Outboard vs Inboard
- Thread starter coholips
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TenMile
Well-Known Member
Google is your friend here, lots of discussion here and around the web on this topic.
I have a Mercruiser 5.7 MPI Horizon I/O and have owned OBs.
I/Os:
- larger, louder, take up more deck space, more part exposed to salt air, require more frequent servicing.
- are mostly repackaged GM engines so parts are cheaper, easier for the DIY mechanic (but you probably also need to be a DIY mechanic or have a buddy).
- less expensive to rebuild (but more likely to need it)
- IMHO the two part engine/drive is much more prone to trouble and will require rebuilds over a shorter life span.
- two rubber bellows between you and the pacific ocean.
- if your boat stays in the water, so does the leg
OBs (modern 4 stroke OBs):
- smaller, lighter, quieter
- modern 4 strokes and 2 strokes are now more fuel efficient
- better power to weight ratio
- much more expensive upfront
- general service is roughly the same as an I/O, however replacement parts are proprietary and thus much more expensive
- generally have much longer warranties (5-6 years in many cases)
- take up some fishing room at the stern of the boat
- overall expected engine life is roughly equal between the two choices (roughly 3500-4000 hours if treated well).
There are loads of opinions on this topic. In short, my next choice would be an OB -- any of the major manufacturers are top notch these days.
As for choices of I/O -- if new, there aren't many -- basically Volvo or Mercruiser. Yamaha have introduced a new diesel I/O which is a rebadged Tohatsu or Yanmar (can't recall).
TenMile
<'((((><
I have a Mercruiser 5.7 MPI Horizon I/O and have owned OBs.
I/Os:
- larger, louder, take up more deck space, more part exposed to salt air, require more frequent servicing.
- are mostly repackaged GM engines so parts are cheaper, easier for the DIY mechanic (but you probably also need to be a DIY mechanic or have a buddy).
- less expensive to rebuild (but more likely to need it)
- IMHO the two part engine/drive is much more prone to trouble and will require rebuilds over a shorter life span.
- two rubber bellows between you and the pacific ocean.
- if your boat stays in the water, so does the leg
OBs (modern 4 stroke OBs):
- smaller, lighter, quieter
- modern 4 strokes and 2 strokes are now more fuel efficient
- better power to weight ratio
- much more expensive upfront
- general service is roughly the same as an I/O, however replacement parts are proprietary and thus much more expensive
- generally have much longer warranties (5-6 years in many cases)
- take up some fishing room at the stern of the boat
- overall expected engine life is roughly equal between the two choices (roughly 3500-4000 hours if treated well).
There are loads of opinions on this topic. In short, my next choice would be an OB -- any of the major manufacturers are top notch these days.
As for choices of I/O -- if new, there aren't many -- basically Volvo or Mercruiser. Yamaha have introduced a new diesel I/O which is a rebadged Tohatsu or Yanmar (can't recall).
TenMile
<'((((><
Whole in the Water
Well-Known Member
In times past I/O were used on boats of 20+ ft. because the O/B back then didn't have the horsepower. Added to this was the fact that there were no large displacement 4 stroke O/B's until the last 10 or so years. This as we all know is no longer the case. In my opinion I don't know why anyone would go with an I/O as they don't have the horsepower, economy and less fumes advantages anymore, yet still take up valuable cockpit space. Obviously in boats 35+ ft. O/B's make less sense or don't work out all, but then I would go with a simple, straight inboard. The reason for this is the weakest link in I/O is not the engine, but the leg. Despite the fact that legs have been around for a while they are still the weakest link and are prone to many mechanical and maitenance issues. In short they are seldom built strong enough to be reliable over time. That's my 2 cents.
Long live wild salmon!!!
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Long live wild salmon!!!
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)))>Degree of Freedom
Active Member
I've always had I/O's...after fishing on a buddy's boat that's been podded, I want to do the same (that and almost sinking due to a sterndrive vs log incident recently). Nothing wrong with I/O's, I just now think outboards are more pracical for fishing boats.
wolf
Well-Known Member
Well In the last ten years ive had both.
Had an older double eagle that had a 305 in it loved it. But had to go bigger so went to the glas ply podded it and put and outboard on it awsome boat but again went bigger LOL. wanted to go BACK to an inboard so wound up with the 26 ft hourston my dream boat. there is pros and cons on both parts.
As for leg issues it doesnt matter if its a inboard leg or an outboard leg either one if YOU do not do regular MATENANCE</u> on any of them you will have grief they are the same price to fix 5 grand for both for new ones so its really not an issue if you look after them every year changing gear oil you will be fine.
Things I do and dont I like about the outboard, Awsome power and basically hop in and run, but I look under that cover and OMG you need so many different tools to work on it and when something goes wrong off to the shop it goes for some major bucks being spent.
As for an inboard they are easy to work on and for me I can do most of it which saves me money.
Now price a new outboard your basically looking when the dust settles 20 grand. And when and outboard goes well there is no repairing them you throw the power head away and start new. and there usually isnt a warning before it goes its just gone.
I had to have an emergency fund set aside just incase it went as I need to be up and running in a couple of days. profisher has the right idea hes got a "spare" engine ready to be bolted on when he has problems and he may lose a day or two not weeks if there isnt a engine around try finding a engine when its in the middle of the season its a real biatch.
As for an inboard just look at how many 1970 and early 80s boats with the original engine still going!!!!! rather impressive really.
My new boat has a 350 chev in it and 290 hp for a boat that weighs 6000 + lbs in it it gets up on plane in about 40 ft and cruises at 3200 to 3400 rpm doing 25 to 28 kts more than fast enough WOT had it going close to 41 more than enough "power".
Yes ive heard it all manifolds,riser etc but its easy to look after you know when its having problems and easy to fix you know every 7 yrs you need new ones. hell I know outboards that dont even last 5 yrs.
A new crate engine short block landed at my door is 2000 bucks compared to 20,000 bucks and throw in manifold every 5 to 7 yrs at a grand at a time I can get alot of engines and manifolds for that 20 grand and I will say this your not going to get 20 yrs out of and outboard with out shelling out $$$$$$ as well.
I know of one guide who in 4 yrs has gone threw 2 yammy 225 4 strokes to a tune of close to $40,000 thats a lot of money to spend on engines.
Either way you have to spend time with both and have a daily,weekly,monthly matenence program or you will have problems.
I like both but for me an inboard I can look after everything on it comes down to money in my case.
Good luck in your venture Wolf
Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
Had an older double eagle that had a 305 in it loved it. But had to go bigger so went to the glas ply podded it and put and outboard on it awsome boat but again went bigger LOL. wanted to go BACK to an inboard so wound up with the 26 ft hourston my dream boat. there is pros and cons on both parts.
As for leg issues it doesnt matter if its a inboard leg or an outboard leg either one if YOU do not do regular MATENANCE</u> on any of them you will have grief they are the same price to fix 5 grand for both for new ones so its really not an issue if you look after them every year changing gear oil you will be fine.
Things I do and dont I like about the outboard, Awsome power and basically hop in and run, but I look under that cover and OMG you need so many different tools to work on it and when something goes wrong off to the shop it goes for some major bucks being spent.
As for an inboard they are easy to work on and for me I can do most of it which saves me money.
Now price a new outboard your basically looking when the dust settles 20 grand. And when and outboard goes well there is no repairing them you throw the power head away and start new. and there usually isnt a warning before it goes its just gone.
I had to have an emergency fund set aside just incase it went as I need to be up and running in a couple of days. profisher has the right idea hes got a "spare" engine ready to be bolted on when he has problems and he may lose a day or two not weeks if there isnt a engine around try finding a engine when its in the middle of the season its a real biatch.
As for an inboard just look at how many 1970 and early 80s boats with the original engine still going!!!!! rather impressive really.
My new boat has a 350 chev in it and 290 hp for a boat that weighs 6000 + lbs in it it gets up on plane in about 40 ft and cruises at 3200 to 3400 rpm doing 25 to 28 kts more than fast enough WOT had it going close to 41 more than enough "power".
Yes ive heard it all manifolds,riser etc but its easy to look after you know when its having problems and easy to fix you know every 7 yrs you need new ones. hell I know outboards that dont even last 5 yrs.
A new crate engine short block landed at my door is 2000 bucks compared to 20,000 bucks and throw in manifold every 5 to 7 yrs at a grand at a time I can get alot of engines and manifolds for that 20 grand and I will say this your not going to get 20 yrs out of and outboard with out shelling out $$$$$$ as well.
I know of one guide who in 4 yrs has gone threw 2 yammy 225 4 strokes to a tune of close to $40,000 thats a lot of money to spend on engines.
Either way you have to spend time with both and have a daily,weekly,monthly matenence program or you will have problems.
I like both but for me an inboard I can look after everything on it comes down to money in my case.
Good luck in your venture Wolf
Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
Barnacle Bill
Well-Known Member
Wolf, all good points, and you didn't even mention the possible heater and/or defroster that can be added,.........BB
coholips
Active Member
Awesome points from everyone. I really appreciate all the feedback and feel that an I/O might be alright after all. I have my eyes on a mint 1982 2100HT Glasply with a 170hp Mercruiser I/O (with inboard cooling). I thought 2100 meant 21 feet but the owner tells me its actually 19 feet. If this is correct would this engine be adequate? The engine has low hours and has been serviced annually and has spent a large part of its life in fresh water. One other thing of concern would be how easy/hard is it to access spark plugs and oil pan for myself to do basic maintenance? Here are a few pics:
Barnacle Bill
Well-Known Member
Spark plugs are easy to change. Oil changes are done through the dip stick,with a suction tube. You don't change the oil by draining the oil pan. Filter is easy to change also. BTW, nice looking boat and trailer.,..........BB
For the average guy an IO is probably great, but there is a reason that I can count the number of guide boats that put serious hours on inboards on one hand. Most guys get 1000 hours on a 4 stroke with zero trips to the dealer. By the time you did that on a stern drive, I'm willing to bet you will have done at least manifolds, one or two starters and at least an altenator as well.
On an outboard your power head is high and dry, and when turned off, the unit is right out of the water. The powerhead replacement versus engine replacement compared to an IO is not really a fair guess, as in a car, it's rarley the engine that goes, it's all of the crap bolted to it! Most good ol' Chev 350's will run a long time even when smoking and clunking, but if a hose in your san juan cooling decides to get a leak in it, it's bye byte boat! Or if a gasget failes in your riser, it's hydrolock time next time you start your boat.
Yes, an outboard will usually not give you a lot of warning before going "boom", but I think if one adds up the reciepts and time over say a 10 year lifespan, you will be darn close in cost to either one.
Last Chance Fishing Adventures
www.lastchancefishingadventures.com
www.swiftsurebank.com
On an outboard your power head is high and dry, and when turned off, the unit is right out of the water. The powerhead replacement versus engine replacement compared to an IO is not really a fair guess, as in a car, it's rarley the engine that goes, it's all of the crap bolted to it! Most good ol' Chev 350's will run a long time even when smoking and clunking, but if a hose in your san juan cooling decides to get a leak in it, it's bye byte boat! Or if a gasget failes in your riser, it's hydrolock time next time you start your boat.
Yes, an outboard will usually not give you a lot of warning before going "boom", but I think if one adds up the reciepts and time over say a 10 year lifespan, you will be darn close in cost to either one.
Last Chance Fishing Adventures
www.lastchancefishingadventures.com
www.swiftsurebank.com
Whole in the Water
Well-Known Member
Well said LastChance my sentiments as well.
Long live wild salmon!!!
><)))>
Long live wild salmon!!!
><
)))>
TenMile
Well-Known Member
Nice machine. My boat neighbour just purchased that exact model. Sounds like the same engine as well -- I think it's the 6cyl 4.2L.
Internal decor is very 1980s, but hey, just let your mullet grow and put on your Twisted Sister or Duran Duran cassettes and you're good to go [] -- you never know, maybe it will catch fish like it's the 80s too.
I had to help him open the leg oil reservoir so had the chance to crawl into the engine well. I have to say, the layout for maintenance is excellent with this boat. You can easily get to the front and back of the engine without any difficulty at all. No problem with plugs, oil, even access to trim tabs, batteries etc is much easier that in my boat.
TenMile
<'((((><
Internal decor is very 1980s, but hey, just let your mullet grow and put on your Twisted Sister or Duran Duran cassettes and you're good to go [
] -- you never know, maybe it will catch fish like it's the 80s too.I had to help him open the leg oil reservoir so had the chance to crawl into the engine well. I have to say, the layout for maintenance is excellent with this boat. You can easily get to the front and back of the engine without any difficulty at all. No problem with plugs, oil, even access to trim tabs, batteries etc is much easier that in my boat.
TenMile
<'((((><
coholips
Active Member
quote:Originally posted by TenMile
Nice machine. My boat neighbour just purchased that exact model. Sounds like the same engine as well -- I think it's the 6cyl 4.2L.
Internal decor is very 1980s, but hey, just let your mullet grow and put on your Twisted Sister or Duran Duran cassettes and you're good to go [
I had to help him open the leg oil reservoir so had the chance to crawl into the engine well. I have to say, the layout for maintenance is excellent with this boat. You can easily get to the front and back of the engine without any difficulty at all. No problem with plugs, oil, even access to trim tabs, batteries etc is much easier that in my boat.
TenMile
<'((((><
Great post Ten Mile.... If I end up with this boat I'll be sure to dust off the Quiet Riot and let my freak flag fly! That's good to know that there is room to maneuver in and around the engine as I'd heard that was a real issue with some I/O boats.
wolf
Well-Known Member
Like I said earlier LC if you dont have a matenance program in effect you will have problems plain and simple be it a I/O or an outboard every thing comes down to looking after what you have you being a comp tech you know what I mean LOL LOL
HUH........... 40 grand in outboard reapirs in 4 years thats not even close.
In all the years I had an inboard never had a probelm with a leg (merc) as we took it off every year to check it over went thru in tem yrs of owning my ol DE I think it was 1 alt and 3 starters one of which was my own fault and one set of manifolds total cost about 2 grand that was it over ten yrs but them im a bit anal about checking and mantaining things but it proves it in the numbers.
With the outboard I had in 3 yrs a total of almost 5 grand in simple repairs:
plugs at 25 bucks a pop good for a 100 hours x 6 for 3 yrs
new reeds 2000 grand once the dust settled
new upper leg gears and seals, didnt really need replacing but once again anal about it so did as there was some slight pitting in one gear. so grand total almost $5000 bucks in repairs to an a outboard where in ten years 2 grand hhhmmmmmm where is the saving LOL
But seriouslly the easist way to make things last in an I/O is so simple if you have a rain drop covering the engine just lift the engine cover and leave it open to let the engine breath as this saves big time on condensation build up which wrecks starters,alt
If you let it breath you dont have condensation and thats how I learned the hard way kep it dry and open and it will last for years.
Like I said Love both but the price of an outboard is so out of touch its not even funny. $20,000 for one is damn stupid.
Just look after your stuff it will last be diligent and not be lazy and say ill fix it later then later and thats where most problems start
Coho I had my glasply for 3 yrs and loved it just had to go a bit bigger and fun to fish out of as for trolling the thing is great for manuvering Team fah cups has the same one as well I think. The reason I took the I/O out of mine it was the BMW engine and leg and parts for it was almost next to impossable. but merc parts are easy to come by. looks clean and very nice
Good luck Wolf
Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
HUH........... 40 grand in outboard reapirs in 4 years thats not even close.
In all the years I had an inboard never had a probelm with a leg (merc) as we took it off every year to check it over went thru in tem yrs of owning my ol DE I think it was 1 alt and 3 starters one of which was my own fault and one set of manifolds total cost about 2 grand that was it over ten yrs but them im a bit anal about checking and mantaining things but it proves it in the numbers.
With the outboard I had in 3 yrs a total of almost 5 grand in simple repairs:
plugs at 25 bucks a pop good for a 100 hours x 6 for 3 yrs
new reeds 2000 grand once the dust settled
new upper leg gears and seals, didnt really need replacing but once again anal about it so did as there was some slight pitting in one gear. so grand total almost $5000 bucks in repairs to an a outboard where in ten years 2 grand hhhmmmmmm where is the saving LOL
But seriouslly the easist way to make things last in an I/O is so simple if you have a rain drop covering the engine just lift the engine cover and leave it open to let the engine breath as this saves big time on condensation build up which wrecks starters,alt
If you let it breath you dont have condensation and thats how I learned the hard way kep it dry and open and it will last for years.
Like I said Love both but the price of an outboard is so out of touch its not even funny. $20,000 for one is damn stupid.
Just look after your stuff it will last be diligent and not be lazy and say ill fix it later then later and thats where most problems start
Coho I had my glasply for 3 yrs and loved it just had to go a bit bigger and fun to fish out of as for trolling the thing is great for manuvering Team fah cups has the same one as well I think. The reason I took the I/O out of mine it was the BMW engine and leg and parts for it was almost next to impossable. but merc parts are easy to come by. looks clean and very nice
Good luck Wolf
Blue Wolf Charters
www.bluewolfcharters.com
searun
Well-Known Member
I/O is no way to go! Two reasons. 1) engine problems with an outboard it is 4 bolts and gone. With an I/O its a few days of farting around to change out, which equals serious downtime that I can't afford in-season. 2) I/O is a serious fire/explosion hazard...I have seen the mushroom cloud on the water before, it aint a pretty sight[xx(]
Diesel is a slightly different prospect...that is perhaps the only I/O I would consider, but not before taking a diesel maintenance course. They are finicky to say the very least.
Searun
Diesel is a slightly different prospect...that is perhaps the only I/O I would consider, but not before taking a diesel maintenance course. They are finicky to say the very least.
Searun
Tailspin
Active Member
I have about 10K tied up in 3 200 Yami carbed 2 strokes. The one on the boat has 1 full season on it since a rebuild at $2,700.00. I have a complete rebuilt spare at $3,000.00 and another complete engine in parts stuffed into a tote. That is my own parts store. I paid about $2,600.00 to get all the parts for complete spare and the tote engine. A few misc bought parts will bring it up to around 10K. I have 2 spare legs and mid sections with power tilt that I'm selling and hope to recover $2,500 for all those parts in time.
As a guide it is peace of mind to know that even if disaster strikes and an engine grenades or it just needs parts, I'm covered in quick time. I've also torn these engines apart and re-assembled the complete spare (after the rotating assembly was rebuilt at SG) and found the 2 strokes very simple to work on. Most of the electrics are plug and play technology that anybody could work on if they get past the intimidation factor. Reed valves were easy to replace and rebuilding carbs just as simple.
As a guide it is peace of mind to know that even if disaster strikes and an engine grenades or it just needs parts, I'm covered in quick time. I've also torn these engines apart and re-assembled the complete spare (after the rotating assembly was rebuilt at SG) and found the 2 strokes very simple to work on. Most of the electrics are plug and play technology that anybody could work on if they get past the intimidation factor. Reed valves were easy to replace and rebuilding carbs just as simple.
HALILLAMA
Active Member
6 Cylinder diesel w/shaft drive and you'll be surprised how many hours you can stand at the wheel with no troubles! Ask me I've been there done that right around Vancouver Island too. As Wolf says there must be maintenance, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Err on the side of caution. Good luck and be Safe.[8D]
Ask me I've been there done that right around Vancouver Island too. As Wolf says there must be maintenance, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Err on the side of caution. Good luck and be Safe.[8D]
Charlie
Well-Known Member
What’s wrong with ‘Mercs’, I have two of them? Oh wait, I can’t really say that… as mine were made by Yamaha!
I started with outboard. When I went to I/O, I swore I’d never own another O/B. Then I went to twin diesel inboards. I swore I’d never go back to gas, O/B, or I/O… What do I own now? Twin gas O/B and I am impressed with the ‘lack’ of maintenance I have had to do on them!
As mentioned, with an I/O you have to keep the corrosion out of the engine compartment. As they get older that becomes more of a battle. I have had to replace two outdrives, both were Bravo 3 and you won’t find them ‘new’ for anywhere close to $5000 – will be closer to $8000. When the warranty expired that boat and Bravo 3 went, bye-bye! That is 'not' a good outdrive to leave setting in the water, unless you know how to protect it from electrolysis!
Next time you change spark plugs, try ‘Iridium’, you can cross reference on NGK website, then , buy off ‘Ebay’.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/watercraft/make.asp?table=toutboard
I started with outboard. When I went to I/O, I swore I’d never own another O/B. Then I went to twin diesel inboards. I swore I’d never go back to gas, O/B, or I/O… What do I own now? Twin gas O/B and I am impressed with the ‘lack’ of maintenance I have had to do on them!
As mentioned, with an I/O you have to keep the corrosion out of the engine compartment. As they get older that becomes more of a battle. I have had to replace two outdrives, both were Bravo 3 and you won’t find them ‘new’ for anywhere close to $5000 – will be closer to $8000. When the warranty expired that boat and Bravo 3 went, bye-bye! That is 'not' a good outdrive to leave setting in the water, unless you know how to protect it from electrolysis!
Next time you change spark plugs, try ‘Iridium’, you can cross reference on NGK website, then , buy off ‘Ebay’.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/watercraft/make.asp?table=toutboard
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