Bottom Painting Fibreglass boat first time

[pescador]

So I’m thinking about bottom painting my boat for the first time. Done all sorts of research and find it so complicated, I’m more confused than ever. Ablative, hard, soft, copper, low cost, high cost, get in the water within 3 hours, apply when sticky, sand with 60 grit, clean with acetone, clean with soap. It’s just insane. YouTube for the first time isn’t providing a simple solution. A couple of questions for those that do it regularly.
1. Can I do it myself?
2. What’s the benefit to have a pro do it?
3. For a 20 year old Fibreglass hull that’s never been painted and in good shape, what’s the pre-prep process?
4. What is the best overall paint brand/type for keeping it in Vancouver waters?
5. I understand it’s a 2 step process normally. What is the best 2 step process again for Vancouver waters?
6. What’s the best treatment for trim tabs that are stainless and bronze thru-hulls? I understand you have to use different paint of metals than glass.
7. What tools do I need. IE small/large roller x of, multiple brushes, masking tape, what else?
8. Do I need to put larger zincs now on the boat when I keep in water for months at a time?
9. What’s approx cost to do myself versus a pro? I’m 23 ft long.

 

[ship happens]

Sand
Wipe
Barrier coat
Read for recoat time. (Cant remember)
Read for application of micron csc time
Apply CSC
Wait 16 hours or less depending on temp
Recoat CSC
Wait 16 hours
Put in water

Tip if your doing it yourself. Once you roll a coat on, don't go back 5 min later and try and roll it again if you think you missed a spot. You get one shot. If you want pretty paint

Same for trim tabs
Don't need to paint bronze imo

Simple
Not very fun
Hire a pro

Bronze and copper are pals

Need zincs on trim tabs

 

[Ringo]

I would hire a pro. Not worth the time and hassle IMO unless you have a ton of time on your hand.

 

[ab1752]

Pro, it is a total hassle and if it ends up looking like ****, scraping if off again is a total PITA. Those materials are not inexpensive either, so you don't want to butcher the job.

 

[pescador]

Ok, sounds like something I don't want to do. thanks guys...

 

[Corey_lax]

The "pro's" in north van dropped my buddies boat off the blocks causing $10,000 in damage. Something to keep in mind.

 

[ship happens]

Well you could take it to the best guy I've ever seen in the bottom paint world in Delta. Along with the master travel lift operator Steve. Mind you he is not cheap. However you also get what you pay for in the end. I can pass his number along if you wish

 

[Tinny]

I've used Aloha Marine Services for bottoming painting a never before painted used Grady brought up from the US. Was very happy with the service.

They did the work at Lions Gate Marina, but I would never use that Marina again. Nickel and dime you to death.

 

[Foxsea]

So I’m thinking about bottom painting my boat for the first time. Done all sorts of research and find it so complicated, I’m more confused than ever. Ablative, hard, soft, copper, low cost, high cost, get in the water within 3 hours, apply when sticky, sand with 60 grit, clean with acetone, clean with soap. It’s just insane. YouTube for the first time isn’t providing a simple solution. A couple of questions for those that do it regularly.
1. Can I do it myself?
2. What’s the benefit to have a pro do it?
3. For a 20 year old Fibreglass hull that’s never been painted and in good shape, what’s the pre-prep process?
4. What is the best overall paint brand/type for keeping it in Vancouver waters?
5. I understand it’s a 2 step process normally. What is the best 2 step process again for Vancouver waters?
6. What’s the best treatment for trim tabs that are stainless and bronze thru-hulls? I understand you have to use different paint of metals than glass.
7. What tools do I need. IE small/large roller x of, multiple brushes, masking tape, what else?
8. Do I need to put larger zincs now on the boat when I keep in water for months at a time?
9. What’s approx cost to do myself versus a pro? I’m 23 ft long.

For this job, the "pro" is the newest hire in the yard. You will have zero issues doing this yourself. The only time I'd recommend a yard is for big boats with the Micron applied by spray gun.

Clean the hull really well with a degreaser, then rinse. I wipe down after using methyl hydrate and lots of paper towel. Let dry.

Forget sanding - use the Interprotect primer coat. Read twice and then follow all the directions and you'll be fine. Honestly, it's very user-friendly and tough to mess up this system. This is what I've used in the past and will use again, soon.

https://international-yachtpaint.com/s3/documents/TDS/Micron_CSC_eng_usa_A4_20211230.pdf?

I refuse to paint tabs, transducer, drive, etc. Smear on Penantene or similar and avoid lots of other potential issues. Keep the paint 1" away from aluminum (with tape), eg. sterndrive. If you have painted a bedroom this is as easy to do and you will already know what you need. Remember this is toxic stuff so PPE, cover up and wash afterward. Throw the roller sleeves and brushes out when you are done. Use the best masking tape so the paint doesn't bleed under. Once more, read and follow the directions. You'll need to shift your shoring to get at the spots the pads covered. Do any other touch-ups at this time. I would wait 2 or 3 days before reloading your boat on the trailer.

 

[Rayvon]

Can't agree with not sanding,but I'm old school.

 

[ship happens]

Yeah I'm sure if you softened the gel coat you don't need to sand with interprotect. However some people have their own way of doing things. I just send the stuff to the old boys who have been doing it for a half a century and don't ask questions. Bottom painting sucks and I want nothing to do with it. However I'll maintain my own boats. That's where I draw the line.

 

[ab1752]

The MSDS on CSC-CA says all good for aluminum, now that Trilux is gone in Canada, I was very wary. They managed to find the last bits of trilux black and white to make VP grey for ours, one last time....so no test mule here, at least not this season.

BTW I used Propspeed on the new B175HW through hull I installed last season and that stuff worked great.

 

[ship happens]

Yeah with 6 coast of interprotect you can put whatever you want on there lol

 

[ab1752]

Yeah with 6 coast of interprotect you can put whatever you want on there lol

Totally...thing probably weighs an extra 40 lbs by now.

 

[wdlfbio]

Nobody ever WANTS to do bottom. They do it because they don’t want to spend the money or because someone is paying them enough to do it.

Sand, 1-2 barrier coats, 2-3 coats of paint. The barrier coats and painting are easy. It’s all about prep. Don’t forget to move the boat on the stands so you can paint that area too. Better if you can hang her too.

 

[Foxsea]

Yeah I'm sure if you softened the gel coat you don't need to sand with interprotect. However some people have their own way of doing things. I just send the stuff to the old boys who have been doing it for a half a century and don't ask questions. Bottom painting sucks and I want nothing to do with it. However I'll maintain my own boats. That's where I draw the line.

Now you are making sh*t up, it happens:

I'm sure if you softened the gel coat you don't need to sand with interprotect

... but that's what you types do. Interprotect is an epoxy primer. It sticks like epoxy. The chemistry compliments the bond with Micron. Being an ablative coating, that's a challenge. "Apply Micron while the Interprotect coating is still tacky and reactive." Of course you will know better than the chemists from the $billion International Paint Corporation. Go ahead and sand, pound sand or do whatever else you types do.

Reading the literature, you need several coats for osmotic bottoms only. I suggest you types should read, as well. And being an "old boy" myself, I still attempt to keep up with "new"ish technology:

the old boys who have been doing it for a half a century

 

[ship happens]

Now you are making sh*t up, it happens:

... but that's what you types do. Interprotect is an epoxy primer. It sticks like epoxy. The chemistry compliments the bond with Micron. Being an ablative coating, that's a challenge. "Apply Micron while the Interprotect coating is still tacky and reactive." Of course you will know better than the chemists from the $billion International Paint Corporation. Go ahead and sand, pound sand or do whatever else you types do.

Reading the literature, you need several coats for osmotic bottoms only. I suggest you types should read, as well. And being an "old boy" myself, I still attempt to keep up with "new"ish technology:

I don't make any thing up. Thinking outloud with the boys here

Hey there foxy, I'd tune it down a notch there bud.

 

[Foxsea]

The MSDS on CSC-CA says all good for aluminum, now that Trilux is gone in Canada, I was very wary. They managed to find the last bits of trilux black and white to make VP grey for ours, one last time....so no test mule here, at least not this season.

BTW I used Propspeed on the new B175HW through hull I installed last season and that stuff worked great.

Wrong! Do NOT use CSC on aluminum. It carries 40% copper. Why use a MSDS sheet?

For aluminum, use ONLY Micron CF.

Micron CSC suitable substrates are:
GRP / FRP
Lead
Steel
Wood
Bronze / Stainless Steel

 

[Foxsea]

I don't make any thing up. Thinking outlook with the boys here

Hey there foxy, I'd tune it down a notch there bud.

Hey there, ship happens, just stay with the facts and my tone (to you) will improve. People are rarely interested in 2 things, one being an ill-informed opinion. Everyone has one. The other, everyone has one of those, as well.

 

[ship happens]

Hey there, ship happens, just stay with the facts and my tone (to you) will improve. People are rarely interested in 2 things, one being an ill-informed opinion. Everyone has one. The other, everyone has one of those, as well.

You should listen to yourself