Halibut anchoring system

Jeff Reinhart

New Member
Hey guys, I need to equip my 21 foot campion with an anchoring system to fish Hali. What are you guys using? Any help is definitely appreciated.

Jeff
 
lots to read on this using the search function.... i use 400' anchor rope 50' 5/8 chain and a danforth suited to my size boat... to retrieve, a split ring attached to a scotchman.slide rope attached at midship cleat up to bow eye. this way i never have to go to the bow and always have an emergency release right beside me... lots to read, be safe, this can be very dangerous quickly in current,swell, or being hung up on the bottom...
 
16.5 lb Bruce anchor with 30 ft of 5/16 chain and 450 ft of 7/16" Powerbraid rope attached to a 5" SS stopper ring with 45 ft of 1/2" floating line with a SS carabiner. Put another 5" diameter 1/2" SS ring that slides up and down the powerbraid rope/chain and a small float on the floating line. Get a 60" diameter scotchman bouy with about 3 feet of powerbraid and a SS carabiner. Use 7/16" Powerbraid for your bow to stern line.

Make sure you attach the galvanized chain to the front hole of the anchor and use a heavy zap strap to fasten the chain to the back hole of the anchor. This way if the anchor is snagged you can pull hard, break the zap strap and the anchor will come free.

If you are not familiar with the system you should go to Trotac in Victoria and have them put one together for you. It's about $600.
 
16.5 lb Bruce anchor with 30 ft of 5/16 chain and 450 ft of 7/16" Powerbraid rope attached to a 5" SS stopper ring with 45 ft of 1/2" floating line with a SS carabiner. Put another 5" diameter 1/2" SS ring that slides up and down the powerbraid rope/chain and a small float on the floating line. Get a 60" diameter scotchman bouy with about 3 feet of powerbraid and a SS carabiner. Use 7/16" Powerbraid for your bow to stern line.

Make sure you attach the galvanized chain to the front hole of the anchor and use a heavy zap strap to fasten the chain to the back hole of the anchor. This way if the anchor is snagged you can pull hard, break the zap strap and the anchor will come free.

If you are not familiar with the system you should go to Trotac in Victoria and have them put one together for you. It's about $600.

If this helps, heres a drawing I found from a friend that shows exactly what E-Zee described above:

a62dc3f47cf368b7201d55aaec5b1aaf.jpg


And a picture of his gear:

3340919ce7f5a305dcd5e7297ef87ab5.jpg


Rick


Reluctantly sent from my iPhoney using this crappy Tapatalk app...
 
That's an excellent drawing. I'll probably never anchor to fish, but I fabbed up a bunch of stainless rings and have gathered rope and floats and an anchor to put a system together. I'll practice playing around with it in the lake until I'm reasonably proficient at deploying and retrieving it, but the thought of trying it in the ocean is a little daunting. It would have to be perfect conditions for me to even consider it. Last guide we went out with seemed a little green to me. Not only did he run over the crab trap line and cut the rope, he got his anchor stuck when we were out on swiftsure bank. My old lady never caught on but I could definately feel the tension running between the guide and his partner. Took about 15 minutes for him to get it loose.
 
Ok. I'm not sure what you mean? The blade or hook end pivots on this particular anchor.

OK ... notice the picture of the anchor in Wyrguy's post , not the drawing but the picture ? ...notice how the chain is hooked to the bottom of anchor . plow end ?...... then you zap strap the chain using a couple of zaps to the eye of anchor ... so if and when your anchor becomes real stuck ... power up a lil more and the straps will break ,,, thus ... pulling your anchor backwards , and freeing it ... and i dont know why your guid did not have it hooked up this way .... very fool proof
 
Ahh. I see it now. I guess I could weld an eye on the end but think I know where there's an anchor like the one in Wyrguys photo. Thanks for the info. And I'm not sure how the guide had it rigged. At that time I had little to no knowledge of anchoring. That trip out with him was our first experience with anchor fishing. Every other trip had been drifting off a ledge or drop off. I can say that drifting never failed us but the anchoring produced zero halibut. Again, more because I think he was still a rookie than the actual anchoring and fishing.
 
That's an excellent drawing. I'll probably never anchor to fish, but I fabbed up a bunch of stainless rings and have gathered rope and floats and an anchor to put a system together. I'll practice playing around with it in the lake until I'm reasonably proficient at deploying and retrieving it, but the thought of trying it in the ocean is a little daunting. It would have to be perfect conditions for me to even consider it. Last guide we went out with seemed a little green to me. Not only did he run over the crab trap line and cut the rope, he got his anchor stuck when we were out on swiftsure bank. My old lady never caught on but I could definately feel the tension running between the guide and his partner. Took about 15 minutes for him to get it loose.

I don't recommend that you practice anchoring in a lake. Lakes are often riddled with woody debris, especially if they have ever been used for log transport and collection. You are far more likely to get hung up in a lake than in the ocean. If you do anchor in a lake, attach a release line and float to the front of your anchor.


Franko

MILF (Man, I Love Fishing)
 
Thanks for the tip. I got hung up one time in Mabel lake on an overnighter, learned a thing or two there let me tell yôu. But I know a small lake/large pond wiith a mud bottom where I test my boat out after I tune it up or change engines ect. Im waiting for ice off to test pilot the motor I just put on it and will give the anchoring set up a whirl there. It's a skill I'd like to learn but will probably never use. I just like to be prepared.
 
Bruce style anchors set with much less scope than other styles. Other styles have more holding power to weather a storm with lots of scope but for temporarily anchoring to fish with minimal scope the Bruce can't be beat IMHO. A new Bruce / claw style is only a small percentage of the total cost in the anchoring system..
 
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We put a bruce on the old mans boat.... worst decision ever.
Yeah they work great with minimal scope at perfect conditions, but I'll take a properly rigged Danforth any day of the week
 
Guess I cant take you fishing then Lippy thats what ive used for about 15 years now ... danforths suck bruce is by far the best....if you understand HOW to use and implement all the things regarding these systems....

Good luck Wolf
 
Dont invest a lot in a Hali anchoring system because there is a good chance you may lose it.
You wont be anchoring in mud if you are Hali fishing. More likely gravel or the top of a rock pile.
The previous sketch is the way to go.
I suggest 400 feet below the ring and 50 to 75 between the boat and the float.
This will let you anchor in water 100 to 250 feet.
Scope is not too important as you are not spending the night.
Dont anchor up in rough water or high winds.

Thanks for the tip. I got hung up one time in Mabel lake on an overnighter, learned a thing or two there let me tell yôu. But I know a small lake/large pond wiith a mud bottom where I test my boat out after I tune it up or change engines ect. Im waiting for ice off to test pilot the motor I just put on it and will give the anchoring set up a whirl there. It's a skill I'd like to learn but will probably never use. I just like to be prepared.
 
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