What Did You Do To Your Boat This Week?

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I have my boat out for bottom paint and noticed the zincs took a big hit at the dock, last year. The old galvanic isolator tested bad so a new one is going in. Simple, quick replacement.
 
The volvo version of the MerCathode is functional, and the zincs have always faded at the same rate as long as i have owned this boat (7 years). The ones on tabs are pretty much there for show as they're not bonded and fail at far slower rate. I'm sure it's a me thing and I rarely plug the boat in at all but my shed neighbor sure does, as do the 10,000 other boats moored at mcm. The tiny marina we keep a slip in on the Coast seems to have spicy water there too.

For kickes I also hang a zinc guppy off the stern, negative connected to the motor mount. It's failing at a decent rate too but not slowing down much else.
 
The volvo version of the MerCathode is functional, and the zincs have always faded at the same rate as long as i have owned this boat (7 years). The ones on tabs are pretty much there for show as they're not bonded and fail at far slower rate. I'm sure it's a me thing and I rarely plug the boat in at all but my shed neighbor sure does, as do the 10,000 other boats moored at mcm. The tiny marina we keep a slip in on the Coast seems to have spicy water there too.

For kickes I also hang a zinc guppy off the stern, negative connected to the motor mount. It's failing at a decent rate too but not slowing down much else.
What kind of props do you have? I changed from Nibral G-series to stainless H-series and my zincs last a full year now. Before it was barely 6 months.
The new Volvo Stainless H-series specifically states better galvanic isolation which protects drives from corrosion caused by the propellers
 
What kind of props do you have? I changed from Nibral G-series to stainless H-series and my zincs last a full year now. Before it was barely 6 months.
The new Volvo Stainless H-series specifically states better galvanic isolation which protects drives from corrosion caused by the propellers

I'm using volvo stainless f3's. Thanks for the tip, this boat may not be long for my world however...cheers
 
Replaced engine mounts on my Volvo Penta D1-30 (3 cyl diesel.) Did the engine/shaft alignment and also checked the valve clearances. Should be good for another season or two and a few more fish. Will do an alignment check after a few hours of run time when the engine has had time to shake around a bit on the new mounts.
 
Replaced ripped storage tarp, mildew treatment on top and upholstery, replaced corroded bilge pump float switch, bought replacement fenders for trailer, shopping for new hardware to mount them, new winch strap, measuring trailer for bunks and hardware to replace rusty rollers, bought outboard lifting ring to fine tune engine height this week. Preparing a mixed bag of receipts that will look like confetti by June.
 
Replaced ripped storage tarp, mildew treatment on top and upholstery, replaced corroded bilge pump float switch, bought replacement fenders for trailer, shopping for new hardware to mount them, new winch strap, measuring trailer for bunks and hardware to replace rusty rollers, bought outboard lifting ring to fine tune engine height this week. Preparing a mixed bag of receipts that will look like confetti by June.
Super easy way to move your outboard up and down is to drop the motor down, put a block under the skeg, loosen the bolts with the slots, remove the other bolts and use your tongue jack to raise or lower to your wanted level and tighten everything up.
 
The first thing I checked were the O rings—- brand new, no deformation...boat was built in 2021. I initially freaked out visualizing that stuff getting into the injectors of my Suzukis but I’ve calmed down a bit. I changed out all the filters and will watch them like a hawk.

Meanwhile, there’s a lot of water in the tanks.....former owner bought some crappy fuel while up in Alaska I’m guessing. Part of me wants to pump the tanks and dump the fuel but I’m going to just keep swapping filters and see what happens
 
The first thing I checked were the O rings—- brand new, no deformation...boat was built in 2021. I initially freaked out visualizing that stuff getting into the injectors of my Suzukis but I’ve calmed down a bit. I changed out all the filters and will watch them like a hawk.

Meanwhile, there’s a lot of water in the tanks.....former owner bought some crappy fuel while up in Alaska I’m guessing. Part of me wants to pump the tanks and dump the fuel but I’m going to just keep swapping filters and see what happens
 

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The first thing I checked were the O rings—- brand new, no deformation...boat was built in 2021. I initially freaked out visualizing that stuff getting into the injectors of my Suzukis but I’ve calmed down a bit. I changed out all the filters and will watch them like a hawk.

Meanwhile, there’s a lot of water in the tanks.....former owner bought some crappy fuel while up in Alaska I’m guessing. Part of me wants to pump the tanks and dump the fuel but I’m going to just keep swapping filters and see what happens
There are the "fuel polishing" guys, too.

I rigged up my own fuel pump and filter system, then pumped the fuel into 4 big Jerry cans for reuse. I went in through the sender hole and kinda "vacuumed" the bottom of the tank with a bent piece of copper tubing. An amazing amount of debris came out.
 
The first thing I checked were the O rings—- brand new, no deformation...boat was built in 2021. I initially freaked out visualizing that stuff getting into the injectors of my Suzukis but I’ve calmed down a bit. I changed out all the filters and will watch them like a hawk.

Meanwhile, there’s a lot of water in the tanks.....former owner bought some crappy fuel while up in Alaska I’m guessing. Part of me wants to pump the tanks and dump the fuel but I’m going to just keep swapping filters and see what happens
Good plan. Must have gotten some bad fuel but it will clean up. Keep draining the racor. That keeps the engine filters clean
 
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I pulled the trailer and put the boat up on stands to strip and redo the bottom paint. (BTW, the air jack is fast, safe and generally awesome!) I tried an enviro stripper on the paint but no good. Two coats barely touched the first of five old layers yet to come off. No chance will I sand that nasty stuff. I've called in the soda blaster guys to take over. They capture the residue for safe disposal.

In my inspections, I noticed the Mercathode electrode had broken - a barnacle had dislodged the tiny wire! Ouch -$400 sticker shock on that one! Am I lucky to find one on EBAY for half of that?

Then I pulled the risers and elbows to check for corrosion. Very pleased to see almost none after several summers in salt water. The rubber couplings are good, too. Apparently $2000 in OEM parts a few years back paid off. I'm replacing the tired shutters, installing new gaskets and bolts, then good to go!
 
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I pulled the trailer and put the boat up on stands to strip and redo the bottom paint. (BTW, the air jack is fast, safe and generally awesome!) I tried an enviro stripper on the paint but no good. Two coats barely touched the first of five old layers yet to come off. No chance will I sand that nasty stuff. I've called in the soda blaster guys to take over. They capture the residue for safe disposal.

In my inspections, I noticed the Mercathode electrode had broken - a barnacle had dislodged the tiny wire! Ouch -$400 sticker shock on that one! Am I lucky to find one on EBAY for half of that?

Then I pulled the risers and elbows to check for corrosion. Very pleased to see almost none after several summers in salt water. The rubber couplings are good, too. Apparently $2000 in OEM parts a few years back paid off. I'm replacing the tired shutters, installing new gaskets and bolts, then good to go!
What’s the trick to getting it off the trailer? The process?
 
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