Water Issue in Hull. please help!

Stizzla

Crew Member
My double eagle had a big in floor fish box. I don’t use it because:
A: I don’t want to clean it
B: I don’t catch fish.

I was out tinkering in the boat yesterday and pulled one of the inspection hatches just for fun and saw that there was a lot of water inside the hull. I grabbed my shop vac and stuck it in and I was shocked to see how much I got out of it. Probably 7 or 8 gallons.

I know the boat has spent it’s life under cover until I got it. I had the top off for a couple of weeks and there was quite a bit of rain. I also hose down the whole floor after fishing.
I think it got in through one of the inspection hatches as the o-ring doesn’t fit the cap well and it wasn’t screwed on properly.

so now i put two Dry-Z-Airs it it and shoving the wifey’s hair dryer in there. Any other tips to get it dry? It seems to be all glassed inside there. no sign of mold or bad smells etc.
I’m thinking of shoving one of those round low wattage flat heating fans in the locker there too and closing the hatch most of the way so it warms up and the crystals can do their job.

replacement cap has been ordered.image.jpg
 
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Fresh Water? If so and you are sure it is the hatches, some of those round ones have an "O" ring seal on thescrew in cap. Got replacement ones at a hydraulic shop 2$ each.
 
Fresh Water? If so and you are sure it is the hatches, some of those round ones have an "O" ring seal on thescrew in cap. Got replacement ones at a hydraulic shop 2$ each.
Yes fresh water. Delicious actually.
I’m pretty sure the little o ring is the problem. It was all stretched out and kept the cap from threading properly. I am thinking this will fix the problem.
I’ll keep using heat and absorbent stuff to get it dry. Now I know about the problem I can keep an eye on it.
View attachment 61511

I use these in my boat and cabin, they work great and are reusable, no water container to empty like the Dry-Z-air.
worth a try! I might use both these and the crystals to get it dry faster.
 
I think you've found your problem Stizzla,those type of hatches are never 100% waterproof.Now that your boat is 80 lbs.lighter it's gunna fly,no need for new power.My Malibu has a similar hatch middle deck between seats,I made a mold and built a fiberglass fish box to fit inside that I can carry up to the cleaning station.Do you know what a cleaning station is for?:)
 
I think you've found your problem Stizzla,those type of hatches are never 100% waterproof.Now that your boat is 80 lbs.lighter it's gunna fly,no need for new power.My Malibu has a similar hatch middle deck between seats,I made a mold and built a fiberglass fish box to fit inside that I can carry up to the cleaning station.Do you know what a cleaning station is for?:)
Ouch, good burn!

I think I’ll be water free moving forward. You have to admit the 115 is nice on the 17.

I just keep a Calcutta body bag in there. One day I’ll use it.
 
Auto bilge didnt take care of that? Take the drain plug out and jack the tongue up.
I did that first. All The water stayed in there. It must mean that section doesn’t connect to the bilge.
 
I did that first. All The water stayed in there. It must mean that section doesn’t connect to the bilge.
it would, the drain hole must be pluged, id inspect a little further and see if its plugged and try and hit it with a jet of water. (lots of little passages from bow to stern)
 
it would, the drain hole must be pluged, id inspect a little further and see if its plugged and try and hit it with a jet of water. (lots of little passages from bow to stern)
Nice. Thanks
 
I’ll assess tomorrow. I tried a full stream of the hose in there earlier but nothing cleared.
 
I know you want the water gone but I doubt any damage has been done. Below the floor is fiberglassed. If water doesn't drain to the transom there is a blockage, as someone else mentioned. Don't bother drying things until you are sure that any water below the floor can drain out. Each cross-member has a small drainage hole so water should move back and drain. Clear those, flush it out and then dry things if you want to. Ventilation is always a good idea.
 
I know you want the water gone but I doubt any damage has been done. Below the floor is fiberglassed. If water doesn't drain to the transom there is a blockage, as someone else mentioned. Don't bother drying things until you are sure that any water below the floor can drain out. Each cross-member has a small drainage hole so water should move back and drain. Clear those, flush it out and then dry things if you want to. Ventilation is always a good idea.
yep dont dry it out, figure it out first
 
Wadday gonna do with that big old 12" bubba if youre not gonna bonk some fish?

Maybe that's one of those questions that doesn't need an answer...
 
They will be bonked my man. Don’t you worry about your boy Stizzla.
 
They will be bonked my man. Don’t you worry about your boy Stizzla.

Nice! I'm after the exact same knife, I thought my North Arm was gonna be all that but I'm not much of a finesse guy so those 12" of fury are calling my name.
 
Once you find the source of water and why it isn't draining I would leave the hatches off when the boat is stored to allow air to move and then peak in there once in awhile and make sure it is still draining out. Keep the bow up higher so all water drains to the transom drain.
 
Once you find the source of water and why it isn't draining I would leave the hatches off when the boat is stored to allow air to move and then peak in there once in awhile and make sure it is still draining out. Keep the bow up higher so all water drains to the transom drain.
Good call. I always store the boat with the bow as high as the jack will go.
I think the most important things for me to do moving forward are:
a) unclog the drains
b) build a shelter for it while waiting for $ to build my dream garage
c) use a stor dry heater and the crystals and or the desiccant granules.

I’m wondering if I can find some drain holes in the bilge and hit them with my air compressor?!
 
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