2021 JaxonCraft Build Thread

You want to make sure the shore power wiring is correct.
If the plug is not dedicated to shore power, you could run into an issue if the shore power 'trips' and you run your batteries dry on the inverter.

Agreed.

Once everything is done on the boat, build, power installed , electronics, everything we are getting a complete survey done.

We had planned to do that from the start.

It just makes good sense. Peer review in professional firms is both common and welcomed.

Everyone makes mistakes on occasion, or misses something for the simple reason that no one is perfect every single time.

It also makes a good starting point in a boat's career and shows a high level of care and diligence on the part of the owner.

I am in my mid 60's. if we can keep the boat for 15 years, a good maintenance history and an initial survey and regular surveys will add both to the value of the boat and its' desirability.

Hopefully, by then the motors will have thousands of reliable hours on them, and a detailed maintenance history will prove that the boat can show it's age respectively.

Who knows one of your kids or grandkids may end up buying our boat and repowering it, perhaps electrically?
 
I will need to ask Robert more questions on this matter. He spoke to Blue Sea and followed their directions on the whole set up. We have 30 Amp Shore power if that makes a difference. I took grade 10 Electric shop 50 some years ago and know no less than nothing about electrical functions and issues.
It may be you have an inverter and only the one plug is live when the inverter is on. I have a similar setup where only a few devices are run by the inverter but all under shore power. I have 30 amp power with a Blue Sea panel as well. My boat is a Commander 30 and most are wired like mine and dont know of any issues. Basically does not matter how many plugs you have but what load your shore power or inverter can handle without tripping a breaker. By limiting to one outlet I guess they are trying to prevent overload. Be interesting to see what Robert comnes back with.
 
It may be you have an inverter and only the one plug is live when the inverter is on. I have a similar setup where only a few devices are run by the inverter but all under shore power. I have 30 amp power with a Blue Sea panel as well. My boat is a Commander 30 and most are wired like mine and don't know of any issues. Basically does not matter how many plugs you have but what load your shore power or inverter can handle without tripping a breaker. By limiting to one outlet I guess they are trying to prevent overload. Be interesting to see what Robert comes back with.

I think we are set up the same and wired as per Blue Sea Specs.

While charging batteries and connected to Shore power, one plug is live . Not charging batteries then both plugs are live.

I am assuming boat electrics, cabin lights, etc are up and running while on Shore Power.
 
I wanted to try and lay out the dash console and describe the layout but my photos are not the best. Hopefully you will get the idea.

Objectives.

I wanted things to be simple and have at least for my OCD ADHD brain a proper flow . We have to also have to deal with the height discrepancies between my wife and I for that reason we have places the engine controls on the dash as opposed to being to the right of the Pilot seat or wall mounted. The seats are on sliders and allow for front and back movement which of course would make side placement of the engine controls a compromise for both of us.

Originally we were going to have the Furuno 12" display flush mounted in the dash but the new Furunos are too deep and had to be mounted overhead. One item that the hole has not been cut for is the remote joystick controller for the Furuno.


The Dash Panel

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Starting on the dash top surface

Left side Man Over Board Safety Unit


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Starboard Top Side

Bennet Trim Tabs Switch

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Under White Gauge Protective Lids Individual Suzuki Digital Engine panels

Below that Engine Start Panels and integrated troll mode (though troll mode may be controlled on upper panels.

Below the engine start panels are the Suzuki Key start panels the Emergency shut off cables.

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Round opening to Starboard will be where the engine controls will be mounted.


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Round Hole is centre is for a tilt Stainless Destroyer wheel


Below two push /pull wiper switches

Beside that Lone Star Anchor Switch

Bad photo of "I forget what it is thing" besides Anchor Switch. Red panels are Battery /ACR lights (I think)

Black Cover Lower Left corner protects a Fusion® Apollo™ RA770 · Marine Entertainment System
 
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Robert heard from the window Manufacturer today.

The Windows were ordered in early July and Robert sent in the templates at that time .

The build/delivery date was pushed off with the last shipping date being confirmed as December 3rd.

We were just told today that the shipping date will now be January 7th.

It is just a delay and we have been pretty lucky with everything that has gone on during the build . Compared to what the Fire and Flood victims have gone through, and are still going through, our problems are miniscule by comparison and non life threatening.
 
You are correct. However, Bill indicated earlier on that constructive criticism would be appreciated. That's all, not meant to be offensive or insulting. Just food for thought.
That is correct and like everything I will go over the stern door install with Robert. I have no doubt there is a reason Robert has built the door the way he has, he is so conscious of the appearance and durability of the build that I am sure this is being built this way for a reason.

More to follow.
 
Bill, this has been an awesome thread and truly a magnificent boat, thank you so much for sharing your journey.. As you have mentioned that you will accept constructive criticism here is my thought on the stern door:
Now , it is only a stern door and will function as needed and does not look bad but to me it looks like an after thought(maybe it was?). I was expecting it to look more integral matching the rest of the transom and maybe have hidden hinges with the water seal as an internal lip.

Beautiful boat no matter how you cut it
 
We had a great chat with Robert this morning on the stern door and like everything else when dealing with Robert our conversation went swimmingly. We were laughing and joking during the call.

So here is the scoop. That is not our final rear door, the rear door in the photos is made from an old piece of aluminum plate that Robert was able to buy from someone to use as a temporary door . This explains the contrasting colour and the through bolting. When this was going on we (Robert and my wife and I were still thinking that the windows would arrive and the boat would be out for engines before Christmas) Hence the temporary door fitment for sea trials, etc.

The rear door will be a new pieces of 1/2 aluminum plate (still on back order). It will be tapped on the inside for the hinge bolts leaving the stern facing side "as smooth as a Baby's bottom" (my words). This piece of plate is, along with the "Rat-Fur" that lines the cuddy, and the windows that will show up (hopefully)in January (ordered in July with templates sent to the manufacturer at that to avoid time delays ) have been our only Covid delays.

As soon as the build began we started buying everything that we could for the build and this has worked out far better than we hoped.

Final Version Stern Door

The cockpit side of the door will be boxed out a few inches inches (It has to be able to swing out , and the plate on the outside has to overlap the opening to protect us from a swell opening the door inward and turning the cockpit and cabin into a salt water spa). The hinges will remain on the exterior surface.

The latch area will remain flush against the inside of the plate (again tapped into the plate) with the boxing being more of an atheistic surround.
 
Compass Mount (not yet installed)

I wanted a larger compass than Robert supplied so he gave me a credit and I bought a larger Richie.

The design of the boat really only has one spot for a Compass and I wanted a 5" compass on a binnacle.

I grew up leading canoe trips in Northern Ontario and Quebec (I still have my Silva I used in the 1970's) and dammit I wanted a great Compass on the boat. Once the boat is finished and all the metal and electronics are installed I will hire a compass person to come set the compass up for the boat. Does anyone have any recommendations for someone in Vancouver.


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from what i understand about the compass person….they are quite literally a dying breed. there was a guy on the island that calibrates high end compasses for commercial vessels. he charges large and is in constant demand. he’s also old as dirt. sounds like a good career opportunity for someone to go and get certified
 
from what i understand about the compass person….they are quite literally a dying breed. there was a guy on the island that calibrates high end compasses for commercial vessels. he charges large and is in constant demand. he’s also old as dirt. sounds like a good career opportunity for someone to go and get certified


I expect it is a decent occupation.

Of course one wants to have an accurate compass, unless it is for purely ornamental purposes.

 
boat's looking great @Bill 310 !

like many, I enjoy these aluminum build threads immensely, learn a lot, and continue to be more and more jealous!
Thank you and writing in the thread has been both educational and fun. The best thing about these threads is that they are a learning experience for everyone.
 
why do you want a compass on a metal boat lol. just install a DGPS heading unit like the simrad HS60/HS75 and get 100% accurate compass readings on your chartplotter regardless of magnetic intereference.
 
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