Stringer / deck replacement
- Thread starter Sangster21
- Start date
Sangster21
Member
Still working on the old Sangster, just glued the new transom in place, hopefully get some tabbing done tonight. This crappy weather hasn't been very helpful as of late. I am thinking of installing a new fuel tank with the rebuild. I have never run the boat, so I don't know what the fuel burn will be. Can anyone give me rough numbers for a 21 foot boat with an inline 6 mercruiser 165 hp?
Thanks
Alan
Thanks
Alan
Fish-Hunter
Active Member
We run that same engine in our 21' K&C, and at cruising speed (25mph) it burns about 6-6.5 gal/hr. 28mph is a solid 7 gal/hr. Our tank is just north of 40 gal, and I wish that it were closer to 60 gal. When we run the canal from Port Alberni and go 15 miles or so off shore, we always have two extra 5 gal jerry jugs with us, and usually need one of them to make it back comfortably (so that one doesn't have to worry about running dry in the Somass).
That is a good little engine, however it is 165HP at the flywheel. We figure that it puts about 150HP to the prop. As I understand it all of the newer engines rate the HP of the motor at the prop now. For us we would really like to have the 4.3L fuel injected Merc with 195HP at the prop. Have had several Merc guys tell us that the 4.3L being more efficient, burns about the same amount of fuel as the 165, producing the 30 more HP, allowing a Higher pitched prop and thus higher top end speed, getting you there sooner on the same fuel burn. At least it sounds good, and who doesn't like more HP.
Finished Business
Well-Known Member
been doing alot of research of going from carb to MPI...your numbers are pretty bang on and you are correct. they measure HP from the prop on new motors now.
the old Carbed 5.7 have the same horsepower as new MPI 5.0 (260hp). a 4.3 MPI (195hp) has roughly the same HP as carbed 5.0....
Sangster21
Member
Thought I would post a pic of the progress so far. I have the new transom in and tabbed in place. 4 stringers are in and I have started tabbing them in place. Main stringers will get 3 layers of 1708 and the secondary stringers have 2 layers of 1708. Originally the boat had a center stringer which ran from the bow to in front of the engine box so I will be making that up this week. It sure is a lot of work, but nothing too difficult so far. Not a big fan of grinding fibreglass for a whole week, but that is behind me now. Lots of work left, but pretty happy so far. Sure stiffens the hull getting the stringers in there, it was pretty woobly without any structure in it.
Alan
Alan
Attachments
Sangster21
Member
I'm thinking about replacing the fuel tank - the stock one is looking pretty rough. The original fuel tank is a steel belly tank - located just in front of the engine. I was thinking about going with saddle tanks (~25 gallons each) - under the driver and co-pilot seats. This would allow me to put a fish box where the original fuel tank was.
I'm looking for some opinions on whether this is a good idea.. Will putting the fuel tanks farther forward mess up the balance of the boat? Unfortunately I've never run the boat so don't know how it sat in the water previously...
I will be installing a 110lb kicker and 2 downriggers on the stern, so actually hoping the trim of the boat would be improved with the saddle tanks. Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated.
Alan
I'm looking for some opinions on whether this is a good idea.. Will putting the fuel tanks farther forward mess up the balance of the boat? Unfortunately I've never run the boat so don't know how it sat in the water previously...
I will be installing a 110lb kicker and 2 downriggers on the stern, so actually hoping the trim of the boat would be improved with the saddle tanks. Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated.
Alan
Fish-Hunter
Active Member
Looking good!
Port and starboard tanks farther forward could be good for keeping the nose down, but without knowing how she sits in the water with the motors that you will be useing and everything set up on the boat, it is only a guess as to how much moving that weight forward will change how she sits and rides. And once you put them in, you are kinda commited, seeing as you will be putting them below the deck I gather?
If you do go with Port and Starboard tanks, I would suggest connecting them together to keep the levels in them equal, so that you don't end up with one empty and one full causing a list. You could tee them together or just use two fuel level guages and switch from tank Port to tank Starboard alternately to take them down equally maintaining even heel.
The fish box I think would be great, I wish we could put one in our boat, coolers are APITA.
FH
Port and starboard tanks farther forward could be good for keeping the nose down, but without knowing how she sits in the water with the motors that you will be useing and everything set up on the boat, it is only a guess as to how much moving that weight forward will change how she sits and rides. And once you put them in, you are kinda commited, seeing as you will be putting them below the deck I gather?
If you do go with Port and Starboard tanks, I would suggest connecting them together to keep the levels in them equal, so that you don't end up with one empty and one full causing a list. You could tee them together or just use two fuel level guages and switch from tank Port to tank Starboard alternately to take them down equally maintaining even heel.
The fish box I think would be great, I wish we could put one in our boat, coolers are APITA.
FH
Sangster21
Member
The thought we had for the tanks were roughly 20 x 18 x18 inches underneath the boxes for the pilot/copilot seats. Planning on using the suspension tractor seats to help smooth the ride. As far as I know the tanks would have to be valved as you aren't supposed to have any openings in a tank below the top. It would be great to run a balance tube, but I don't think it is kosher pickles.
Fish-Hunter
Active Member
Yep, to tee them together you would have to come out of the top and use a transfer pump to keep them balanced, pretty sophisticated set up. Seeing as you will have the tanks above the main deck (in the seat boxes), electronic valves to switch between the two tanks is the way to go.
Also be sure to watch that the level of the top of the tanks is not above the carburator inlet or you could set up a siphon. If they are above, then you will have to use an anti siphon apparatus at the tank tops and these little beasts always seem to plug up and cause fuel flow greif over time.
Also be sure to watch that the level of the top of the tanks is not above the carburator inlet or you could set up a siphon. If they are above, then you will have to use an anti siphon apparatus at the tank tops and these little beasts always seem to plug up and cause fuel flow greif over time.
Sangster21
Member
Thanks for the offer GLG, I will have to take you up on that offer soon. I think I have talked myself into the dual tank situation to get a below deck fish locker. This of course begins the thought process of what is the best solution for a fish locker. I will have below deck space for a locker about 36" long, 32" between stringers and about 10" to the center stringer. Not sure that I want to have fish guck drooling aft to the bilge especially as it is an inboard application. Phewy. I could make up an insulated removable tray to keep the mess down. Does anyone have some good ideas and perhaps pictures of solutions that work well for you.
Alan
Alan
Sangster21
Member
Update. Stringers in, transom in, floor/deck tabbed and 2 layers of chop stand. I hummed and hawed about foaming below decks, but in the end safety won out and we are foamed. I did a very thorough job of encapsulating the new stringers and am not worried about water intrusion bellow decks. The attached photos show the stringers and the deck installed. The fish hold is about 32" x 36" and has a scupper to direct rain water to the bilge. I will build a removable tray so fish guck won't make its stink in my bilge area. Or at least that's my story and I am sticking to it!
I am going with two bilge pumps a new Rule 2000 gph and the existing 1700 GPH Rule. I patched all existing thru hulls so the only penetrations below water line is of course the outdrive bellows! I have the transom repair kit in my living room so I will have a brand new bellows. Ended up with 2 27 gal Moeller full tanks so was able to up fuel from about 45 gals to 54 gals. The original tank was steel and as repaired must have weighed about 80lbs empty, so a bit of a weight savings with the plastic tanks. Summer weather has been very challenging for a boat repair situated in my friends driveway. Hoping for a break in the weather soon.
Alan
I am going with two bilge pumps a new Rule 2000 gph and the existing 1700 GPH Rule. I patched all existing thru hulls so the only penetrations below water line is of course the outdrive bellows! I have the transom repair kit in my living room so I will have a brand new bellows. Ended up with 2 27 gal Moeller full tanks so was able to up fuel from about 45 gals to 54 gals. The original tank was steel and as repaired must have weighed about 80lbs empty, so a bit of a weight savings with the plastic tanks. Summer weather has been very challenging for a boat repair situated in my friends driveway. Hoping for a break in the weather soon.
Alan
Attachments
Sangster21
Member
I think I will roll gel coat onto the floor. Apparently the texture of the CSM and using a fairly stiff paint roller result in a a floor that is adequately non slip. Definitely not going to use vinyl or carpet. I figure if I stick with gel coat any repairs are easy to do. I am hoping to get some gel coat down this week and hope to drop the engine in before the weekend.
Alan
Alan
Sangster21
Member
Project gets bigger and bigger (as they typically do). I pulled off the hardtop so I could better acess the dash. I have re done the old dash to make it a bit more usefull. Headroom under the hardtop was only about 5'9" which is fine for shorties like me, but for the outrageously tall I am adding a 4" spacer under the window frame to bump up the headroom. I had to block off the sliding hatch in the cuddy as the stock Sangster hatch was pathetic. So flimsy I would be afraid of a wave or a missplaced step would have water or a body crashing into the cuddy. No good. Now to the pressing question, I have dies for 1" and 1-1/4" tube. I would like to make up a radar arch to attach to the hardtop. What material should I use? I am set up to weld alum or steel so either is OK. My initial thought is to use 1" dia SS tube. What do you think? I will post up some pics tonight of the progress so far.
Alan
Alan
Sangster21
Member
Took a couple of pics today in between sanding, grinding, cutting and fiberglassing. Whew it sure has been hot the last little while. Not much shade to be had where I have been working lately. I think the 1" SS tube will work out well for the radar arch. Can anyone recommend the best place to buy the material? I live in Courtenay so either Nanaimo or Campbell river is close enough.
Alan
Alan
Attachments
Sangster21
Member
The boat from Glad! I managed to spray on a nice coat of white Endura paint today on the hull and the cap for the hardtop. Finally I can get to some assembly. I need to choose between an ez steer bar or remote control for my kicker. I have a Mercury 9.9 Pro Kicker and will use a fixed bracket. Does any one with a Mercruiser have some advice on using either the tie bar or the remote control. If I can raise and lower the kicker without having to disconnect the tie bar I think I would be fine with the ez steer bar.
Attachments
Similar threads
