Kicker steering options

[SaintSix]

Well im going to be in the market for a kicker. I have a 190 Sea runner hardtop and do a lot of fishing solo. My concerns are being able to steer if I hook up on a salmon, cant exactly go in side while playing a fish. So im curious what set up you use to combat this problem, auto pilot? suicide knob on the back of the boat? guess Im not sure whats out there and pros and cons of that system. Pics are always welcome

 

[bigbruce]

This is what I use on my Striper. Works great.
www.remotetroll.com
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cv7evUKDdYc

 

[SalmonSeeker]

I have a Goetz Trol-Eze on my Merc 9.9 Bigfoot kicker. It's a hydraulic system controlled by a toggle switch mounted on a cable. I can hold it in my hand and steer while working the down riggers or playing a fish, so it's a good option if you fish solo. The biggest challenge is remembering which way to operate the toggle for port and starboard. Not too bad now that I'm used to it, but always an issue when I have new people on the boat. Makes for some interesting times at the Cap...lol.

Distributed by Western Marine, so easy to get.

I've had issues with corrosion on the steering cylinder. The cylinder body is stainless steel, while the ends are aluminum. Result is galvanic corrosion on the aluminium bits. Mainly cosmetic so far (3 yrs), but I'm guessing the cylinder will need to be replaced eventually.

Hope this helps...

 

[JAC]

Garmin Tr1 gold are awesome I'm going to buy another one for my boat I sold my last one a few boats ago. If you have hyd steering on your hewes already you can add a rear helm. I think the Panther units can be troublesome so I would steer clear of them. You could add a autopilot to your main motor and leave kicker connected with tie bar but a lot of autopilots don't work well at slow speeds.



190 hewes is that the new model?

 

[Fishalot]

Somewhere in a box I have a very early Scotty system that consisted of a bracket, motor, bungee cord and a cable with toggle. The bracket bolted to the dash with the motor on a pivot and the bungee cord to hold the motor wheel tight to the steering wheel. It was powered and the motor would turn clockwise or counterclockwise depending on toggle movement. Sounds awkward but it worked great.

 

[casper5280]

Somewhere in a box I have a very early Scotty system that consisted of a bracket, motor, bungee cord and a cable with toggle. The bracket bolted to the dash with the motor on a pivot and the bungee cord to hold the motor wheel tight to the steering wheel. It was powered and the motor would turn clockwise or counterclockwise depending on toggle movement. Sounds awkward but it worked great.

I have the motor and toggle switch for this system if any one can use it. Don't have any other parts for it though. Agree it was a good little system.

 

[profisher]

The best is a true pilot (mine is a Com Nav 1420) that turns both engines. Hydraulic cylinders on both the kicker and the main and a liquid valve to isolate one or operate both from the helm(s). A 2nd helm closer to the gear is also a good idea. I disagree that a true pilot can't steer at slow speeds. I've been on the pilot in the nastiest wind and tide with it steering perfectly straight while a fellow guide with the Tr1 had to shut his off and fire up his main and take over the wheel by hand. That system couldn't keep the boat straight with only the kicker turning and not the main too.

 

[JAC]

I

The best is a true pilot (mine is a Com Nav 1420) that turns both engines. Hydraulic cylinders on both the kicker and the main and a liquid valve to isolate one or operate both from the helm(s). A 2nd helm closer to the gear is also a good idea. I disagree that a true pilot can't steer at slow speeds. I've been on the pilot in the nastiest wind and tide with it steering perfectly straight while a fellow guide with the Tr1 had to shut his off and fire up his main and take over the wheel by hand. That system couldn't keep the boat straight with only the kicker turning and not the main too.

Yes there are some autopilots that will work at slow trolling speed but there are a lot that don't work below 2 miles. I had a few issue with the tr 1 but once I figured it out worked great no trouble in heavy wind. You have to adjust the sea state feature if your boat is getting blown around.

 

[trophy fisher]

Does anyone know if there is a way to connect a kicker to the main inboard with a steering cable? I have a ezsteer connected but it is a pain with the power tilt kicker. The rod hits my swim grid brace before the kicker is trimmed all the way out of the water so I have to reach in the water to disconnect it. Not to bad to do when it is warm and calm but forget it when cold and rough. I've broken the rod once and a coupler twice. Need to figure out something better.

I tried just steering the kicker but the main was too much resistance for proper control. I was thinking about making a steering lever off the mains steering rod to a cable link to the kicker. I don't have hydraulic steering. I have cable steering with hydraulic assist. I can't find any product that fits this application. Any ideas??

 

[dmurph]

I switched to the intellisteer system last summer. Had to many issues with the panther. Intellisteer seems good so far, the wireless remote may end up being the weak point of this system, batteries are odd expensive kind and it burns through them quickly. What's more concerning is the fact the remote has to be split via two small screws and it is a nightmare to get back together.

 

[Gray Escape]

I have the Goetz Troll-eze hydraulic system on our boat.
Bot it from Dan Parker at Monaro Marine, they installed it for us too.
Flawless operation, has never let us down, simple and quiet.
5 years in and the only issue I have had is the switch on the lanyard nows needs replacement.
Ordered the new switch and expect we'll be good for another 5 years.

 

[SaintSix]

Looks like ill have to do some research now, more options then I thought. Jac yes the 190 is the new model sea runner, they have a 190 and 210

 

[terrin]

The best is a true pilot (mine is a Com Nav 1420) that turns both engines. Hydraulic cylinders on both the kicker and the main and a liquid valve to isolate one or operate both from the helm(s). A 2nd helm closer to the gear is also a good idea. I disagree that a true pilot can't steer at slow speeds. I've been on the pilot in the nastiest wind and tide with it steering perfectly straight while a fellow guide with the Tr1 had to shut his off and fire up his main and take over the wheel by hand. That system couldn't keep the boat straight with only the kicker turning and not the main too.

What type of Hydraulic cylinder do you have for the kicker? Does it connect right onto the outboard with hydraulic lines running into it from inside the boat and if so how does all that hold up to salt water? I'm currently running my inboard leg connected to kicker with ez steer but want to upgrade to an auto pilot. My hydraulic cylinder for the inboard is a wagner. Thanks for any info

 

[barrie]

Trophy fisher
Do you have hydrolic steering on your I/O? I steer my kicker from either main helm, or outside station using my hydrolic steering system. It does require stop gate valves on the lines and a cylinder on your kicker. Both stern drive and kicker move at the same time. I used the Goertz Troll eze system on my other boats for 15 years, it works real good and is your cheapest Option. It's easy to install, and everything is rebuild able if it fails.

 

[trophy fisher]

I have cable power assist steering with the mercruiser cylinder. I'm concidering finding/making a cable that will go from the hydraulic ram to the kicker.

 

[barrie]

Oh Ive got no idea on Cable steering, Never had a system like that. Personally I think you will be happy with the Goertz Troll Eze.

 

[profisher]

Terrin, my cylinders and helms are Telaflex. The cylinder connects right up to the kicker where any remote steering would attach. For cylinder clearance when the engine is tilted out of the water you have to cut off the clamps that you use to fasten the motor to the transom or bracket. Then use 4 bolts through the existing holes in the engines mounting bracket to secure it to the transom or bracket. If you don't cut these off the cylinder will come up against the clamps and stop the engine from tilting up fully and also damage the cylinder. As far as corrosion goes the system is the same as for the main outboard...all made for the marine environment. Just rinse off after use with fresh water. The lines attach to the cylinder from where ever you route them from your boats existing hydraulic system.

 

[Revenge]

have a look at this system . I have it on my boat and it's problem free. Not sure how to post the link but this is what its called
SeaStar Kicker Cable Tie Bar

 

[dance a jig]

I would connect the Main motor to the Kicker motor with a Panther steering rod which mounts on the front of the kicker, and the front of the main on the steering cylinder. I like such system much better than an easy troll hooked to the aft end of the motors. Find a seastar helm unit that mates with your current hydraulic on ebay for $250-300 new, plus hoses, fittings, steering wheel and some elbow grease, and you have the two station steering. Fabricating a custom SS part to mount on the steering cylinder is the only outside help I needed. good luck. DAJ

 

[profisher]

I've used tie bars in the past but the vibration of the kicker creates a rattle that is worse at certain helm positions mainly when tension between engines is minimal or extreme. Some people may not mind small rattles buy they drive me nuts. I got tired of continually trying to get rid of the noise and went hydraulic on both with no bar between.