Transducer Fell Off!!

[Baxter]

On the weekend had a great time fishing, but at one point, while we were jigging I looked back at the screen to see what at first glance appeared to be the mother load of fish!! Did not take long though to realize that something was amiss.

Thought it might have been a kelp bed or something weird the sonar was picking up to give us an odd reading, but when it did not go back to normal after several minutes I investigated further. Thinking that maybe there were some weeds tangled around the transducer I went to check it out. Got a surprise.

The screws holding the transducer in place had found their way out and the unit was just dangling behind the boat!!! Yikes!!! (I thought maybe I hit something that knocked it off, but never heard anything and zero damage to the transducer - not even a scratch)

With some zipties and a piece of rope, I was able to tie it out of the way for when we ran home.

Now my question. I would use an adhesive to keep the replacement screws in place, BUT, those screws may need to be backed off in order to adjust position. I would use a nut/bolt, but there is no way to access the back end of the bolt/screw. Would Loctite be an appropriate choice? Or perhaps even just some Teflon tape to help hold it in maybe? Was thinking I may just use some silicone - enough to help hold things in place, but easy enough to cut away should I need to readjust.

Also assuming to use 1" #10 SS screws, but may use SS lags or something instead (hate it when phillips head screws strip, lags would eliminate that possibility).

Heading to Strathcon later today

 

[kingblazer84]

On the weekend had a great time fishing, but at one point, while we were jigging I looked back at the screen to see what at first glance appeared to be the mother load of fish!! Did not take long though to realize that something was amiss.

Thought it might have been a kelp bed or something weird the sonar was picking up to give us an odd reading, but when it did not go back to normal after several minutes I investigated further. Thinking that maybe there were some weeds tangled around the transducer I went to check it out. Got a surprise.

The screws holding the transducer in place had found their way out and the unit was just dangling behind the boat!!! Yikes!!!

With some zipties and a piece of rope, I was able to tie it out of the way for when we ran home.

Now my question. I would use an adhesive to keep the replacement screws in place, BUT, those screws may need to be backed off in order to adjust position. I would use a nut/bolt, but there is no way to access the back end of the bolt/screw. Would Loctite be an appropriate choice? Or perhaps even just some Teflon tape to help hold it in maybe?

Also assuming to use 1" #10 SS screws, but may use lags or something instead (hate it when phillips head screws strip, lags would eliminate that possibility).

Heading to Strathcon later today
View attachment 67390
View attachment 67391

3M 5200 SEALANT, OR SIKAFLEX 291 I would try , can you get to the backside of that mounting plate ??

 

[Baxter]

3M 5200 SEALANT, OR SIKAFLEX 291 I would try , can you get to the backside of that mounting plate ??

Nope, no way behind it unfortunately. A nut would sure make life easier! But not an option. I played with the idea of cutting off part of that folded over portion at the top so I could get a wrench/bolt behind there, but feel uneasy about cutting it away. Assuming it must be folded over like that for a reason?

 

[kingblazer84]

Nope, no way behind it unfortunately. A nut would sure make life easier! But not an option.

I would get a rivnut tool and drill those mount holes a little larger then put a rivnut in place and bolt down and done.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/45-pc-threaded-insert-and-riveting-tool-kit/product/PA0008514234

 

[Baxter]

I would get a nut cert tool and drill those mount holes a little larger then rivet the nutcert in place and bolt down and done.

I am a pretty handy DIYer, but that sounds well beyond my skill level. LOL

 

[kingblazer84]

I am a pretty handy DIYer, but that sounds well beyond my skill level. LOL

its pretty simple to use, basically grabs the inner threads then pulls and crushes the sleeve locking it on the inside of whatever the rivnut has been placed into.

 

[SeaWolf]

I am a pretty handy DIYer, but that sounds well beyond my skill level. LOL

Try Youtube

Never hear of it before but seems easy!

 

[Sea lyin’]

I am a pretty handy DIYer, but that sounds well beyond my skill level. LOL

Could you drill a hole big enough for a finger to slide in on the top or bottom of that folded over part? Just enough to slide a nut into and hold it while you tighten it down.

 

[Pineapple Express]

If this were my boat I would cut the top rolled edge of the mounting plate off (be sure to carefully clean and paint the cut edge to prevent corrosion).

Then I would mount the transducer and the washdown intake pipe bracket with bolts & lock nuts

 

[Baxter]

If this were my boat I would cut the top rolled edge of the mounting plate off (be sure to carefully clean and paint the cut edge to prevent corrosion).

Then I would mount the transducer and the washdown intake pipe bracket with bolts & lock nuts

Ya, debating that... probably the best way to go.

Picked up some new SS self tapping bolts for now, will get it mounted and maybe do as you suggest later on. Really the best way to go about it long-term.

 

[brutus]

Toggle bolts,marine supply’s have them in Ss. Even a couple of coarse Ss lags, once you found your sweet spot on your transducer then back them off and goop some 5200 on there, if done right they will never come off. Grind the paint and rough both parts with a flap disc done. I am not an alum guy so not to sure what using Ss fastener with alum would do???

 

[SteelyDan]

A lag will not work going into aluminum. Drill and tap for a number 10 machine screw and add some red locktite.

 

[Corey_lax]

Agree with Dan (don’t use a lag). And Stainless steel is fine with aluminum. Drill and tap or a self tapper will be fine too.

 

[dss]

Remove the pickup. Sicaflex and screw a chunk of starboard to the formed channel. Then re attach the pickup and transducer.

 

[triplenickel]

Trim that top section so you can get nuts back there. Don’t trim it right at the front, leave the folded edge and trim it right where the lighter coloured strip in the pic ends and the dark green starts and it’ll be strong with no flex.

 

[brutus]

More knowledge then me with alum, so do what they say lol, I know one thing for sure, is you use 5200 properly it ain’t coming off

 

[Squire]

Trim that top section so you can get nuts back there. Don’t trim it right at the front, leave the folded edge and trim it right where the lighter coloured strip in the pic ends and the dark green starts and it’ll be strong with no flex.

^^ Agreed; the folded part isn’t attached along it’s edges so cutting it off with the bend intact by about 1/8” won’t compromise its strength. Use stainless bolts with nylock nuts and you’re golden.

 

[Baxter]

Some great ideas here... will have to decide which way I want to go.

For the cutting option, how would you recommend I cut it? I know a wood blade on a circular saw could do the trick, but no getting that in there. Angle grinder is not quite the right tool (due to melting point of aluminum I believe it may just gum up the blade). Maybe a rotary tool? Too thick and awkward for snips...

 

[Pineapple Express]

Drill a hole to start a jigsaw or sawzall. Or get a cutting disc specifically made for aluminum and put it on a grinder.


Note that a standard cutting/grinding disc for steel can plug with aluminum and explode...so don't use one of those!

 

[Corey_lax]

We work with aluminum all day and use mini grinders lots. There are cutoff disks specific for aluminum but I’ve never really had any issues if I use a cutoff disk meant for steel