Cleaning Carb on 9.9 Yami ???

[Rockfish]

My bad --- When we put the kicker to bed last year it ran perfectly, but perhaps a little low on RPM at idle but not stalling. Did not drain the float bowl, fog the kicker or run the motor for about 10 months.

When reinstalled, the kicker was hard to start and surged at higher rpm and would stall at low rpm. But after some high RPM running the motor no longer surges at high rpm but is still difficult to start and stalls at low/idle rpm. It is a remote control motor, and it takes a lot to get it running which can only be done by putting the out of gear throttle lever up very high once you eventually get it started and then run it at high rpm until it warms up really good. Unfortunately, you can not put it into gear with the rpm lever up and must push it down to idle before you can put it in gear and raise the rpm to keep it running. Of course, when you put it down to idle, it stalls before you get it into gear and the rpm raised. By doing this over and over we eventually get it into gear and running with the rpm up.

When you finally get it into gear and running, it will run all day at trolling speed, although we are careful to keep the rpm up, and when warmed up at the end of the day will idle out of gear for about 6 seconds before it stalls. I understand the most likely cause is a dirty/varnished carb. We plan to run the kicker on a small portable tank which will confirm that there is no fuel supply issue and also will be able to do a high ratio to gas chemical cleaning of the carb with Seafoam. After a little on line research I understand the correct cleaning ratio is 2oz or higher ration of Seafoam to one gal. of gas for carb. motors. For injector motors it is a 50 to 50 ratio of Seafoam to gas. Apparently when being cleaned with Seafoam the motor will smoke a lot. I also understand that a less likely cause is poor fuel supply/sucking air leak, where at higher rpm the fuel pump can suck enough gas but not at low rpm. Sometimes it can be a combination of poor fuel supply and dirty carb/jet and/or low idle setting.

If the Seafoam does not work and fuel supply is good then I guess the carb will need to be disassembled and cleaned, which is not difficult, but I would probably pay a pro. to do it. Hope that is not the case as we would have to put the boat back on the trailer and waste some days and the Chinook season is very short to lose the time fishing.

Any suggestions, ideas, comment?

 

[SpringVelocity]

It's pretty easy to pull out the carb Rick and do it your self. Your idler jet nozzles are probably slightly plugged/or crap in carb. I would ping Rollie or Roy on here as they take apart there's quite a bit. It takes no time at all to do. Just have to blow it out, and re-install. Lots of videos online as well.

 

[Adrenafin]

Save the $150/hr and give it a try. There's you tube vids that will walk you through it. You can always take it in after if you didn't get it. Plus most shops are way too busy right now and you won't see your kicker for weeks.

 

[Rockfish]

I don't think it would hurt to get the idle rpm up a 100 rpm or so. Even last year when the motor was running great, rpm was a bit low. Apparently it is a two stage process. https://www.cowsunite.org/question/how-to-adjust-the-idle-on-yamaha-9-9hp/ May be a bit tricky as the only time it will idle even for few seconds is at the end of the day after it has been running all day.

I really don't want to mess with the carb if I can avoid it. Live in a Condo, no work shop, compressor etc. and I am old with cancer and more and more, past my best before date for that kind of thing, but it may come to that with the help of a fishing buddy.

Fuel should be good as the big motor is running off the same built in tank, and it is running great.

 

[ChilliSpoons]

Look up Project Farmer on YouTube, he does some real world testing on unsponsored products. His videos on using SeaFoam are very interesting and entertaining. He’s by far my favorite YouTuber.

 

[profisher]

On most of the those 9.9 the idle jetting is sealed over by a brass plug. You do likely have a dirty carb and it should be cleaned and as others have said super easy to do...just don't loose anything. But mine continued to be harder to start than it was when I first got it. My mechanic buddy who was with SG Power at the time said he would drill out the brass plug so that you can access the idle jet with a smal flat screw driver. He gave it a half turn out to richen the mixture and it was a new motor again...starts easy again. The factory sets the jet a optimal mixture for burning lean and clean to meet emission standards .but jets need to be adjusted eventually.

 

[Old Fisher]

Rockfish, your engine idle speed will probably correct itself once the carb is disassembled and cleaned. It's worth a shot to give it the Seafoam treatment but my guess is that it will need a good cleaning, which is not difficult to do.

 

[Rockfish]

Rockfish, your engine idle speed will probably correct itself once the carb is disassembled and cleaned. It's worth a shot to give it the Seafoam treatment but my guess is that it will need a good cleaning, which is not difficult to do.

You may be right. Ran the kicker off of a new portable fuel tank system with new mid-grade marine gas and no improvement, but at least fuel supply is ruled out as a compounding problem.

There is only about 3 weeks or so left of prime Chinook season remaining where I fish and would hate to have to pull the boat and remove the carb and then get bogged down with messing around with it and lose the season. It is very hard starting and I suspect it will stay that way till the carb is removed, disassembled and cleaned, but it does run ok all day once you get it running and in gear, which so far we have been able to do. We may try and live with it for the next three weeks or so and then pull the boat out and take the carb off. I really don't like trolling on and putting unnecessary hours on the big motor.

 

[Rockfish]

When you disassemble the carb do you need a rebuild kit, gaskets etc. to put it back together?

 

[chinnok]

You may be right. Ran the kicker off of a new portable fuel tank system with new mid-grade marine gas and no improvement, but at least fuel supply is ruled out as a compounding problem.

There is only about 3 weeks or so left of prime Chinook season remaining where I fish and would hate to have to pull the boat and remove the carb and then get bogged down with messing around with it and lose the season. It is very hard starting and I suspect it will stay that way till the carb is removed, disassembled and cleaned, but it does run ok all day once you get it running and in gear, which so far we have been able to do. We may try and live with it for the next three weeks or so and then pull the boat out and take the carb off. I really don't like trolling on and putting unnecessary hours on the big motor.

I had the same problem and paid to have my carb rebuilt a few years back, didn't make a difference. Ended up buying a new one($300) and bolted it on myself. Should have done that in the first place so it ended up costing me $600 in total. Just a thought!!!!

 

[profisher]

No carb kit required they have a rubber gasket which can be reused..just be careful with it. To do a proper job soak metal parts in a carb cleaning solvent overnight, rinse off under a tap and then use compressed air to blow out all passages...especially the small idle circuit. On my motorbike which is known for plugged idle/pilot circuit passages..I used some 4-6 pound test stiff mono fishing line and pushed it through the passages until it came out the other end to ensure they were clear. Don't use wire as it will scratch the passage and can effect performance...probably not much but better safe than sorry.

 

[Old Fisher]

As Profisher says, no rebuild parts are usually required. Just go slow during disassembly and note how everything goes back together. If there is “varnish” or plugging, it will be in the bore of one of the jets. Soak in carb cleaner or other strong solvent. Blow clean and reassemble.
if you choose to limp through the season, run some Seafoam in your fuel. It is a solvent and may help. Good luck.

 

[triplenickel]

Where are you?

 

[Wild Bill]

If carb cleaner and HP air doesn't work I have found the tiniest bleeds or jets don't clean out. Like leave it in nasty carb cleaner covering affected areas submerged overnight. I have found tiny number drills if you can get at them or very small stainless wire if you need to bend get at it. And more air and cleaning.

 

[prodjsaig]

I would get a rebuild kit and a neddle. the needle could be worn. But I disassembled a 1987 mercury 18xd and put in the gasket kit with no new needle. I would get the gasket kid myself. easy to do.

 

[Rockfish]

Where are you?

I am in Victoria, but the boat stays in Sooke and is currently in a slip in a Marina. This is a fairly new 9.9ht without a lot of hours on it.

We have worked on kickers in the water before by backing the boat into the slip, which gives us access to the kicker on the pod. We have replaced T-stats, plugs etc on a previous kicker this way, but I think removing a carb would be a bit much for this method. Awkward, down low on the water, and too much risk of dropping small parts in the bottom of the cowl or overboard.

To work on the kicker for this, we would have to pull the boat and remove the carb, or remove the hard mounted remote control kicker and bring it to Victoria. That is actually a bit of work.

 

[Doug]

Go to the Carb Guy (Bryn), he is located near U Vic and works out of his garage. He rebuild my 1971 corvette carb and did a great job at a very reasonable price. He learned how to rebuild carbs on marine engines.
Here is his web site: http://carbguy.ca/services.
Only problem is how long will it take to get it rebuilt. I find most things today are delayed or back ordered

 

[Corey_lax]

Get welding tip cleaners. They come with many different small gauge wires. https://www.tenaquip.com/product/we...PpxXWxHGEv-fagH3r-xCOR4EleKzgsIhoCPu8QAvD_BwE

I bought some nasty carb cleaning stuff from Alder Auto Parts. It was tough to find the good stuff AKA very bad for you. It's in a sealed container with a sealed bag over top of it. They said they only keep one on the shelf at a time just incase it leaks lol. I forget the name of it but it works great. I put the carb parts in a muffin tin and let them soak. Don't try a SOLO cup because it will melt away almost instantly.

 

[Rockfish]

Get welding tip cleaners. They come with many different small gauge wires. https://www.tenaquip.com/product/we...PpxXWxHGEv-fagH3r-xCOR4EleKzgsIhoCPu8QAvD_BwE

I bought some nasty carb cleaning stuff from Alder Auto Parts. It was tough to find the good stuff AKA very bad for you. It's in a sealed container with a sealed bag over top of it. They said they only keep one on the shelf at a time just incase it leaks lol. I forget the name of it but it works great. I put the carb parts in a muffin tin and let them soak. Don't try a SOLO cup because it will melt away almost instantly.

I was reading about the old school nasty cleaner online as I searched carb cleaning. Apparently it is hard on your eyes, not good to breath and wear gloves as it can destroy your skin and cause it to crack and bleed. Don't know if you need special gloves.

 

[Corey_lax]

I was reading about the old school nasty cleaner online as I searched carb cleaning. Apparently it is hard on your eyes, not good to breath and wear gloves as it can destroy your skin and cause it to crack and bleed. Don't know if you need special gloves.

Just gotta be careful with it. Don’t drink the stuff haha. My neighbour’s tree did die a few weeks after I cleaned my motorcycle carbs which may or may not have been a coincidence but it certainly did improve my view of the Fraser river