Pulling halibut anchor with a sailboat

[AvidReeler]

I’d like to go halibut fishing in my sailboat but I’m not sure if I can pull the anchor with it as I only go 5 kn. I see how a lot of power boats use an anchor retrieval system but it seems like they have a lot more speed going when they are pulling the anchor in order to get it to where their Scotchman is so the scotchman can take the weight.

My boat is a diesel 14 hp with a lot of torque but only a speed of 5 knots. Also I weigh 5000 lbs so maybe trying to anchor in 400 ft of water is unrealistic.

Another way I thought but I could pull it is by tieing it off to a stern clear and using the boat to pull the anchor and free it. Then using my 12v prawn hauler to pull it up.

Any insight is greatly appreciated!

 

[MadJigga]

I’d like to go halibut fishing in my sailboat but I’m not sure if I can pull the anchor with it as I only go 5 kn. I see how a lot of power boats use an anchor retrieval system but it seems like they have a lot more speed going when they are pulling the anchor in order to get it to where their Scotchman is so the scotchman can take the weight.

My boat is a diesel 14 hp with a lot of torque but only a speed of 5 knots. Also I weigh 5000 lbs so maybe trying to anchor in 400 ft of water is unrealistic.

Another way I thought but I could pull it is by tieing it off to a stern clear and using the boat to pull the anchor and free it. Then using my 12v prawn hauler to pull it up.

Any insight is greatly appreciated!

Cool idea. But I think your crazy. If **** hits the fan.....you can’t power out of bad current/weather etc.

 

[halimark]

NEVER recommend tying your anchor rope to the stern for any reason or amount of time. Sure way of being sucked under when (not if) **** happens. I have pulled my hali anchor from 260 ft with my 9.9 kicker, when big motor quit. Not sure I would do as norm. Not sure where you plan to fish, some places are just safer than others, calm, protected bay, hump or shallow area on good slow currents may be OK. Would not recommend at Constance in Vic on any current day.

HM

 

[chris73]

I never go much faster than 6 - 7 mph when pulling the anchor. But as HM said, don't tie off to a stern cleat and find soft current areas. Good luck and be safe!

 

[Newf]

I pull the anchor at 3.5 to 4 Knots with my Ranger Tug. (30hp volvo-penta) When I see the ring running over the chain I bump the speed to 5 knots and probably tow a little longer than I need too to ensure that I've got the anchor in the ring. On several occasions I've had the anchor go back to bottom which is why I give it a little more speed now and a longer run. I don't anchor in stronger than two knots of current and have never had an issue and pull from a bow to stern line. With your max speed being 5 Knots, pick your days with good currents and would also recommend doing it with an experienced person before attempting it yourself.

 

[Slabbedout]

I would guess pulling it up should be possible in decent current / weather situations. Staying on the pick in deep water could be tricky though.

 

[Seagirt]

I’ve anchored a few times in my little 25’ sailboat using the same bow to stern line method I use on my power boat. No problem pulling the anchor but I found the boat would behave differently than a planing hull and sometimes sail forward over the anchor in a head wind and the fishing lines would catch the anchor line. I think 300’ was about the deepest I anchored. If you know your boat and the sailing basics you’ll figure it out. There shouldn’t be a need to use your prawn puller. Pm me of you have more questions.

 

[trophywife]

use a drift sock and scotchman combo with a snatch block. i used to pull my anchor and prawntraps this way.. slow and safe.

 

[AvidReeler]

So

I pull the anchor at 3.5 to 4 Knots with my Ranger Tug. (30hp volvo-penta) When I see the ring running over the chain I bump the speed to 5 knots and probably tow a little longer than I need too to ensure that I've got the anchor in the ring. On several occasions I've had the anchor go back to bottom which is why I give it a little more speed now and a longer run. I don't anchor in stronger than two knots of current and have never had an issue and pull from a bow to stern line. With your max speed being 5 Knots, pick your days with good currents and would also recommend doing it with an experienced person before attempting it yourself.

so when u say pick your currents, I should go when it’s a tide change and it’s a pretty weak tide (less than 1 knot) ?

Thanks

 

[AvidReeler]

NEVER recommend tying your anchor rope to the stern for any reason or amount of time. Sure way of being sucked under when (not if) **** happens. I have pulled my hali anchor from 260 ft with my 9.9 kicker, when big motor quit. Not sure I would do as norm. Not sure where you plan to fish, some places are just safer than others, calm, protected bay, hump or shallow area on good slow currents may be OK. Would not recommend at Constance in Vic on any current day.

HM

Would you recommend that I tie it to the bow and pull the anchor while in reverse?

 

[halimark]

No, I would recommend always pulling from the bow. Rig a line from bow to stern and connect to that with quick clip anchor release. Very hard to explain but there are some very good pics and drawings on here. Put hali anchoring in the search block and be prepared to read. There are lots of very good safe advice, most will still be valid for your scenario. Boat changes but safe way to anchor, set and pull varies little.

HM

 

[Seagirt]

The anchoring system uses a line that is tied from the bow (on my sailboat I tie to the anchor roller) and back along the hull to a cleat or strong tie point at the stern. The anchor line is then attached via a carabiner to that bow/stern rope. This allows the anchor line to slide forward to the bow while you are on anchor, but when it comes time to pull the anchor you can motor forward and the carabiner will slide down the rope to the stern as you pull it. I sent you a pm, get a hold of me if you can't find more info on the anchoring system.

HM[/QUOTE]

Would you recommend that I tie it to the bow and pull the anchor while in reverse?

 

[Seagirt]

Although halibut fishing requires currents slow enough to allow you to get your gear to the bottom I think Newf might be referring to the difficulty of getting home once you are done fishing and find yourself facing a head current of similar speed to your 5knot cruising speed. This is sailboating common sense and I'm hoping you are experienced enough to navigate around in your sailboat.

So

so when u say pick your currents, I should go when it’s a tide change and it’s a pretty weak tide (less than 1 knot) ?

Thanks

 

[fogged in]

Typically you fish for halibut in 200 plus feet of water with a minimum of 500' of line to your anchor and chain.
To do this in a sailboat with a maximum speed of 5 knots is playing a very dangerous game.
Don't try it on a big tide change as the change can come quickly and get up to 2 knots in short order.
A long slack tide that does not exceed .5 or 1 knot might work, but for sure one day you will get a surprise and you could be in big trouble.
Not worth the risk. Why don't you just drift and forget the anchoring?
That's how I see it.

 

[trophywife]

Typically you fish for halibut in 200 plus feet of water with a minimum of 500' of line to your anchor and chain..

500'??? only if anchoring for Hali overnight. lol

200' of water, I use 50' chain and 300' rode. 50' tag line.

 

[Rockfish]

I would think the big risk for your boat is getting the anchor rode or lead line and possibly a small float attached to it caught under your boat jammed in-between your rudder and deep keel hull or wrapped on your shaft drive at the prop. In effect you can end up anchored to the bottom by your prop. At that point, in great conditions and if you have diving gear on board you could go under and cut your boat free. The problem is that the conditions are more than likely not going to be good and you may not be a skilled, fit, diver. You may also get lucky and be able to access your large float and cut your self free assuming you still can get to it but that still may not free the rode or lead line from your propeller and it possibly interfering with propulsion. There are guys on this forum who have almost sunk their boat with waves filling it up over the transom after getting caught up on their leg.

The first time we pulled a deep water anchor with my currant boat, after it was pulled we managed to screw up and get the small float the floating lead rope went through (ironically there to keep it on the surface and away from the motor leg and prop.) somehow caught under the pod and jammed between the pod and a large trim tab blade on the transom. We were lucky in that we able to pull it tight, tie it off, power back and put it on the trailer where it was easy to clear. There are lots of ways to screw up and the less experience and worse the current, wind and sea state, the easier it is to do.

It sounds like you have lots of pulling power with that high torque diesel but not speed. The guys who are good at pulling the anchor may well need to use both at times. In good conditions your power/torque alone may be enough to pull the anchor and if it is stuck on the bottom, break the safety release mechanism on the anchor so you are pulling fom the front of the anchor to release it. Sometimes in bad conditions boat speed allows you to get out fast away beside your rode and get ahead of it without crossing or getting caught in it. Waves and current makes it more difficult to see your position relative to the anchor rode as you are running up beside it and drift and wind and loss of situational awareness may increase the chance of getting caught in it if you can only pull at slow speed.

I am still learning about deep water anchoring and at my age don't think I will ever get really good at it. Lucky, I fish with guys that are really skilled and experienced at it and I am more than happy to follow their instructions. If you are going to give it a try, having someone along who is really good at it the first few times is a good idea and limit yourself to very slow current days and flat seas.

 

[fishchaser]

The reason anchor retrieval systems work is the boat moves at a speed that creates drag against the poly ball which allows the anchor rope to slide through the slider ring as the boat is moving faster than the poly ball. If you are going with a 5 knot current and only moving 6 to 7 knots I doubt you will have the necessary speed to create the necessary drag to free and retrieve your anchor. If you have 500 to 600 feet of line out plus 50 feet of chain with will take you a long period of time even if it worked. If you do decide to try this method I would use an oversize poly ball that will generate the most drag possible to allow the anchor rope to slide through the slider ring.

I watched a person in a sailboat try to free his anchor using a retrieval system with a large May tide when he was halibut fishing and he could not get the necessary speed required to drive over his anchor as required to free it from the bottom. He ended up cutting the line and donating the anchor.

This retrieval method in my opinion should never be tried the first time without an someone on board that has performed this themselves. You must never let the line get directly behind your boat or you will risk propeller and rudder entanglement and damage.

Good luck and stay safe.

 

[Corey_lax]

Just float. Don't bother with anchoring. You'll be fine.

 

[Seagirt]

Good advice written by many here. Start with someone who knows something, start in easier areas with slower currents, and gain experience. All boating and fishing requires risk and anchoring for halibut via sailboat is risky but falls into the norm of what we all get up to out there on the water.

5knots is fast enough to pull your anchor if you have at least a medium sized scotch man. Adding the drift sock that Trophywife mentioned will help too. And if you stay anchored up approaching a switch to a fast current you risk having to leave your anchor behind. And, you risk the other things that those of us on slow boats risk every time we go out, whether fishing or not.

 

[trophywife]

The reason anchor retrieval systems work is the boat moves at a speed that creates drag against the poly ball which allows the anchor rope to slide through the slider ring as the boat is moving faster than the poly ball. If you are going with a 5 knot current and only moving 6 to 7 knots I doubt you will have the necessary speed to create the necessary drag to free and retrieve your anchor. If you have 500 to 600 feet of line out plus 50 feet of chain with will take you a long period of time even if it worked. If you do decide to try this method I would use an oversize poly ball that will generate the most drag possible to allow the anchor rope to slide through the slider ring.

I watched a person in a sailboat try to free his anchor using a retrieval system with a large May tide when he was halibut fishing and he could not get the necessary speed required to drive over his anchor as required to free it from the bottom. He ended up cutting the line and donating the anchor.

This retrieval method in my opinion should never be tried the first time without an someone on board that has performed this themselves. You must never let the line get directly behind your boat or you will risk propeller and rudder entanglement and damage.

Good luck and stay safe.

add a drift sock, not a bigger ball.