Leaf Springs

TGofers

Member
Looking at replacing. My leaf springs. Looks pretty basic. I was thinking of supporting the boat on the trailer still but putting blocks underneath just in case. Can I still replace with boat on trailer or should I put it in the water and replace springs. Does it mater?
 
Just block up the trailer frame behind and in front of the the axles so the axles hang free with the tires an inch off the ground. Then support the axles as you remove the leaf springs. Not too bad if you have lots of blocks and a good jack. TF
 
be alot easier if boat was off then you can get to leafs, you can get to bolts etc from top and not laying under a lot of weight as you bust and torque on the old nuts as sometimes you may have to cut them off with a zip saw...
 
IMO you are better off doing the leaf springs with the trailer empty. In order to jack up the trailer high enough you will need a jack with a high lift and high tonnage rating, not your canadian tyre special. Blocking can be an issue as well, unless you are working on a concrete base, you can expect jackstands to sink unless a plywood platform is onder the legs. Please do not use cinder blocks, use 4x4 wooden cribbing at the very least. Have everything on hand before you start, including new U bolts, and new hardware for the spring eyes. You will likely need a grinder and cut off blades as well as a small sledge and punch, so eye, lung and eye protection as well. An impact gun is handy as well as a torch, but not necessary. Some good waterproof grease to put in the spring eyes will help prevent future wear and prevent squeeks as well.
 
Put never seize on the threads of the bolts you replace. Next time will be much easier.
 
If you use an anti-sieze compound make sure it is marine (salt water) compatible. One that l know is good is called mariners choice, if you can find it. I got a lifetime supply in the US a few years ago for about 15 $.
 
Awesome. Thanks guys. Yeah, Trailer will be supported by large 8x8 wooden ties that run the width of the trailer. If I am getting under it, it won't be a widow maker!! looked at the pricing of these and not too bad. 65 a piece. Mine are rusted badly so figure may as well replace now rather than run into any issues.
 
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How does one know when the leaf springs are too rusty? I took mine to Road Runner when I was having a new axle built and the guy took a quick look and said they were fine. There is considerable surface rust.
 
Some leaf springs have metal bands around the full set of springs, one on each side. The guy who supplies springs for Shoreland'r trailers told me that when they rust and fall off, it's time to buy new springs

My advice for the OP who is about to swap his springs out: a disk grinder is helpful but if you want to cut to the chase and get things done, get a Sawzall with a good metal cutting blade. Grinders are useless for getting into tight places. Also, those tight places might have your brake lines near them-- easy to nick or cut them with a grinder--- Sawzall is better precision and easier to control
 
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