Scotty Power Plugs

Rockfish

Well-Known Member
I am converting another device to plug into the Rigger power circuit. I would like to confirm that on the new type male Scotty power plug the positive wire goes on the smaller prong, -- correct???. Having a bit of a memory lapse and don't want to wire it up backwards and possibly do some damage.

While we are at it, any tips on getting the plastic cover off a new male plug. I have pulled them off in the past and don't recall it being this difficult. Perhaps a little arthritis in the fingers now.
 
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1- negative
2- positive
 
Thanks GLG, of course that only helps me if there are numbers stamped in once I get the cover off - assuming there are numbers on the prongs. The prongs are significantly different sizes so the number 2 - positive is the smaller prong -- correct???.
 
I would use a meter to check which way your existing socket, that you are plugging into, is wired. This is a good way to prevent connecting it backwards.
 
Thanks If I was on the boat it would be easier. Just checked a new female spare and it is marked in the plastic with the 1 and 2 and the smaller prong is the # 2. Tried a heat gun on the cover and it is still not off. Don't want to use vice grips on the hard prong end as that could cut/damage the O ring seal. Perhaps some blade screwdrivers would help pushed in along the sides. The female cover comes off easy unlike the male plug.

Edit. Duh - why not just remove the O ring and try the vice grips but would still have to be gentle as it is just hard plastic and could damage the O ring bed..
 
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Mine had an arrow on one of the pins. That is the negative spot as I wired it the other way and noticed my rigger let out line instead of retrieving it. Switched it and it worked properly.
 
Yes if you reverse polarity in a DC circuit motor it will run in the reverse direction. The device I want to hook up is expensive and has sensitive electronics in it. I would like to think it has a diode rectifier to prevent accidental reverse polarity damage but am not counting on it. Will be using it on different boats so the standard Scotty rigger polarity set up should work on all boats. I am assuming the small prong should always be wired as the positive.
 
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Yes if you reverse polarity in a DC circuit motor it will run in the reverse direction. The device I want to hook up is expensive and has sensitive electronics in it. I would like to think it has a rectifier to prevent accidental reverse polarity damage but am not counting on it. Will be using it on different boats so the standard Scotty rigger polarity set up should work on all boats. I am assuming the small prong should always be wired as the positive.

I just checked my spare and the small prong is in fact #2 and that's positive. My cover came of with no problem :rolleyes:
 
Finally got the cover off the male without great difficulty by plugging it into the spare female which gave two good handholds to pull and twist in the direction of the locking mechanism.
 
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If you are concerned about polarity and sensitive electronics and so forth. Get a proper plug and meter. The fusing on Scotty downriggers is 30A and I bet what your plugging in is supposed to be fused alot lower. Is all the wiring 10ga? Probably not. First problem and all your wire will melt. By by sensitive equipment
 
Hi, just wondering if anyone uses Neutrik Speakon connectors for your downrigger power and other accessories?
Great product and seems more affordable..
Example... http://www.alliedelec.com/audio-vid...k+plug&pmt=b&gclid=CPyZwfnmnNQCFQKoaQodoYcACQ

My concern would be that Scotty may void your warrranty if the downrigger has a different brand plug on it.
If the downrigger went in for servicing , Scotty wouldn't be able to power up and test it with a different plug.
 
If you are concerned about polarity and sensitive electronics and so forth. Get a proper plug and meter. The fusing on Scotty downriggers is 30A and I bet what your plugging in is supposed to be fused alot lower. Is all the wiring 10ga? Probably not. First problem and all your wire will melt. By by sensitive equipment

Thanks Bones, food for thought and I have a meter. The device I want to run once in a while comes factory setup to attach direct to the battery terminals with alligator clips for temporary use so it must have its own fuse or internal circuit breaker. It does have a small built in LCD screen and electronic control module, hence the concern about polarity. I understand others have converted them to run off the rigger circuit using the high end Marinco plugs that Scotty now uses since we would never be using it and the rigger at the same time. It would seem to be a lot cleaner than having to leave the transom battery compartment door flopping around open with clips on the battery that could spring off and a long cord lying around strung across the fishing deck to trip over. I just wanted to be sure the polarity on the male plug was wired correctly, since the female plug should always be wired correctly in terms of polarity or the rigger motor would be running backwards.

I have seen some fabricate and use an adapter for this device using two small partially insulated copper plates wired to a male Scotty plug so that it is not necessary to cut off the alligator clips but that seems less clean to me. That method would be more likely to keep the warranty intact since we would not be modifying the power cord to the device by removing the alligator clips but I guess we could just order a new power cord. Using the adapter method would also allow the use of an additional lower amp fuse added to the adapter wire.

So far I am thinking the preferred method would be to remove the two alligator clips and wire direct to the high end Marinco plug, it just seems cleaner. The device could also be moved quickly from boat to boat as long as the boat has a universal Scotty type rigger circuit, which is important to me.

If it were to be used just on our boat we could wire in a completely separate circuit but it will likely be used as much on my friends boats as mine. If we wanted to be extra extra careful on my boat it would be easy enough to pull the 30 amp blade fuse out of the sealed fuse holder on the rigger circuit and replace it with a lower amp fuse while using the device. Finally we could just live with the pain in the butt alligator clips but I suspect that would get tiresome real fast, especially on my friends boats. I am open to suggestions as I have not yet cut off the alligator clips.
 
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Your average battery is capable of outputting 650 amps and your device has clips to connect so there is no need to worry about going through a scotty circuit that is fused for 30 amps. Cut it off and wire it up as your device most likely has an internal fuse. If your concerned PM me with the detail of the device and I'll look for the schematics to ease your mind.
 
Delivers 650, on a short it shoots up to huge because there is zero resistance 100,000 to 200,000 at least.
To keep your wiring safe, inline a fuse off the positive terminal and anchor it where you can still clip on and hide all the loose wires. In other words, extend the power post with in line fuse. The gator clip to those. You can buy such posts from auto shops. You may have notice them on utility trucks bolted thru the truck body for outside power.

Just spit ballin.
 
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