stripping bottom paint

searun

Well-Known Member
My Grady has a few seasons worth of bottom paint, so I'm thinking it is going to be time to start the dreaded work to strip it all off and re-apply new. I've seen a few products advertised that appear to be bio-degradable which is very appealing. I'm wondering if there are any forum members out there with experience with these bio-degradable easy strip products?? Any tips/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance. :)
 
wish i could remember the one at the boat show... looked like a great product, like you say ,, bio degradable easy strip type....
 
If you don't find help online here, I'll bet the Harbour Chandler is up to date on new products like the ones youre looking for.
 
wish i could remember the one at the boat show... looked like a great product, like you say ,, bio degradable easy strip type....
Aqua strip is the one I saw at the Vancouver show
 
I've tried Aqua Strip on my 16.5 Double Eagle and it worked exellent,searun. One gallon did the job for my boat at a
cost of $80.00. It was done in a warm dry stretch of weather in April of about 15 degrees. The colder it is,the longer it
takes to do the job.Even at 15 degrees, it still had to be left on overnite.A heated shop would be ideal this time of year.
The stuff is great to work with as it has little ouder and won't damage your gellcoat. Industrial Plastics and Paints in
Victoria have it,and will ship it to you FedEx for a small fee.
 
Pat, pm MightySylvan (James). he had to remove all the paint from a BW26 and it came out real nice. I think it was a sh*tload of work though
 
i did my 24' striper last season. i tried i few products in the end a hand scraper, sandpaper and lots of work was the solution. if you got the money sand blasting is easily the best.
 
Thanks guys, will drop by Harbour Chandler and Industrial Plastics to see what they have. Either way it is sounding like I need to hire a few kids with a strong work ethic to help. Any trick to applying and then stripping the product off.
 
My brother and I did our 22' grady last sping......tried the stripping products and they were slow and messy aslo Strippers tend to soften the gel coat. In the end we resorted to 40 and 80 grit sandpaper, out of all the things we did rebuilding our boat this was by far the worst!!!!!!! period. I got a quote from a mobile blast guy who would come tent the boat, blast and haul all the crap away for $1000. That is the way to do it and I would have no problem handing that cash over to him for this ****** of a job. Also what is your plan for recoating?
 
Like already posted, you will need lots of hard work. My right shoulder was sore for a week. Soda blasting is a good idea but $$$. Get a good orbital sander and and a respirator.
 
Yes, my plan is to re-coat, and its starting to sound like a very ugly job indeed. I just bought an orbital sander and 50 sheets of 80 grit. Don't like the sound of that stuff softening the jell coat - did it cause any long term damage? Yikes.:eek:
 
Searun,you have no idea the amount of work you have ahead of you if you decide to go the" just sand it off" route.
I also was concerned about gell coat damage,but after a few hours on the orbital sander,I went with the Aqua Strip.
They advertise no gell coat damage and that's exately what I got. It's slower than the second coming of Crist,but
soooo much easier,not to mention the sore arms and dust factor going the other route.If your still nervous about your
gell coat,just partially strip it down,and sand the remaining layer at the end. My 2cents. FF
 
Thanks, that is exactly the advice I'm looking for. I know this is a large undertaking but with several years worth of layers it is time to start fresh. I have also been reading online that it is best to also start with a primer coat - not sure if anyone has experience with that or not, but seems like a good idea.
 
here is my experience from doing my grady with:

for sanding:
start with 40 grit, it will take as least 75-100 discs
finish up with 80 grit
you are going to want to tent the hull down to the ground with poly so no toxic dust can escape
get yourself a really good resperator and we arent talking the cheap disposible type. Get a 3M unit with replacable cartridges.....have you checked what is in bottom paint?
you will need a full tyvek suit with hood, gloves and boots
this took by brother and I with 2 sanders 10 hours to complete

For recoating there is really only one option in my opinion and that is 4-5 coats of interpertect epoxy primer to fully seal the hull as gelcoat is porous. After that I would go with 2 coats of alabative primer. every 2 seasons or so when the primer starts to show through the bottom paint you recoat......no more sanding again. this is the do it right do it once approach.

In all seriousness....don't be cheap on this one at least get a quote for a blaster to do it. Also it doesnt nessicarly have to be soda blasted from what i understand. THIS IS THE WORST JOB YOU WILL EVER DO ON A BOAT.....PERIOD!!!! After doing it I would have gladly payed somone $1000 to remove all of the bottom paint.
 
Yes, starting to think a cold $1,000 would be a deal if I could find someone willing to do it for that.
 
I'll be doing my boat this spring....won't be lifting a finger until I give Aquastrip an honest try.
Will post my results. Gotta wait until it gets above 15 celcius to try it.
 
This pretty much sums up the reviews I've seen/heard...follow the directions and be patient...


Comments about Back To Nature Aqua Strip Paint Stripper:

OF COURSE it's "messy", people. It's a big bucket of chemical paint stripper. You slap it on thick and then scrape off layers of old paint. What did you expect? If you don't like "messy" then go pay the soulless clowns at your local boatyard $2000 to do it for you.

For everyone else, a review:

No, it does not quickly and easily remove 10 layers of bottom paint. I know because I've tried. But it works better than anything else I've used and I've tried a lot of them.

Still, I'm sure it depends on the paint or something. Beats me, not an expert.

And again, don't expect it to be quick and easy. It's not.

Some tips:

- Forget using some wimpy plastic paint scraper. Get yourself a thick, sturdy short-handled ice scraper for windshields.

- The makers say to use it between 60-80 degrees: believe them. Remember that this is a chemical reaction you're inducing here and - if you went to school back before it was transformed into group therapy for poster makers - you'll recall that temperature is an important element in any chemical reaction. If it's much over 80 degrees or much under 60 the stuff just doesn't work nearly as well.

- Yes, it dries out. Go get some really cheap, thin plastic dropcloth and when you're finished coating the boat, tape the stuff up over it, although usually it will just stick to it no problem. I've also used that Press & Seal plastic wrap stuff, which is good because you can do small areas and also uncover smaller areas at a time. Easier to use, too.

- If you've got many many layers, as I said, you'll probably need to re-coat, but even if you don't, when you get done scraping there's some residue. Take a big green kitchen scouring pad and lightly scrub the little sticky bits that haven't come off yet. Don't wait until later because it'll harden again. Do it while it's still soft. Comes right off.

- If you've got a layer of primer it probably won't come off with this, but a light sanding with 400 or 600 grit with water will ake that right up. Again, it's easier if you do it right away.

- If you use this with your boat on a trailer, make sure you cover any parts of the trailer that you don't want the paint removed from. Those big globs of old paint that you're scraping off still contain enough stripper to quickly mess up your trailer paint. Take it from someone who once ended up having to repaint a trailer.

- As several people mentioned, it can be a challenge to get it on thick enough, and it needs to be thick. Use a medium sized brush more or less like a spatula. Smear it on rather than brush like you would your walls.

- No two applications are the same. The first time you use it you'll go racing out after it's been on a couple of hours and be very disappointed when absolutely nothing comes up. I always plan for it to be on for 24 hours, and I've left it on as much as 48. As long as it's covered with plastic, it'll be fine.

Be realistic, plan ahead for the mess, and above all be patient and figure out what works best in your particular application. Yours wil not be the same as anyone else's.

All I can say is that it DOES work, it works better than anything else I've tried and I bet it will work for you too.
 
Thanks Degree of Freedom - this is exactly what I was hoping to learn. Great post with lots of good tips. Sounds like a lot of work, but nothing I couldn't do. Looks like I will need to plan this out, get some help to do the grunt work. Love the tip with ice scraper and light plastic to keep it from drying out. Does the stripper do anything to galvanized trailers or aluminum trailers?
 
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