Travel trailer electrical

[Prawn Star]

I have a 2011 Super Sport by R-Vision. My DC outlets (slider, power jack, lights) are not working. It is plugged in to shore power. I have 13.2 at the battery, 13 on the leads to the battery with battery disconnected. 12 volts at the fuse panel, all fuses are good (checked with multi meter). Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks

 

[baddogg]

Do any of those things work when not plugged into shore power?
I worked at an RV place for a few years and assisted in the shop at times.
There is a breaker on a lot of RV's that is on the tongue of the trailer. These sometimes go.
Clean connections on your wiring outside the coach is important.
Worst case is it could be your converter. Tried to get in touch with a buddy of mine who is an RV tech but no answer.
You could try his shop, West Coast Motor Sport, Nanaimo, 2550-390-3357, ask for John Punt, he could send you in the right direction.

When you plug your RV into an electrical source, or when you use the onboard generator, the converters job is to reduce 120 volts AC down to 12 volt DC to supply power to all of the 12 volt appliances and accessories in the RV. ... The converter basically prevents your RV battery(s) from draining when you're plugged in.

 

[Prawn Star]

Nothing DC works when plugged or unplugged from shore power. If it is the converter one would think the DC stuff would work when unplugged. I have spent hours on you tube and google and still cant find the problem. I cannot find any external breaker or in line fuse anywhere around or under the front near the battery.

 

[CIVANO]

are you getting voltage to the fuse panel?

 

[gungadin]

Don't know if your trailer has one, but some RV's have panel (often near the door) that you can switch to a storage setting, shutting of the power to all 12volt appliances to prevent battery draining. Check that if you have one

 

[baddogg]

Talked to my buddy. He said to call him. Closed now but try tomorrow. He thinks possibly converter as well but you can give him more info than me.

 

[GLG]

If it were mine I would look at the negative connection that is common with the ac/dc converter and the negative from the battery. There might be two points to check. One close to the converter and one that connects to the trailer grounding point. FYI I have never worked on a trailer so I could be way off.

 

[Prawn Star]

Talked to my buddy. He said to call him. Closed now but try tomorrow. He thinks possibly converter as well but you can give him more info than me.

Thanks Baddogg I will do that.

 

[Prawn Star]

Don't know if your trailer has one, but some RV's have panel (often near the door) that you can switch to a storage setting, shutting of the power to all 12volt appliances to prevent battery draining. Check that if you have one

I don't have a battery switch. Thanks

 

[Prawn Star]

are you getting voltage to the fuse panel?

Yes 12V to the panel and all the fuses.

 

[baddogg]

They open at 8:30

 

[Prawn Star]

Problem solved. Thanks to baddogg and his buddy John for the help. It was in fact a bad ground on the frame of the trailer.

 

[GLG]

Problem solved. Thanks to baddogg and his buddy John for the help. It was in fact a bad ground on the frame of the trailer.

90% of the time it's a bad ground. It's like those electrons are traveling from negative to positive in a circuit rather than the other way around. If only back in the 1800's they got the direction of flow correct, troubleshooting by us mere mortals would be easier.

 

[Prfisher]

The Brits got the polarity thing right... It's just us ignorant colonials that screwed it up.
I figure 90% is a conservative number for this kind of problem. I clean & grease the grounds on my boat trailer as part of spring maintenance.