
Member
Go for the 60" booms...I just upgraded both of my 30's to 60's this year.
It was about $100 to for the 60" boom upgrade if its a newer (single belt) Scotty.
It was about $100 to for the 60" boom upgrade if its a newer (single belt) Scotty.
Time
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys.
Confirms my plan to go for 60".
It's only an extra 100.00 (for two).
Now, another question or two, if I may.
Do you run your wiring straight from your battery, or?
Will one in line 30 amp fuse be ok for both dr's, or should each have their own?
r.s. It was West that got me motivated.
The 60", if they have any in stock, is only 459, less 10% as a 'new' boat owner.
Hell of a deal I couldn't let slip by.
They also have group 24 dual purpose marine batteries on for 69.00.
Grabbed one of those too.
Confirms my plan to go for 60".
It's only an extra 100.00 (for two).
Now, another question or two, if I may.
Do you run your wiring straight from your battery, or?
Will one in line 30 amp fuse be ok for both dr's, or should each have their own?
r.s. It was West that got me motivated.
The 60", if they have any in stock, is only 459, less 10% as a 'new' boat owner.
Hell of a deal I couldn't let slip by.
They also have group 24 dual purpose marine batteries on for 69.00.
Grabbed one of those too.
scott craven
Well-Known Member
I hope you told your wife you got everthing for just under $200
My rigger's are wired direct to the battery
GLG
Well-Known Member
Time
Keep them separate. Keep fuse a close to the battery as possible within 7 inches recommended. Do not solder the ends. Use the proper marine grade tinned wire.
Use the proper terminal and connectors. Do it once and do it right. You don't want it to fail at the wrong time. If you use the new style plugs you can make a bracket from some scrap aluminum and cut the 1 1/8 inch hole to fit the plug.
You can then mount the bracket to your boat. Did this to my boat and it works great.
If you have any questions or want to see mine PM me. GLG
From the Scotty website
PLEASE READ THROUGH ALL INSTRUCTIONS PRIOR TO
INSTALLATION.
Required for Installation and NOT included with this kit:
• 30 amp fuse with fuse holder
Overcurrent Protection
The wiring between the battery and the receptacle must have proper
overcurrent protection in the form of an inline 30-amp fuse. Position the
overcurrent protection within 7” of the battery.
Wire Gauge
Use good quality marine grade tinned electrical wire to bring power to your
downrigger. To determine the correct gauge of wire, measure the “wire run
length” which is the distance from the positive (+) power source connection,
to your downrigger and back to the negative (-) power source connection.
For wire run lengths up to 25 feet use minimum 12 Ga. wire, for runs of 25
– 40 feet use 10 Ga. wire. Wire smaller than the recommended gauge will
not carry sufficient power to operate your downrigger at its rated speed and
power, it will run noticeably slower.
The downrigger should always be unplugged when not in use.
Receptacle Installation & Wiring
It is important that the receptacle is wired to match how the plug is wired. The
terminals marked “1” and “2” on the receptacle mate with the corresponding
terminals marked “1” and “2” on the plug.
1. Mounting the receptacle requires a 1 1/8” hole to be drilled. Select
a location where the boats structure will not be weakened. Also,
mount on a vertical surface to lessen the amount of water that can
enter the receptacle.
2. Using the template on page 6, mark and drill the required holes.
3. Slide the rubber receptacle boot onto the wire. Strip the wire
insulation back ½” to expose clean bare wire. Do NOT solder the
ends of the wires.
4. Feed the wire from the back, through the 1 1/8” hole. Insert the
negative (-) wire into terminal “1” and the fused positive (+) wire
into terminal “2” and tighten both terminal screws. Make certain
there is no wire insulation inside the terminals, and there are no
stray wire strands outside the terminals. Do not overtighten!
5. Mount the receptacle. Ensure the drain hole is facing down.
6. Push the rubber receptacle boot onto the receptacle from the
backside.
Keep them separate. Keep fuse a close to the battery as possible within 7 inches recommended. Do not solder the ends. Use the proper marine grade tinned wire.
Use the proper terminal and connectors. Do it once and do it right. You don't want it to fail at the wrong time. If you use the new style plugs you can make a bracket from some scrap aluminum and cut the 1 1/8 inch hole to fit the plug.
You can then mount the bracket to your boat. Did this to my boat and it works great.
If you have any questions or want to see mine PM me. GLG
From the Scotty website
PLEASE READ THROUGH ALL INSTRUCTIONS PRIOR TO
INSTALLATION.
Required for Installation and NOT included with this kit:
• 30 amp fuse with fuse holder
Overcurrent Protection
The wiring between the battery and the receptacle must have proper
overcurrent protection in the form of an inline 30-amp fuse. Position the
overcurrent protection within 7” of the battery.
Wire Gauge
Use good quality marine grade tinned electrical wire to bring power to your
downrigger. To determine the correct gauge of wire, measure the “wire run
length” which is the distance from the positive (+) power source connection,
to your downrigger and back to the negative (-) power source connection.
For wire run lengths up to 25 feet use minimum 12 Ga. wire, for runs of 25
– 40 feet use 10 Ga. wire. Wire smaller than the recommended gauge will
not carry sufficient power to operate your downrigger at its rated speed and
power, it will run noticeably slower.
The downrigger should always be unplugged when not in use.
Receptacle Installation & Wiring
It is important that the receptacle is wired to match how the plug is wired. The
terminals marked “1” and “2” on the receptacle mate with the corresponding
terminals marked “1” and “2” on the plug.
1. Mounting the receptacle requires a 1 1/8” hole to be drilled. Select
a location where the boats structure will not be weakened. Also,
mount on a vertical surface to lessen the amount of water that can
enter the receptacle.
2. Using the template on page 6, mark and drill the required holes.
3. Slide the rubber receptacle boot onto the wire. Strip the wire
insulation back ½” to expose clean bare wire. Do NOT solder the
ends of the wires.
4. Feed the wire from the back, through the 1 1/8” hole. Insert the
negative (-) wire into terminal “1” and the fused positive (+) wire
into terminal “2” and tighten both terminal screws. Make certain
there is no wire insulation inside the terminals, and there are no
stray wire strands outside the terminals. Do not overtighten!
5. Mount the receptacle. Ensure the drain hole is facing down.
6. Push the rubber receptacle boot onto the receptacle from the
backside.
So if you get a short, it will be after the fuse.
Sushihunter
Active Member
Be sure to use a 30 Amp fuse for EACH downrigger. Anything less will not stand up.
My last boat came wired with 20 Amp fuses, and I did not know it. It worked fine for a couple of days, then one of them stopped working. Didn't know why. Checked the usual things, wiggled the plug, the wires etc. Nothing worked.
We had just landed a nice Chinook and I was re-rigging one of the rods to get back in the water. My guests, being farmers who had a bit of a mechanical background suggested that we remove the downrigger from the mount and move it to the other side and plug it in to see if it worked there. OK, fine, good idea.
They got the big bolt out and had it off, when the wife of one of them stuck her head out from the cabin and asked "Did you mark that last fish on your license?"
"No." He got up and set the 15# ball on the transom. It rolled off and fell over the side. As it was still attached to the cable, it pulled the downrigger out of the other guys hands and pulled it over the side behind it!
We finished the day by fishing one downrigger with two lines. We caught more Salmon that day than just about any other day last season.
Without me even asking - they bought me a new downrigger when we got back to the dock.
Almost forgot - the whole point of this story. The dealer I bought the boat through had only installed 20 Amp fuses in the downrigger wires! Because of this, a $500 downrigger was lost. For a 50 cent fuse!
My last boat came wired with 20 Amp fuses, and I did not know it. It worked fine for a couple of days, then one of them stopped working. Didn't know why. Checked the usual things, wiggled the plug, the wires etc. Nothing worked.
We had just landed a nice Chinook and I was re-rigging one of the rods to get back in the water. My guests, being farmers who had a bit of a mechanical background suggested that we remove the downrigger from the mount and move it to the other side and plug it in to see if it worked there. OK, fine, good idea.
They got the big bolt out and had it off, when the wife of one of them stuck her head out from the cabin and asked "Did you mark that last fish on your license?"
"No." He got up and set the 15# ball on the transom. It rolled off and fell over the side. As it was still attached to the cable, it pulled the downrigger out of the other guys hands and pulled it over the side behind it!
We finished the day by fishing one downrigger with two lines. We caught more Salmon that day than just about any other day last season.
Without me even asking - they bought me a new downrigger when we got back to the dock.
Almost forgot - the whole point of this story. The dealer I bought the boat through had only installed 20 Amp fuses in the downrigger wires! Because of this, a $500 downrigger was lost. For a 50 cent fuse!
wolf
Well-Known Member
The Scotty have a over ride in them as well so if they get heated up they stop especially hauling in a goo nest of kelp but most of the time the fuse will blow so there you are changing fuses all the time.
I would "never"do it but have seen most of them just wired directly to the battery as that would void the warranty.
In All the years of using these things from day when when you could buy a electric I have burnt out only one motor and they get a ton of use almost scary how much!!!!!!!
They are the best piece of equipment ever made very reliable,tough and last cant say that about too many things these days, best part is they are a local company and we are supporting people here on the island.
Wolf
60" is what I have
I would "never"
do it but have seen most of them just wired directly to the battery as that would void the warranty.In All the years of using these things from day when when you could buy a electric I have burnt out only one motor and they get a ton of use almost scary how much!!!!!!!
They are the best piece of equipment ever made very reliable,tough and last cant say that about too many things these days, best part is they are a local company and we are supporting people here on the island.
Wolf
60" is what I have
GLG
Well-Known Member
I don’t have a manual for the old electric downriggers but if memory servers me the old style plugs needs a 20-amp fuse. I would guess that the new DR’s must have an upgraded motor. If anyone has the old installation manual please check and post. You want the correct fuse and wire size (depending on length from positive post to DR and back to negative post) for the DR you have. If your wire is too small it will heat up and blow the fuse, if you don’t have a fuse then it might heat up and burn the boat. If you ask me 20 bucks worth of wire and fuses is cheap insurance. As my mother use to say, if someone tells you it’s OK to jump off a bridge would you do it? It’s up to you to decide how you outfit your boat. Me, I bring out my wife and child and want to bring them home in one piece. Each of us as boat owners has our passenger’s lives in there hands. Think about where you fish and what would happen if you blew out your electric system.
I learned how to fish for salmon from a good friend and he drilled into me, Pay attention to the details.
GLG
I learned how to fish for salmon from a good friend and he drilled into me, Pay attention to the details.
GLG
wolf
Well-Known Member
OH cmom now how is a downrigger motor going to burn your boat down!!!!!be realistic i think you have more chance of winning the 6/49 then that happening as they have a built it over load swith in them.
And yes all are lodge boats have them hard wired to the battery as fuses are a pain in the you know where we did have fuses to begin but not know so 5 boats out every day for 100 days for the last 12 years not one problem do the math. and not one boat has burnt down.
And yes all are lodge boats have them hard wired to the battery as fuses are a pain in the you know where we did have fuses to begin but not know so 5 boats out every day for 100 days for the last 12 years not one problem do the math. and not one boat has burnt down.
That's why you have to have a little independent redundant electrical system
GLG
Well-Known Member
Wolf
Yea maybe I’m a little strong on the burn the boat, but that would be worst-case scenario.
Yes it’s true that the Scotty DR’s have a built in overload breaker in them. That protects the motor from overheating. What about the wire? If it does short (spark) will it short under the doghouse or near a plastic fuel tank vent? The new Scotty DR recommends a 30-amp fuse. That’s a big fuse. Lot’s of power running through that wire.
Would running the DR’s straight to the battery work? Yes. Is it safe? Maybe not. Would it be a liability issue for a marine mechanic to not put a fuse in? Yes. Would your boat insurance cover a loss if you did not install the system correctly? I don’t know. Would it pass TC inspection? I guess so. Would you point that out to the TC inspector and ask him what he thought?
LC – You bring up a good point and I agree with you 100% on the kicker. I would not venture out there alone without one. How did you rig up your DR’s on your new ride?
GLG
Yea maybe I’m a little strong on the burn the boat, but that would be worst-case scenario.
Yes it’s true that the Scotty DR’s have a built in overload breaker in them. That protects the motor from overheating. What about the wire? If it does short (spark) will it short under the doghouse or near a plastic fuel tank vent? The new Scotty DR recommends a 30-amp fuse. That’s a big fuse. Lot’s of power running through that wire.
Would running the DR’s straight to the battery work? Yes. Is it safe? Maybe not. Would it be a liability issue for a marine mechanic to not put a fuse in? Yes. Would your boat insurance cover a loss if you did not install the system correctly? I don’t know. Would it pass TC inspection? I guess so. Would you point that out to the TC inspector and ask him what he thought?
LC – You bring up a good point and I agree with you 100% on the kicker. I would not venture out there alone without one. How did you rig up your DR’s on your new ride?
GLG
I rigged the downriggers to a seperate waterproof switch/fuse panel mounted on my aft bulkhead. I do NOT think it's a good idea to put anything on the batteries, just because I'm a little fussy about wiring.
I have a third battery with a charging relay that is usually isolated unless battery 3 is down. HOWEVER, if my electrical system goes up in smoke, it will start motors and run electronics and pumps, as well as be isolated from the rest of the boat. This originally started as a way to not have all my electronics scream at me when I started the boat, but it evolved into backup power. I have all wiring terminated to bus bars instead of stacking 30 ring terminals on the batteries, and the battery switches, so I can just pop any problem circuit off with ease.
The TC inspection doesn't actually cover much more then pumps (That you have them, not that they work well or anything), downflooding openings, thru hulls, gunwale height. and safety gear. So long as he can't poke his thumb through your hull anywhere that he chooses to look at, you are good to go.
Yep, that's right, you could wire your whole boat with the old speaker wire you got from the '85 Whitesnake tour you rodied for. As long as it's not visibly smoking when he looks at it, you are just fine.
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