23' & 26' Hourston Project Commenced...

What to do?

  • Try and keep the boat and complete the project.

    Votes: 71 71.0%
  • Sell the boat in current hot market.

    Votes: 8 8.0%
  • Notch the transom for outboard.

    Votes: 5 5.0%
  • Add extension bracket for outboard.

    Votes: 57 57.0%
  • Install twin outboards.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Install single outboard.

    Votes: 27 27.0%
  • Add command bridge.

    Votes: 15 15.0%
  • Remove command bridge.

    Votes: 42 42.0%
  • Accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 29 29.0%
  • Do not accept "crowd funding"

    Votes: 16 16.0%

  • Total voters
    100
Hi Robert,
First off, great pictures and authoring. I did my hourston 23 last winter and generally did everything the same way you have. For the floor, I did not use any fasteners, just thickened epoxy and a lot of concrete blocks during curing. Was skeptical trying this method, but worked out great.

hey, I’m glad to hear that another method worked just as well. I done much contemplating on how I was going to approach fastening the floor. I do like the mechanical bond of a screw going through the 3/4” plywood and into the multiple laminated layers on top of each stringer and into each solid engineered stringer by 1 3/4” as well as the bonding strength the NMN will have. With this method I have chosen it will give me multi layers as attachment points starting at floor substrate and penetrating deep into the stringer.

The NMN had great test results and it performs as a sealant so no worries of moisture. I used ceramic coated, dura-grip, screws to give maximum hold and corrosion protection. I spaced screw pattern @ 3” oc x 2 1/2” screw length... also I resined and glassed the underside of each floor panel with cm for additional strength and moisture protection rather than resin only.
 
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Just an update to my fibreglass schedule...

Keel schedule w/6" overlap
- embedded in epoxy (West System)
- thickened poly resin fillet with 1/2 cm fibres and tabbed in with 1oz cm
- 1oz cm wrap the keel (starter layer)
- 3 x 1708 wrap the keel
- 1oz cm wrap the keel (finish layer)

4" Stringer schedule w/6" overlap
- embedded in epoxy (West System)
- thickened poly resin fillet with 1/2 cm fibres and tabbed in with 1oz cm 4"
- 1oz cm wrap the stringer (starter layer) 24"
- 2 x 1708 angled tabbing strips (stringer to hull) 5" & 8"
- 1708 wrap the stringer 12 "
- 1oz cm wrap the stringer (finish layer) 14"

10" Stringer schedule w/6" overlap
- embedded in epoxy (West System)
- thickened poly resin fillet with 1/2 cm fibres and tabbed in with 1oz cm 4"
- 1oz cm wrap the stringer (starter layer) 36"
- 2 x 1708 angled tabbing strips (stringer to hull) 8" & 10"
- 1708 wrap the stringer 26 "
- 1oz cm wrap the stringer (finish layer) 30"

Transom
- 3 x 3/4" marine plywood laminated with thickened epoxy (West System)
- thickened poly resin fillet with 1/2 cm fibres and tabbed in with 1oz cm 4"
- 1st layer 1oz cm
- 4 x 1708
- transom tabbed to hull with roven & 1oz cm combo (3 x roven, 4 x cm)

Hull Stiffeners
- 4" pvc drain pipe cut in half
- heat gun used to form to hull
- hot patch with 1oz cm
- lamination cm, 1708, 1708, roven

Floor Tabbing Main Deck
-4" cm 1oz
-6" roving 24oz
-8" cm 1oz
-10" rovin 24oz
-8" cm 10z

Step-down Floor Tabbing
-2" cm 1oz
-4" roving 24oz
-6" cm 1oz
-8" rovin 24oz
-10" cm 10z

Floor Surface (main deck 2 x CM)
-3/4" good one side pine plywood ACX
-thickened poly resin with (1/2" fibres, profill, anti-sag) for fillet and in-fill
-on underside of floor penetrating coat of poly resin then 1oz cm
-topside resin coated for penetration
-layer of 1oz cm
-layer of 1708 over fuel tank for addition strength and support
-layer of 1oz cm (final)

Step-down Floor Surface (cabin)
-3/4" good one side pine plywood ACX
-thickened poly resin with (1/2" fibres, profill, anti-sag) for fillet and in-fill
-on underside of floor penetrating coat of poly resin then 1oz cm
-topside resin coated for penetration
-layer of 1oz cm
-Layer of 1708
-Layer of 1oz cm (final)
 
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Don’t you think that the torque from the automobile engine in your boat now has a big effect on how it gets on plane? Not to mention the correct prop combo and duo-prop system? You don’t get that type of twist from an outboard. (Yet)

Of course, and the f5s dropped more torque than the f3s, with the f5s being over propped for that hull of ours. Point being the Suzuki 350 is a duo prop outboard so perhaps that this would sweeten the deal even more. That's yet to be determined and purely conjecture however.
 
Robert Snyder, what is your background? That is some seriously detailed boat construction you are doing. You are fussy as well!
 
Robert Snyder, what is your background? That is some seriously detailed boat construction you are doing. You are fussy as well!

@ Aquaholic Hummm, not sure how to answer that question without a long drawn out boring recap of the last 49 years :D

I will say that it is true that I am very detailed and quality oriented, I believe and was taught "if something is worth doing its worth doing right", that being said I source out like-minded ppl and research the death out of what ever I set my mind to. I do not cower under stress or challenges, just the opposite! ... and yes I am extremely fussy, which is one of my pitfalls! LOL

The main purpose of this thread is to learn from others and to pass on experiences and knowledge so others will not be intimidated to do something similar. :cool:
 
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I would love to hear the boring recap of life experiences from you, Reeltime, Wolf, Reel Slim Rain City , The Jackel and many others on this forum that have exceptional skills. Maybe a new Thread?

Add Chasin Dreems, Ironnoggin
 
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Wish this post was around when I redid my dads Malibu 175. I’m a metal man, not that good with working with wood and fiberglass but I learned fast when I did the Malibu. Still couldn’t get me to buy a fiberglass boat though. Haha. I like being able to weld on my boat if I need too. I still recognize good craftsmanship when I see it though. Awesome work.
 
Hey, just a few pics of the fuel tank that's now installed, 2x coats of coal tar epoxy..

When I brought the tank back to the fab shop for the 2nd siphon and 3rd aux port :) by popular request! lol I got some tabs welded on the sides, directly over each baffle location, for attachment points (10 brackets in total). I used 3/8 x 1 1/2" SS leg bolts with 3M 5200 as a sealant... I also applied a couple of coats of gelcoat on the underside of coffin lid for added protection :)

IMG_8637.jpeg IMG_8638.jpeg IMG_8661.jpeg
 
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Hey, here is a cross section look at the glass lay-up on the pvc hull support, its about 1/4" think and makes a world of difference to increasing freeboard stiffness... :eek:

IMG_8663.jpeg
 
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Squirrel...! haha

Out west snowshoeing yesterday -20 but still a great day.

IMG_8630.jpeg
 
Got the step-down floor laminated yesterday and just applied the sacrificial coat of waxed gel-coat as a sealer for sanding and fairing :) You can see the 1708 overlap and the markers I used to align as prep.

... again 2 layers of chop with 1708 in-between, built proof!

IMG_8713.jpeg IMG_8721.jpeg
 
What’s your finished floor plan @Robert Snyder ?
Apologies if I missed it.

Not too sure atm, everything is as per original as possible for now. It can be made into an Island runner, cruiser or fishing platform :) Until then I will keep on keeping on, with my plan to use as a family friendly boat...
 
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