23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

What to do?

  • Try and keep the boat and complete the project.

    Votes: 71 71.0%
  • Sell the boat in current hot market.

    Votes: 8 8.0%
  • Notch the transom for outboard.

    Votes: 5 5.0%
  • Add extension bracket for outboard.

    Votes: 57 57.0%
  • Install twin outboards.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Install single outboard.

    Votes: 27 27.0%
  • Add command bridge.

    Votes: 15 15.0%
  • Remove command bridge.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 29 29.0%
  • Do not accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 16 16.0%

  • Total voters
    100
Thank you, FYI - I reached out to Rob and the 23'er and 26'er molds were shipped to China a while ago, poopy, I had big plans :(
I don't imagine he had any details on who the purchaser was did he? I'm curious what the future holds for them. Although trying to replicate a Hourston hull offshore probably won't work out if they plan to cheap out on fiberglass and stringer reinforcement. The weight of those boats plays an integral role in their success.
 
I don't imagine he had any details on who the purchaser was did he? I'm curious what the future holds for them. Although trying to replicate a Hourston hull offshore probably won't work out if they plan to cheap out on fiberglass and stringer reinforcement. The weight of those boats plays an integral role in their success.

No sorry :(
 
Got the front V berth bulkheads scribed today, I increased the door opening a bit, I didn't like the tight squeeze... Also thinking on doing a 8'-12" extension on the dash so I have more space to mount stuff.

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Got the front V berth bulkheads scribed today, I increased the door opening a bit, I didn't like the tight squeeze... Also thinking on doing a 8'-12" extension on the dash so I have more space to mount stuff.

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You have one of the all-time best "self isolation" projects. You're an inspiration to boat DIY'ers, Robert! Not sure what that width actually is, but certainly looks more than wide enough. Wider, I think than on my Striper. I think my boat has the opening skewed more towards the port side, though, leaving more room for the controls. With your floor arrangement, you might not be able to do that.
 
You have one of the all-time best "self isolation" projects. You're an inspiration to boat DIY'ers, Robert! Not sure what that width actually is, but certainly looks more than wide enough. Wider, I think than on my Striper. I think my boat has the opening skewed more towards the port side, though, leaving more room for the controls. With your floor arrangement, you might not be able to do that.

Hey sir, thank you sooo much!

the v-berth was lacking in both light and ventalation so hopefully I remedied that.

I am thinking on rebuilding the dash configuration on both port and starboard so I’ll see how things transpire....

On another note - I am receiving an overwhelming amount of interest to do similar work for others, not sure how to proceed with this opportunity .... hummm??
 
Hey sir, thank you sooo much!

the v-berth was lacking in both light and ventalation so hopefully I remedied that.

I am thinking on rebuilding the dash configuration on both port and starboard so I’ll see how things transpire....

On another note - I am receiving an overwhelming amount of interest to do similar work for others, not sure how to proceed with this opportunity .... hummm??
You should proceed on an hourly basis lol.
 
Advise from a retired shipwright.put some foam between the bulkhead and hull side to avoid print through when the fiberglass cures and sucks the ply tight to the hull side.Seen it many times.
 
Advise from a retired shipwright.put some foam between the bulkhead and hull side to avoid print through when the fiberglass cures and sucks the ply tight to the hull side.Seen it many times.

Sorry, I don’t understand what the foam will accomplish, please explain. Thank you

I epoxy all the bulkheads in place first then, after cured, I use poly fillet, after that is cured I tab to minimize shrinkage... ( 3 step process)

5:30pm I think I understand what you are describing, I fit the bulkheads relatively loose as not to create “hard sport”.... thank you
 
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The foam between the bulkhead and hull side allows the plywood edge to be sucked in tight without transferring the imprint to the outside of the hull.
 
The foam between the bulkhead and hull side allows the plywood edge to be sucked in tight without transferring the imprint to the outside of the hull.

I kinda get it but what’s to stop the tabbing and fibreglass laminations from sucking in the hull and causing distress/print through?
 
A bit of wax will do wonders...
Now that your at home, as most of us seam to be, this should mean we will be seeing more of your awesome work. This is all we got man keep this coming. Love this and threads like this. Learn so much and get to see the real ability of forum members. Amazing tread and job. Thanks RS.

I was actually thinking of adding a pod to my DE with outboards and well transom??

HM
 
Hey buddy thank you, I thought I was going to be allot slower atm but thank God I am still working, I have 3 projects confirmed so really really praying this virus doesn’t slow me down....
 
Floor is all resined up with 2 good coats and ready to do glasswork in the morning...

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Now that your at home, as most of us seam to be, this should mean we will be seeing more of your awesome work. This is all we got man keep this coming. Love this and threads like this. Learn so much and get to see the real ability of forum members. Amazing tread and job. Thanks RS.

I was actually thinking of adding a pod to my DE with outboards and well transom??

HM

If you need any help or assistance, I will, for sure, do what I can to help you out... PM to text 4038967504
 
washboards are starting to take shape...

IMG_8435.jpeg IMG_2981.jpeg
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