Autopilot Hydraulics

eriks

Active Member
I'm going to be installing a Garmin autopilot this spring. I'm supposed to install a Tee fitting into the lines between the helm and the ram, and then connect the pump to the Tee with another line.
Does anyone know if I can just connect a Tee directly to the pump, then connect the helm to it and the ram, or does there need to be a hose from the pump to the Tee?
I could save on a pair of hoses this way, and it would be tidier.
 
Yes, I did exactly that. Note that you might want to take your pump over to an industrial hose place and get them to make up the tee for you. There are different types of fittings and it's likely that you'll need a few adapters.
 
So I installed the AP and started the bleed process. Since the pump is lower than the Seastar helm, I bled it, then the helm pump. I've gone back to bleeding the pump to get rid of the small bubbles the next day. Every time I bleed the pump, I seem to get a few more small bubbles. Doesn't appear to be leaking at any connections though, so I don't think air is entering from a leaking fitting.
The problem is that when I jog the motor hardover, and the pump stalls, the motor gets stuck there, and the pump can't bring the motor back over to the other side without me helping it get out of the lock it seems to be in. I also hear a sound in the helm like a solenoid closing/pressure building, just before the pump stalls.
I'm hoping someone here can tell me if there's still probably air in the system, as I really think that the pump should be able to move the engine after it stalls. Maybe I should just take the boat in to get it power bled.
 
You might want to check the service manual for the particular pump/ram system that you have. Mine recommended after topping up the fluid again that you crack open a bleeder valve at the ram and turn the wheel full left 40x and then full right 40x. Mine is a dual station that has a pressure chamber with a schrader valve.

I take it yours is a single station. Did you follow this process: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=1088

Another quick thing -- initially when commissioning my system, my AP computer told me that the pump failed the commissioning test. It would turn the rudders only one direction but not the other. What I did was remove the AP computer and applied DC power directly to the pump and made it move fully one direction, then reversed the power and made it move fully to the other side and did that a couple times. Hooked it back up again and everything ran perfect and it passed the test. It was like the pump mechanism was stuck and once it ran directly a few times it fixed itself.
 
Thx again TenMile! In all my reading about this, some people say that their systems are easy to bleed, and they just have to move the engine both ways 20-30 times and they're done. I'll try this out, with the dual station (helm and AP) single cylinder method. Problem is that I've been doing this alone, but my son will be back on Sunday, so I can try do this again with him.
I'll let you know how it goes.
thx again
 
As a last resort most shops have a power bleeder which works quickly and purges all air by simply hooking it up to the system. It pumps fluid through the entie system and pushes any air into compartment where it bleeds off.
 
Thx for the help fellas. Unfortunately I just couldn't get it right. My boat is going into Haruna in a couple weeks for an enclosure, and I'll get them to power bleed the system.
I had lots of fun installing the AP myself, but just spent too much time trying to bleed it.
 
So I took it into the shop, and they power purged it. There still is a problem, no air in system but there still is sloppage at the engine (it can be moved without the helm moving). The shop thinks that the problem is in the pump, I'm not so sure.
I haven't put in the shutoff valves to the new pump, so it cannot be isolated. I did initially connect the new return line to the top fitting at the back of the helm and I ran the pump. It took a short while before I realized the mistake, and I then placed it in the correct outlet at the bottom of the helm. The helm was also making some strange sounds at times when I was trying to bleed it - sounded like a solenoid closing. I'm thinking that maybe I've damaged a valve or something in the helm?
Anyone know of a Seastar expert in the lower mainland that I could send the boat to?
 
Either air still in system or a leak somewhere. The helm will make a noise when it there is too much resistance to move the engines.
 
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