1997 115hp Oceanfront high speed stall

[jaymasta]

Motor is a 1997 Evinrude 115hp ocean pro, I get this high speed stall on my motor every now and then, in the video the motor keeps running but often it fully stalls, and then sometimes hard to start or won’t start at all for a few minutes, sometimes it starts and will just keep stalling and sometimes it fires back up and runs fine for up to 20minutes or do. Since this started happening, I’ve replaced the spark plugs, all the external fuel lines and bulbs, the fuel/water separator, the fuel bulbs both stay hard the entire time. I’ve checked the resistance on the coils and wires and they are all the same. The power pack was replaced 2 years ago. The compression is 110-115 on all 4 cylinders. The motor charges the batteries when running. I am ready to take it to a marine mechanic. My first question is there any other things that I can check over or look at myself before I take the plunge and take it to a mechanic? Second question is a recommendation on a marine mechanic for this vintage of outboard?
thanks

1997 Evinrude 115hp high speed stall

youtube.com

 

[noluck]

the ignition is cutting out, look for a chafed wire

 

[Original]

Fuel line collapsing. Easy to put a portable tank in and see if it won’t stall.
2nd find that electrical gremlin.

 

[Rayc]

I had a corroded anti siphon valve on an older boat and once I hit wot the valve would close and cut off fuel to the motor, not sure if there is one on your boat but might be something to look at.

 

[jaymasta]

Fuel line collapsing. Easy to put a portable tank in and see if it won’t stall.
2nd find that electrical gremlin.

Tried this already, unless it’s a fuel line on the inside of the cowling

 

[ship happens]

Could be the optical sensor. Def seems like ignition related. Usually when you experience problems with those ignition parts you change the whole works. CDI and optical sensor. Then you have to reset the idle speed and WOT timing

I agree on the anti siphon valve. Punch the ball and spring out

 

[Fishin]

Very interesting, I’m havin an identical issue on my 2004 115 Yamaha 4 stroke I know it’s a completely different motor all together just caught my attention as nobody’s been able to figure my motor
Out been too 2 different shops and racked up a $1500 bill each time, still having the same issue, sorry I couldn’t be much help. Easiest thing is to try a new tank and line.

 

[Dragos]

Not sure if the motor is injected or carburated. If it’s fuel injected is it possible that the fuel in the hi press pump gets to hot and transforms into vapours before hitting the injectors ? Again , I know nothing about your motor but if it’s got a “fuel cell” that should be cooled down to avoid overheating. I would look into blockage of the cooling hoses going into your fuel cell

 

[Blueback]

Had a similar problem on my old 75hp Mariner. I thought it was fuel at first so swapped tanks and fuel lines; nope. Checked/changed all internal fuel lines; nope. Rebuilt the fuel pump/diaphragm; nope. Finally noticed a corroded wire that was hard to see and replaced it. Viola!

 

[ship happens]

That is a 60 degree looper engine with carb per cylinder and optical ignition. The ignition packs do fail once and a while and the optical sensors can fail as well. Giving intermitton issues such as that.

Thos have what's called an optical sensor, which is essentially an infrared led that has a timing wheel in between it. It reads the infrared signal from one side of the sensor to the other side of the sensor through notches in the timing wheel that spins with the flywheel. This is a very precise and accurate timing sensor when it works lol. I always replace those along with the pack.


Those also have the VRO fuel pump. Which pil side should be bypassed. Also those pumps can fail. They have a large diagram. Good pumps but def can fail. To diagnose if its the fuel pump, get the engine to malfunction and pump the primer bulb.

 

[jaymasta]

That is a 60 degree looper engine with carb per cylinder and optical ignition. The ignition packs do fail once and a while and the optical sensors can fail as well. Giving intermitton issues such as that.

Thos have what's called an optical sensor, which is essentially an infrared led that has a timing wheel in between it. It reads the infrared signal from one side of the sensor to the other side of the sensor through notches in the timing wheel that spins with the flywheel. This is a very precise and accurate timing sensor when it works lol. I always replace those along with the pack.


Those also have the VRO fuel pump. Which pil side should be bypassed. Also those pumps can fail. They have a large diagram. Good pumps but def can fail. To diagnose if its the fuel pump, get the engine to malfunction and pump the primer bulb.

I’ve tried pumping the ball while it is losing power and it does absolutely nothing, I might go ahead and replace the optical sensor and possibly the coils as those aren’t to pricey vs taking it to a mechanic. (I’ve hear Fishins story to many times where people have brought these older 2 strokes to a mechanic dump in 1000+ and nothing’s resolved)

 

[ship happens]

Wont be the coils on that one. I would say take it over to my shop but you'll be waiting 2 months

The CDI pack and optical sensor is not that difficult to replace. However the WOT timing needs to be set after and thats where things get tricky. Better get a service manual

 

[wildmanyeah]

hard to find a mechanic for a 21 year old two stroke. If you get lucky you will take it in and it will cost you 500 bucks. If you're not you will take it in 3 times and be 3 grand into before you know it.

If you are decent at working on motors you can try to order some parts and do a few fixes yourself. Have a friend who went through a different problem with the similar motor a few years ago, would work perfectly and then sometimes not even be able to get up on step. Ended up replacing reeds, power pack, coils ect ect ect..

might be worth giving a mechanic one shot but you will be easily into 1/3 of the cost of a nice 4 stroke lease return before you know it.

 

[ship happens]

Wont be the reeds or the coils.

CDI now makes all the power packs and ignition parts for these and other brand engines.The OEM packs only ever lasted 5 or 10 years. The CDI pack and sensor will set you back 500 bucks.