Spare battery

My booster has been great. The key is to charge it up very 3 months or it will lose its ability to hold (and deliver) a charge.
 
I do have 2 spare marine batteries that I use for my electric trolling motor ,on my raft. Maybe better off wiring one of them up in tandem, cause I plan to eventually upgrade to electric down riggers and a better depth sounder...
 
I do have 2 spare marine batteries that I use for my electric trolling motor ,on my raft. Maybe better off wiring one of them up in tandem, cause I plan to eventually upgrade to electric down riggers and a better depth sounder...
wouldn't you want to isolate them? 1 for starting and the other for electronics?
 
I do have 2 spare marine batteries that I use for my electric trolling motor ,on my raft. Maybe better off wiring one of them up in tandem, cause I plan to eventually upgrade to electric down riggers and a better depth sounder...
Then you really need to get a charging kicker Dennis. It does not take too many retrievals with 12 or 15 lb. cannonballs to deplete the house battery.
 
a kicker that puts out a charge so it will keep your battery up to par while running riggers etc all day
 
He means a kicker engine with charging relay in it. Your 4 hp doesn't have it but most 8 hp and 9.9 hp kickers do. Typically they produce about 6 amps, some are as high as 10. That is normally plenty to keep a house battery topped up whilst it is running typical fishing boat electronics like sonar, GPS, downriggers, stereo, VHF radio, etc.

You should also consider that not all fishing involves trolling, there won't be a kicker running to provide charging when bottom fishing or mooching. Of course then the downriggers aren't going, so that largest load is a non issue. Your options then are the booster pack, or the ACR so that the house battery can be heavily depleted but the starting battery is protectedand ready to go for the run home.
 
He means a kicker engine with charging relay in it. Your 4 hp doesn't have it but most 8 hp and 9.9 hp kickers do. Typically they produce about 6 amps, some are as high as 10. That is normally plenty to keep a house battery topped up whilst it is running typical fishing boat electronics like sonar, GPS, downriggers, stereo, VHF radio, etc.

You should also consider that not all fishing involves trolling, there won't be a kicker running to provide charging when bottom fishing or mooching. Of course then the downriggers aren't going, so that largest load is a non issue. Your options then are the booster pack, or the ACR so that the house battery can be heavily depleted but the starting battery is protectedand ready to go for the run home.
Right on bros! Am looking at a used 9.9 Honda four stroke for a kicker. Does it need to have an alternator to be able to charge up your 2 battery system?
 
Right on bros! Am looking at a used 9.9 Honda four stroke for a kicker. Does it need to have an alternator to be able to charge up your 2 battery system?
depending on age of that Honda, it will have either a 6 or 12 amp charging relay built in. Pull starts have the 6 amp, electric starts have the 12 amp system. This will be plenty for your on-board electrical demands. If you hook up an isolating solenoid (ACR system) to the dual battery system, then I think you should hook up the kicker to the house battery. Others who have more expertise may correct me on this.
 
That's how I hooked mine up, Finaddict, although according to the Blue Seas folks it really doesn't matter how you connect the various charging sources - i.e. kicker, main engine, external battery charger. The ACR component simply recognizes that there is a charge present and ensures the starting battery is fully charged before it opens and allows a charge to go to the house battery.
 
here are a couple things to consider, Dennis. I just renewed my dual battery switch, they are $60.00 for a keyless one.
also consider your alternator. I know that on some Delco-Remy units, they won't start charging unless power from the battery is present at the alternator output terminal. So that is fine with one battery wired up to the alternater, but the charging isolater won't let power through to this terminal in a dual battery set up!
Only some of the Delco-Remy alts. are like this, depends on the electronics installed inside the machine. I have had a few alternators rebuilt and ended up with one I can't use because of this.
I just use a basic 3 terminal battery isolater, not a blue seas unit. Maybe they are the way to go. good luck.
 
3 terminal switch does the same thing as an ACR, you just have to operate it correctly, ie, start in battery 1 position, then switch to '1+2' position whilst running so that both batteries receive charge. Then if you decide to mooch, you switch to battery 2 position so that radio, sonar etc don't deplete start battery (I'm assuming start is battery 1). Then reverse the procedure for the trip home. All works fine IF you remember to select the correct switch position through those various moves. The ACR just automates the whole process, start battery is always isolated from the system except when there is a charging current detected.

If your kicker is an electric start, you should wire it to the designated start battery in a Blue Seas system. Should also mention that the ACR will require that you purchase or make some new wiring components, it's not a completely bolt-on solution. If you're not comfortable with working with battery lead material and terminations, an auto electric shop will make them for you. Places that work on logging trucks know how to make them tough and unaffected by vibration (crimp, then solder, then seal with heat shrink tubing).
 
Back
Top