Transducer cable cut, options?

[nicnat]

I had my lawrance LMS-527 transducer and temp cable cut in an attempted theft of my motor. along with all the cables, hyd steering fuel ignition battery etc, lol.

so I am wondering if any of you have spliced the temp and transducer cables back together with any success and no difference in function .it's a clean cut and easily accessible. my insurance is covering the damage, less deductible and I am getting a new transducer but if a splice will work 100% it will save a lot of hassle on installation and I can use the new one on another boat. just a yes or no on whether this will work is all I'm looking for here, not comments like just put the new one on, lol.

 

[Clint r]

i spliced a hummingbird transducer cable one time. Results were unsatisfactory. Maybe different today as that was about 20 years ago.

 

[Birdsnest]

Ive spliced them in the past and seemed to work fine for me but it was an old model with no temp.

 

[Damien]

Ask Lowrance about any model specific concerns? I fixed an old one that was cut, but that was a long time ago, and it was a Humminbird.

 

[Fishtank]

I cut and re spliced a airmarp66 transducer with temp and it's been working for five years, knock on wood

 

[Fishtank]

Was for a lowrance hds

 

[Birdsnest]

Whats the worst that could happen?

 

[trophywife]

yup splicy splicy.. if you can tin them do eeeet.

 

[nicnat]

was thinking of using the heat shrink connectors

 

[Sr SQ]

It will work if you make good connections.
Airmar sells splice boxes if you want to go that route.

 

[trophywife]

was thinking of using the heat shrink connectors

yes , slide the heat shrink connectors a distance away.. tin the connection then heat shrink them.

 

[Fishtank]

yes , slide the heat shrink connectors a distance away.. tin the connection then heat shrink them.

How do you "tin the connection"? Was going to re splice mine since I'm rewiring my boat

 

[Birdsnest]

I would use these for certain and dip the ends in dielectric grease before crimping!

 

[Aces]

If insurance is paying for it I would get a whole new cable and be sure

 

[nicnat]

lol I knew I'd get that post, you obviously didn't read my original post.

 

[trophywife]

How do you "tin the connection"? Was going to re splice mine since I'm rewiring my boat

soldering gun with flux core solder, pre heat the wire for about 5 secs, then touch the tip of the gun with the solder while touching the wire with tip of gun..if that makes sense...

 

[bones]

how long are the wires?
maybe jelly beans from 3m or the heat shrink/solder/crimp connectors pending how long the wires are. then thick wall heat shrink tubing covering it all.
they make 3 types of crimps, sh/so/cr are the best.

 

[Aces]

lol I knew I'd get that post, you obviously didn't read my original post.

After having the same experience and problems with the joint in the full time saltwater environment i ended up installing a whole new unit, which is why i posted that.

Good luck

 

[nicnat]

thanks for the replies. the boat is trailered and the break is above the waterline (will still obviously get salt water on it) so no too worried about it sitting in the salt, I am going to try the easiest using the connectors birdsnest showed above. I will have the new one to install if this doesn't work. I'm retired so it gives me something to do since I can't fish till this mess is fixed. they almost had my 2015 115hp etec, nuts were off the mounting bolts and motor had been slid an inch or 2 away from the transom. right in my front yard, lol. tried to upload a pic but it says file is too big.

 

[TheBigGuy]

I had a very similar issue. The transducer cable was cut below the waterline. I had the transducer replaced, and was I originally just going to chuck it. Then I figured what the hell even if it's below the waterline I'll give it a go splicing it back together for a spare.

I soldered each wire individually. Covered each wire in hot glue melt then heat shrink tubing over each wire. I already have a detailed post in this sub forum on how to do joins this way.

http://www.sportfishingbc.com/forum/index.php?threads/waterproof-electrical-connections.63899/

After each individual wire is soldered and heat shrunk, cover the cable in hot glue melt, then heat shrink a larger covering over the whole cable. Afterwards I covered the entire area of the join with marine silicone to ensure no water got in.

I used that transducer on my small 12-14 foot aluminum boat for years until the Garmin head unit from my big boat finally died. I got tons of use out of it and never had any problems with the transducer.

Soldering is not recommended these days for marine joins, but I think you would have problems crimping this back together. There are many small wires inside the cable and using connectors would get too bulky real fast. You need to keep the connections small so you can get it all back together in a reasonable sized join. Soldering takes hardly any extra space, so I think from experience I'd say it would work better for this repair job.

If you are not comfortable soldering use crimps, but it will take up a lot of extra space depending on how many wires you have to deal with.

My connection lasted many, many years and never did fail even with being used underwater in the salt. This was my experience with this exact type of repair job. If you are not a fan of soldering don't use it, and please spare me your the criticisms because I know it worked perfectly without any issues whatsoever. To each there own.