130 HP Honda Propeller Replacement

[-Jim-]

Hi Gents,

Here's the story...

A Buddy has a 20 foot Lund with a 130 HP Honda OB that needs a propeller replacement. Of course he's gone off and bought 2 props on Facebook Marketplace that he and another of his friend's thought would fit. Both appear to be unused old stock. One is 3 blade and one is 4.

Background: We are lucky enough to have a 3rd Buddy we both worked with who owns a business with a small warehouse. He has kindly let us put the Lund in there over the winter (since October) to try to bring it back into shape for the 2024 fishing season. The first task was to move the Batteries to mid-ship with the correct cabling which was done. New Batteries were installed. The next task was to rewire the Downriggers and replace the crap cables my buddy installed (with his other friend a couple years back) which have rotted out already. This was completed yesterday.

The next task was to swap in a new 3 blade prop which is the same as the original pitch and diameter. (13.25" x 17P 3-Blade Right. The other one is a 4 blade.) Of course something didn't look right. It appeared the Hub spline is significantly different. I suspected different spline counts when it wouldn't slip right on. (15 versus 13?). I'm no prop expert but I've read (here?) of Hub Kits that can be fitted to other OEM props to allow them to fit.

Do you know of where I can find such information? Any assistance would be much appreciated.

PS: The last stage of this refurb is to swap out his rusty YACHT Club Trailer (so he and his other buddy can clean and repaint it for sale) for his new to him galvanized 2011 EZ Loader Boat Trailer with Torsion Axles I posted about earlier.

 

[Squire]

Your first step is to determine if the replacement prop has a pressed in hub (needs proper equipment to remove) or a slip in hub kit that can be installed and removed easily by hand. If it’s the latter, you can look on the prop manufacturer’s website to see if there is a hub kit for that prop for the 130 hp Honda.

 

[-Jim-]

He's taking the existing Honda Prop and the replacement to the Honda Center on 1rst in Burnaby today to get it sorted. It'll be interesting to see what they say.

 

[brutus]

He's taking the existing Honda Prop and the replacement to the Honda Center on 1rst in Burnaby today to get it sorted. It'll be interesting to see what they say.

Bad idea lol

 

[-Jim-]

He got nowhere at Honda as they only wanted to sell him a new one for quite a few $$.

I found out that Precision Props will repair them reasonably, and will pick them up at Haney Marine (where he had is 35 HP Merc repaired for his freshwater boat). I talked him into taking his new 3 blade prop with the wrong spline along to see if they could sell him a Hub Kit to fit it; as well as get his old one fixed so he'd have a spare.

He got word late yesterday that his prop was repaired and ready for pick-up, but the Hub kit is on back order from their supplier in the USA. Just got to hurry up and wait.

 

[brutus]

Told you lol, precision prop is awesome , John does great work

 

[-Jim-]

We are going to put the repaired Prop back on but can't find any torque Spec in the Service Manual for the Castle Nut.

Do you have any idea what the Spec is in Ft. Lbs?

Thanks for the assist.

 

[trophywife]

apply grease... tighten it down to snug, back off to align cotter or castle flanges. should be 1mm or less of play in the prop to prop shaft. i have never read anything but always done it this way.

 

[Squire]

apply grease... tighten it down to snug, back off to align cotter or castle flanges. should be 1mm or less of play in the prop to prop shaft. i have never read anything but always done it this way.

I somewhat agree with this but would add that if ‘snug’ lines up for the flanges or cotter pin slot don’t back off a notch from there, just put the pin in or bend the flanges over.

 

[brutus]

apply grease... tighten it down to snug, back off to align cotter or castle flanges. should be 1mm or less of play in the prop to prop shaft. i have never read anything but always done it this way.

Same, I’ve change props a lot lol, running the river in Renfrew is a prop eater if you have no patience and have never used a tork spec, I just use the plastic prop wrench I have and allow for the pin to go in

 

[Clint r]

Same, I’ve change props a lot lol, running the river in Renfrew is a prop eater if you have no patience and have never used a tork spec, I just use the plastic prop wrench I have and allow for the pin to go in

Ahhh I know that feeling well. Very first thing I did on our very first trip to Renfrew was grind off my prop coming through the river mouth

 

[brutus]

Ahhh I know that feeling well. Very first thing I did on our very first trip to Renfrew was grind off my prop coming through the river mouth

You me and many others

 

[DanJ]

My Mercury is 55ft/lbs

 

[-Jim-]

Thanks Gents for the quick comments. A little background is in order.

My Buddy decided not to wait any longer for the never coming "back ordered" Hub Kit for the new 3 Blade (seems like it's a Mercury Prop by the way.). So he ordered a Hub Kit off Amazon, and it arrived before he got around to driving out to Haney Marine to pick up the rebuilt prop from Precision Propellors. They were kind enough to pop the new Hub kit into the prop at no charge. They commented the paint job on the rebuilt prop was sloppy, with big runs on a couple blades, and not to the usual standard they see from Precision Propellors.

Anyway as we wanted to test fit the "new" prop with it's Hub kit as well, so my Buddy would have a good spare to install quickly, in case calamity struck again. Therefore I read the instructions from the kit and it's torque recommendation was first to follow the manufacturers spec, and barring that go between 50 and 80 pounds feet. (They also instruct to use only the spacers and washers they supply and not the original OEM ones.)

So based on that torque recommendation and the comments here, I decided to go with 50 pounds feet on the old Honda prop as it's Hub was already compressed over time, and would be stiffer than a new Hub. I torqued the Castle Nut to 50, and to my surprise the Castle Nut lined up with the cotter pin hole in the shaft. So we were golden.

As all of the winter maintenance is done on the boat, the next up is going to be the trailer swap. My Buddy bought a new-to-him galvanized trailer last fall, and he's chomping at the bit to go prawning, crabbing, and chase a few Winter Springs before the end of the month. We have scoped out a (hopefully) under used boat launch near the warehouse we've been working in, to do the swap.

My Buddy wants to do the swap Sunday, but I'm pushing for Monday as I expect the boat launch will be really busy with all this sunshine and warmth expected this weekend. We don't want folks getting agitated with us mucking about.

Hopefully it'll go well. Neither of us has ever switched trailers on a boat before. Wish us Luck?

 

[brutus]

Thanks Gents for the quick comments. A little background is in order.

My Buddy decided not to wait any longer for the never coming "back ordered" Hub Kit for the new 3 Blade (seems like it's a Mercury Prop by the way.). So he ordered a Hub Kit off Amazon, and it arrived before he got around to driving out to Haney Marine to pick up the rebuilt prop from Precision Propellors. They were kind enough to pop the new Hub kit into the prop at no charge. They commented the paint job on the rebuilt prop was sloppy, with big runs on a couple blades, and not to the usual standard they see from Precision Propellors.

Anyway as we wanted to test fit the "new" prop with it's Hub kit as well, so my Buddy would have a good spare to install quickly, in case calamity struck again. Therefore I read the instructions from the kit and it's torque recommendation was first to follow the manufacturers spec, and barring that go between 50 and 80 pounds feet. (They also instruct to use only the spacers and washers they supply and not the original OEM ones.)

So based on that torque recommendation and the comments here, I decided to go with 50 pounds feet on the old Honda prop as it's Hub was already compressed over time, and would be stiffer than a new Hub. I torqued the Castle Nut to 50, and to my surprise the Castle Nut lined up with the cotter pin hole in the shaft. So we were golden.

As all of the winter maintenance is done on the boat, the next up is going to be the trailer swap. My Buddy bought a new-to-him galvanized trailer last fall, and he's chomping at the bit to go prawning, crabbing, and chase a few Winter Springs before the end of the month. We have scoped out a (hopefully) under used boat launch near the warehouse we've been working in, to do the swap.

My Buddy wants to do the swap Sunday, but I'm pushing for Monday as I expect the boat launch will be really busy with all this sunshine and warmth expected this weekend. We don't want folks getting agitated with us mucking about.

Hopefully it'll go well. Neither of us has ever switched trailers on a boat before. Wish us Luck?

Boat launch is always a **** show, so most are use to it lol, don’t stress out over it, do your thing and don’t worry about what others say or think. Good luck and enjoy

 

[-Jim-]

Actually the Trailer swap went quite routinely (except I think the "new" trailer is a bit large for this boat. I'll post a new thread on that subject.). The weather was great and it took us less than an hour. So all was good there.

My Buddy was so pleased he insisted we take it out Prawning & Salmon Fishing on Tuesday.

Once we launched the boat, and were just opening it up to get onto a plane the rebuilt Prop slipped at a bit over 3,000 RPM. Well that sure killed the mood. We putted about and did some fishing, and talked about getting it back to Precision Propellor.

My Buddy took it back to Haney Marine Thursday, and they were going to forward it on. I suspect that even though the Prop never slipped before they got it, they'll just say the Hub was worn out. But we'll see.