how should i set up my downriggers for dummy flashers and inline flashers

[bardfromedson]

hey guys. im getting all my gear straightened out for my big trip out to the west side of haidi gwaii. with the huge fish numbers expected this year I want to get rid of the inline flashers and go with dummies. im trying to decide on the set up to go with. I have old style electrics with long booms. I have used the tuna cord set up to get rid of the stopper beads and liked it. out at the charlottes my game plan is hopefully use plugs and spoons most of the time but may go to bait if the bite is slow. if really slow i can try with the inline flashers.

how would this set up work or can you guys suggest something better.
braid tied to cord to act as stop. about a 5 ft section of cord tied to heavy duty barrel swivel. off bottom of swivel another section of cord to snubber and ball. off the back of the swivel a 48inch release connected to swivel with conector sleeve and no snap. dummy flashers off balls when running bait. pull the flashers off and use the same releases for plugs and big spoons.

I like the idea of no stopper beads but don't like the 4 knots this would have. I find the stacker clips a bit of a pain in the butt. i have read lots of set ups on here but not a lot of setups that are built for dummy flashers.

i have read about the set up with 2 long pieces of mono as well that would also work for this application as well im guessing. i have some 150 pound leader material but not sure if it would be strong enough. please pick apart my thinking and give me your thoughts.

 

[Tugcapitan]

Hey there, have a great trip to the west side I'm jealous! I guided 5 years on the west coast off of Kano inlet /Rennel sound area. Good idea on the dummy flashers. We used to run dummies on 8' 150 test mono with Hali gear swivels. Recommend down rigger style clips just above the ball so they can be quickly removed when fish are on or switching tactics. Also used crimps instead of knots to clean it up. Also used a cable stopper or two a few inches above ball so that the dummy clips can't come sliding up the line when putting speed on to dodge debris or what have you. Tomic plugs were huge for us in July with #500, #212, #232 and #601 being favorites under different light conditions. Tubby's or 7", even the little ones all worked. Hell, everything worked up there! Bait used to outfish plugs, spoons and hoochies in August. Good luck!

 

[Sharphooks]

Sounds like you have the right idea---keep it simple!

When I first read about the tuna cord set-up you mentioned I thought that was pretty elegant but not quite as simple as I'd like to keep things....

About 5 feet of halibut gangen tied to your braid (like you pointed out---the knot that joins the 2 lines acts like a stopper on the DR)

Then, snubber to the end of the gangen, clip for the ball at the end of the snubber, 6 feet of heavy duty mono clipped to No. 2 connector point on the DR ball, flasher on the business end, clip on a Scotty release approx. 4 to 5 feet above the DR ball and you're cruising on Broadway for love.

If you have a DR ball with only one connector point, you'll need the two Scotty clips---


I use Berkley plastic coated cable for my dummy flasher (crimped on both ends)---reason---when I hook up with Mr. Suitcase and get the ball up to the surface, I want that dummy flasher OUT of the water--- I reach down, grab the cable floating off the end of the ball and haul both flasher and ball over the gunnel---plastic coated is easy on the hands


Last but not least--- PROP PROTECTOR. I don't think the words "dummy flasher" should be in a sentence without the words prop protector included. For me it's critical---- if I get cable wrapped around the prop of my kicker, it's back to the dock (or fish off the main engine) ---

Results may vary, but sooner or later, that dummy flasher is going to get sucked into something that's on the end of a shaft

 

[Karma-Kazi]

Sharphooks! I want say you are a great forum member and we are lucky to have you! You give the most detailed replies and they are very informative! Not to mention your posts of your freshwater journeys!

I use both systems that you do and love them! Have yet to have issues with the kicker as my prop is protected. Howevera couple years ago I had a pink swim thru the protector and stall the kicker so im sure the dummy will end up there!

-KK

 

[Sharphooks]

Yo, K-K---thanks for that. Truth is, the hottest salt chuck tips I ever got from anywhere was from guys on this forum---HUGE wealth of info and intel here.

Here's a close-up of what I do on the gangnen to braid deal---





I tried using heavy duty swivels on both ends but didn't trust them due to oxidation---a simple knot is all you need for the connection (also learned on this site) , and of course that knot will replace those Scotty DR stops (both the red ones and the chartreuse ones)---That was probably the HOTTEST tip ever----how to never have to use a freaking Scotty DR stop again for the rest of my life! ---I always thought they were a PITA, for use on both cable and braid.

Knot for halibut gangen to braid--- I use a nail-knot ---what you'd use to connect fly line to fly backing---the braid gets doubled over which makes for a burly connection when you cinch it down. I do a whip-finish on the knot for extra protection: I use a fly tying bobbin, spin waxed thread back and forth over the knot a couple of times, whip finish it, then cover with epoxy

Overkill I'm sure, but I get a good solid season out of it and those knots get bounced against rock ledges in some of the places I fish and the thread is good for tapering both ends to minimize abrasion

And as long as we're on the subject of pink salmon and prop protectors:

 

[Redfisher]

Has anyone figured out how to do this if you are fishing wire rather than braid? I prefer wire and have my gangen and wire meet at a swivel but it is too big to easily go through the scotty lead on the boom. If you have solved this let me know...and a picture might be worth a thousand words.