Bearing buddies question

TGofers

Member
i have two bearings per wheel. One in the front and one deep in the back of the drum. Do bearing buddies get both bearings or just the front one?
 
I would not count on the bearing Buddy at all, it's messy but easy to do so pull them a part and load them up by hand ever year.
 
Bearing buddies (brand name) work fine and lubricate both the inside and outsde bearing. The small spring inside the cap keeps a small amount of pressure on the grease, providing you have sufficient grease within the hub. More important is the inside hubseal and the surface it runs on. Use of a stainless speedi- sleeve and a double lip seal will go a long way to preventing water intrusion. You need to grease the hubs when you arrive at the launch site after a long run, if you don't there is the possibility that the cold water cooling off the hub may cause a low pressure area inside the hub and draw water past the seal.
 
I think the only way grease gets to the back bearing from a bearing buddy installed on the outside of the hub is if you pump in enough grease to fill the cavity between the front and back bearings. I had this same question and that's the conclusion I came to.
 
They usually don't get the back bearing with much reliability. This causes a false security issue, making the person think that the bearing are properly greased when in fact they could be almost dry. Bearing buddies are good to keep some grease in the hub, but I wouldn't rely totally on them. You still need to repack the inner and outer bearing at least yearly, or more often if you are trailering lots during the year. It's good insurance to take a look at the bearings once a year at least, just in case something is starting to go bad. Can save a horrible breakdown on the side of the road, and more importantly get you out fishing instead of waiting for a tow truck or repair guy to show up.
 
I had trailers with Bearing Buddy system on them for a long time.

Usually it's the rear seal and bearing that go first.Water gets in back there but you look at the front and it all looks ok.

If water stays in there for awhile the grease will turn a different puky color.

Thing is...you don't want to keep pumping the unit full of grease in attempt to "block" all water out. If it's overloaded with grease you can heat up your bearings too quick.

I used to take mine apart annually and sometimes twice a year. It's not complicated but it can be messy.

I used the high pressure"waterproof" axle grease as opposed to the generic variety.

There are a couple of kinds of grease and you can't mix and match them...it's either one or the other. I think it's the "moly" you can't mix with others.

The rear seals are the weak point on the grease-type axle housings.

I've had where the rear bearing is completely eaten out rotted and kaput (because of the leaking seal) and yet the front was perfect.


You can replace the rear seals...pretty easy if you know what you're doing.

I used to take the wheel off and then take the entire housing off...and then clean everything and repack the bearings and then before putting the Bearing buddy back on, put grease in the cavity by hand so that everything is lubed well but not overpacked. Then put the BB back on and give it a few shots of grease to top it up.

If you have a leaking rear seal all this will be for nought, as a couple of times launching and then there's water in there again.

I put the wheel back on and then then tighten it up the adjuster nut so the wheel moves freely but as little side play as I could get away with and then put the cotterpin back in and splay the ends of the pin out so it can't move or fall out.
 
I have been using the blue synthetic greese from Lordco I think its castrol and it seems to hold up really well and it's not that expensive
 
Buddy bearings are not intended to keep the rear bearings greased. The rear bearing is protected from water intrusion by the seal. The front of the hub has no seal and is where water can enter. The bubbly bearing is really nothing more than a grease under pressure front seal that keeps water out of the front bearing. And yes both bearings need to be cleaned and re- packed with fresh grease periodically.
 
What do use to clean the old grease out of the bearings before repacking,if you don't mind me asking?
 
Solvent and a soft brush in a solvent tank is best
 
If you have not done it before clean then inspect the bearing. You will be looking at any of the hard surfacing that has been removed. You will see darker lines or spots on the bearing. I have always use the rule of I can feel a ridge with my finger nail I replace it. When you are doing the job also check the races in the hub there will be a inner and outer again looking for wear that has damaged the hard surfacing. Once everything is good to go repack with greese. When I start a job I have never done before I will check on youtube there is a lot of great helpful videos.
 
Lots of good advice by the others. Bottom line is spend a little time regularly on your bearings. Otherwise guaranteed you will be spend way more time and money when the trailer breaks down, often in the worst places!
 
As i understood the spring in the buddy forces grease to the rear bearing and out the rear seal ,as bearing and hub warm in use due to friction the grease looses viscosity to somthing like cold 90 weigth and flows to lube rear bearing and seal, putting grease in buddy will help before you launch to pevent water incomming to hub ,on retriveing and greasing,it is a little harder as the grease has cooled and a little harder to flow.if you don't have grease outside of rear seal building up and buddy is not getting lower then theres a malfuntion with the buddy.
 
e-z lube spindles are the way to go if you want to get good grease flow to the front and rear bearings. otherwise prob a good idea as has been mentioned to repack bearings yearly... and replace seals at the same time...
 
Back
Top