17 Malibu rewire questions

Rayvon

Well-Known Member
I've decided to rewire the boat I bought last summer to include the mini ACR,new panels and fuses/breakers.I was thinking I would have a small panel at the back to run the downriggers (the biggest draw on the boat).Should I run the forward panel off the back panel too or run a seperate line from the battery switch?What amp.fuses or breakers should I use to protect the 2 panels? I thought maybe 100 amp breaker for the back panel and 50 for the front panel?I bought a 100 amp. 6 fuse panel for the rear (I only need 2 or 3) and a 60 amp.12 fuse panel for the front (overkill too).I won't be running anything fancy on this boat,want to keep it clean and simple.I run 2 batteries.
 
I've decided to rewire the boat I bought last summer to include the mini ACR,new panels and fuses/breakers.I was thinking I would have a small panel at the back to run the downriggers (the biggest draw on the boat).Should I run the forward panel off the back panel too or run a seperate line from the battery switch?What amp.fuses or breakers should I use to protect the 2 panels? I thought maybe 100 amp breaker for the back panel and 50 for the front panel?I bought a 100 amp. 6 fuse panel for the rear (I only need 2 or 3) and a 60 amp.12 fuse panel for the front (overkill too).I won't be running anything fancy on this boat,want to keep it clean and simple.I run 2 batteries.
I’m considering this on my boat as well when I repower in the spring! can’t wait to hear about the suggestions
 
I've decided to rewire the boat I bought last summer to include the mini ACR,new panels and fuses/breakers.I was thinking I would have a small panel at the back to run the downriggers (the biggest draw on the boat).Should I run the forward panel off the back panel too or run a seperate line from the battery switch?What amp.fuses or breakers should I use to protect the 2 panels? I thought maybe 100 amp breaker for the back panel and 50 for the front panel?I bought a 100 amp. 6 fuse panel for the rear (I only need 2 or 3) and a 60 amp.12 fuse panel for the front (overkill too).I won't be running anything fancy on this boat,want to keep it clean and simple.I run 2 batteries.
Very similar to what I did with my 19.5, separate breakers for forward and aft fuse blocks. More circuits up front but more load aft because of downriggers. Two bilge pumps is a good idea, one with a manual switch on the dash, one on a float switch and powered directly off house battery.

I laid out battery switch, ACR, fuse block, circuit breakers, terminal posts, ground bus bar and cable tie mounts on a piece of cutting board and did all the drilling and mounting work on the bench. Then installed it into the hull and wired it all up.
 
Thanks "sly-karma" ,do you think the 100 amp.breaker in back and 50 amp.breaker in front are sized right,I haven't ordered them yet?
 
Seems like lots. DRs have a 30A fuse each if I remember right. Trap puller usually runs from same circuit, and its hard to think of a situation where you'd have DR and puller running same time.
 
Wire each panel separate to your house battery positive distribution (usually a busbar). Size the wire feeding the panels per this chart:

Take note that wire run length is power + ground run length. Protect each positive run to the panels by a fuse/breaker equal to the panel rating/max load as close to the battery as possible.

Many boat fires are caused by DC power short circuits, so the fuse/breaker is protecting the wire.

Since panels come in fixed sizes, buy a panel large enough to carry all loads but the panel wires/fuses only need to be big enough to handle all loads:

Your rear downrigger panel is rated for 100A but your 2 dowriggers (if they are Scotty) are internally protected by a 30A breaker each, so a wire sized for 60 amps is enough. FYI you will get better DR performance by wiring the individual DR's with 10 gauge.
 
"(ericl}" thanks for that,I went with a 100 amp. breaker and fuse panel at the rear in case I decided to add a third downrigger or a pot puller.Not likely because I jig more than anything now.I was thinking a short #2 cable to the rear panel,#10 to forward panel and the downriggers.Sound right?
 
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I see by the chart you showed that I can get away with #4 in rear and #6or #8 to front.
 
Use fuses not breakers for individual circuits to devices. Breakers don't break the circuit very fast compared to a blade type fuses. I'm using 20 amp fuses for each of my downriggers (not high performance ones) I have them in individual mini blade waterproof fuse holders all located in one of my dry battery compartments at the stern. Makes it a quick change when I blow one.
 
Highly unlikely you will be using the pot puller when DR's are also operating. What profisher says about breakers being slower than fuses is true, but I seem to remember Scotty recommends breakers.

Once you get to wire larger than 8awg you need a very expensive crimp tool about the size of large pruning shears. Best to find a shop that will make theses cable for you; some make them for free when you buy the parts.
 
Highly unlikely you will be using the pot puller when DR's are also operating. What profisher says about breakers being slower than fuses is true, but I seem to remember Scotty recommends breakers.

Once you get to wire larger than 8awg you need a very expensive crimp tool about the size of large pruning shears. Best to find a shop that will make theses cable for you; some make them for free when you buy the parts.
i have a hydraulic lug crimper if you want to send me cables, or i can source cable and crimp for you
 
All devices will be run off the panels which have fuses,the blade type,the only breakers will be near the batteries to protect the wire runs to the panels.My son runs an electrical company,so he has the crimping tool.He doesn't deal with DC on a daily basis so I thought I'd ask the knowledgeable boaters here for advise.This may be overkill for my small boat,but I'm not exactly overly busy at the moment,gives me something to play with.
 
Battery Direct (Canadian Energy) on Cave St in Esquimalt will make up any heavy gauge wires with the crimped tin coated connectors..they use a heavy gauge heat shrink as well and the ones I saw were definetly water tight. Mine aredue to be done again so I will take my lengths to them and get new ones made.
 
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