Rigging question
- Thread starter Oscar162
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trophywife
Crew Member
TC requirement for Commercial believe. i would definitely outboard it.
ship happens
Well-Known Member
Yep x2 on the otegar clamps
The transport Canada regs on pleasure craft is very minimal. As long as the fuel hose and wiring is Marine rated. They have a heat range to the material which makes it Marine rated.
The fuel bowls only need to be metal if mounted inboard inside an engine compartment.
Parker marine fuel line is the best I've found and it's readily available locally. Not cheap but you get what you pay for
Side note, I would mount it up higher. Make it real easy to access and drain. Put a primer bulb right at the input of the filter. Use a good one with EPA standard.
The transport Canada regs on pleasure craft is very minimal. As long as the fuel hose and wiring is Marine rated. They have a heat range to the material which makes it Marine rated.
The fuel bowls only need to be metal if mounted inboard inside an engine compartment.
Parker marine fuel line is the best I've found and it's readily available locally. Not cheap but you get what you pay for
Side note, I would mount it up higher. Make it real easy to access and drain. Put a primer bulb right at the input of the filter. Use a good one with EPA standard.
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Oscar162
Well-Known Member
Thx for chiming in…. It’s just sitting in there at the moment, will mount it as high as I can. I’ll checkout Parker for lines… cheers
ship happens
Well-Known Member
Thx for chiming in…. It’s just sitting in there at the moment, will mount it as high as I can. I’ll checkout Parker for lines… cheers
Greenline has it. They can set you up with the clamps also. One other thing is try and stay away from Teflon tape. Grab some permatex pipe sealant at lordco or wherever. For the fuel fittings. Cheers
mbowers
Well-Known Member
I always put a spacer of 1/2in black starboard / plastic between separator housing and the wall it is mounted on. That way you can get fingers or wrench around the filter and hopefully avoid cross threading the new filter like mechanic did on my boat. Was fun to find that a year later when I did my own replacement.
Fritz
Active Member
Nice clean looking job dude,
This is just an industry standard practice that when you can, you try your best to keep electrical terminals and switches above fuel lines when doing runs. As mentioned, if you have fuel vapours back there then you have bigger problems.
As far as clamps on the fuel lines I still use hose clamps but not automotive garbage, the Swede hose clamps (ABA) have a rolled edge and the tooth slots for the worm gear are crimped instead of punched through holes . I like gear clamps because if I ever had a problem I could connect to a kicker tank easier in a pinch.
Hope this helps
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Oscar162
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the note…. Ya it’s getting pretty busy back there. I’m going to poke a couple of holes through the transom tomo to accommodate main/ kicker rigging, that will also dictate where things land. Fuel is coming from saddle tanks on either side… bit of a puzzle.
ship happens
Well-Known Member
Brando
Well-Known Member
Nice clean work. You can get those hose barbs in aluminum if you want to avoid the future corrosion issues.
Fritz
Active Member
Again, it’s what I like. The 316 SS clamps are awesome. Oetiker clamps are great until you have to take them off and I find the sizing annoying. As far as the width is concerned I still prefer it.
They are better lamps in my opinion
Fritz
Active Member
That’s a really good point, that photo was taken during the vid and I couldn’t get the aluminum Raycor ones. I also bought a Raycor aluminum fitting with a shut off for the kicker in case my primer bulb failed.
Brass can definitely cause problems
trophywife
Crew Member
i double gear clamp pretty much everything on my boat with the nuts sides opposite if that makes sense.
all the fuel system for sure.
all the fuel system for sure.
Brando
Well-Known Member
Abyc requires double clamp on the fill only single on the feed/vent and has criteria for clamp width based on hose size. Thats just the minimum no reason you can’t add to it. Googling abyc h24 (gas) or 34(diesel) you can find all the info worth a read when setting up/replacing a system. not sure if tc has different guidelines.
Max123
Well-Known Member
Couple of notes:
1) When you drain the bowl on the fuel water separator, do you have room to get a container underneath? I would also mount the separator on a spacer so that the filter isn't so tight to the hull - gives you a bit of room if you need to get a strap wrench on it.
2) Here's a weird one. When I try to drain the fuel bowl on my water separator, it just drains/siphons everything back into the tank and nothing comes out the bowl drain. I looked this up, and its a fairly common problem. You might want an isolation valve on the inlet to the filter, but I'd be curious if others have experience with this
3) Lastly, both batteries are on starboard side. Captain is on starboard side. If you are running with minimum load/passengers, the boat will likely tilt to starboard. If you consider swapping the batteries to the other side, you will have a more 'neutral' setup.
1) When you drain the bowl on the fuel water separator, do you have room to get a container underneath? I would also mount the separator on a spacer so that the filter isn't so tight to the hull - gives you a bit of room if you need to get a strap wrench on it.
2) Here's a weird one. When I try to drain the fuel bowl on my water separator, it just drains/siphons everything back into the tank and nothing comes out the bowl drain. I looked this up, and its a fairly common problem. You might want an isolation valve on the inlet to the filter, but I'd be curious if others have experience with this
3) Lastly, both batteries are on starboard side. Captain is on starboard side. If you are running with minimum load/passengers, the boat will likely tilt to starboard. If you consider swapping the batteries to the other side, you will have a more 'neutral' setup.
ship happens
Well-Known Member
This is one reason why a proper primer bulb is needed at the input of the filter housing. No need for a primer bulb between the engine and the filter. The bulb works as a check valve, also allows you to pump fuel in a troubleshooting characteristic, and when replacing filters allows you to fill it, allowing to bleed off air and check for fuel leaks etc. Just solves alot of problems
It doesn't need to be right at the filter, however as long at its convenient to operate. Closer to the tank the bulb will work better, so wherever that ends up in your system.
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