SKEENA COUNTRY!! Part I

Sharphooks

Well-Known Member
Just to celebrate October, I thought I’d do a write-up of my trip up north last week.

I did the math and it was scary--- my 38 th consecutive year up to Skeena Country. Big changes over those years, especially for us Non Rez Anglers. They’ve made it so it’s almost just no fun any more---no fishing on weekends, each weekday you gotta drive fifty kilometers to stand in line at a chain-saw shop to buy a piece of paper to make it legal to fish, then as you’re lining up your rod to step in the river, you get to watch the storm clouds gather and the rain start pounding, just in time so the "special" river gets punched out with mud five minutes after you paid for that “special” license to fish it.

Back in the good old days, no people, piles of fish, zero paperwork, and for me it was normal to fish 3 or 4 rivers in a day to strawberry-pick the conditions. Not no mo’…. That just ain’t happening to us NRA’s. Even Albertans have to suffer those same indignities, a dynamic that the locals I’m sure derive a certain amount of glee from. I learned decades ago that the only thing a Region 6 local hates more then an American up there fishing the Skeena is an Albertan---


But the country up there is so phantasmagoric, so breath-taking, that I’ve reached the point where I can just stand on a river with or without a rod in my hand and just take it all in ----- I think I’ve come to a point where I’ve realized that the fish just aren’t quite as important as they used to be. The country up there really is that astonishingly gorgeous!







My mistake this year was going late---usually I try and capture the last few days of September and the first week of October--- this year business got in the way and I ended up arriving just after a HUGE rain event--- the good news--- the muddy water scared everyone away.

That is critical to me---I’m not a social fisher---the river ain’t no sportsbar for me the way it is for some people---seeing a group of 3 or 4 fly boys on the river chest-bumping and high-fiving like they’re at a Canuck’s game after one of them hooks a fish has always made me run for the exits. So crumby weather means no people. It also means marginal fishing conditions but that’s o.k. These days I fish on memories of the way that place used to be. And occasionally I even stumble into a few when the conditions get marginal



Sounds kind of goofy, I know, but my greatest accomplishment in chasing steelhead over the years is this….after almost 4 decades of going to Skeena Country, nobody has EVER seen me catch a fish. In the 70’s and 80’s that was not much of a challenge but wow, try and do that these days and it means----walking further, wading deeper, doing whatever it takes to get away from the “hot spots” where the gong shows are in full swing.

The whole “spey” thing gags me with a soup-spoon these days. Your average “spey” guy is somehow under the delusion that it’s a method of fishing he’s using, as in….”yeah, I caught it on the spey”. No, sorry, you didn’t. You caught it fly fishing. You used a spey cast to get your fly out into the river. You’re fly fishing. And with that 6 inch long articulated leech with all that flashy tinsel on it you're pounding out into the river, it looks to me like you're gear fishing with a spoon

I do whatever it takes to get away from those guys. It sometimes means doing risky stuff, stuff that comes complete with dicey maneuvers.



To get around that outcrop, the rods went between my teeth and I had a death-grip on the dog ---a narrow bed-rock ledge, up to my chest in the river, one wrong move and it was falling in to a Class III chute with zero back eddies for a loooong ways. The best part---the puppy going nuts and trying to kick us both off the ledge with its hind feet as we're inching around the outcrop

But the pay-off is always worth it






 
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SKEENA COUNTRY PART II

The Mission Statement this year: bring the puppy back home alive. This was no small feat. She’s totally nuts---get her off a leash and she’s gone. And she’s also totally fearless (also known as totally inexperienced--- doesn’t understand heights and what happens when you achieve them, and then happen to slip; doesn’t understand rapids and what happens when you fall in--- all the stuff you and I take for granted when we’re on a wild river)


















My biggest fear taking a puppy into that country: bears and what she would do when we stumbled in to one. Never had the opportunity to find out this trip which is a good thing. I even broke out the heavy artillery to get a bit more access and keep us out of the woods :

(This picture can also be entitled: ...."why women won't go camping with me..."





This is how the heavy artillery gets deployed



And voila, INSTANT boat:








On the river at O DARK THIRTY:

Nothing like running dicey water when you can't see the rocks




But sometimes you get the pay-off for getting to the tough-to-get-to spots:

 
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SKEENA COUNTRY Part III

Mid-October is a crap shoot for sure. I fished in mud conditions for 75% of the time---maybe 6" visibility max. On top of crumby visibility, the river heights were yo-yo-ing all over the place. The one and only true, consistent thing I know about chasing steel: when the river is rising they get lock-jaw. So that's all part of the October crap shoot. When it's raining, there's fresh snow in the mountains and it's too warm to wear a coat, you might as well go into the camper and play guitar. So i did lots of that.

But I did have one glorious day where I fished some clean water and never saw a soul. That day was one big fresh gulp of OCTOBER in Skeena Country:














That day turned out to be "one of those days"--- I had a 5 fish day, couldn't do anything wrong, everywhere I went there seemed to be a gold nugget in one of the pools.

My favorite moment (and a nice little reminder that fly fishing is just a different way to catch a fish---it's not particularly complex or mysterious and quite frankly, doesn't require a helluva lot of brains to catch one using this method)

I was fishing the high-bank side of a hole (one of my tricks to get a slightly different approach at the fish) I'd just turned loose a big doe and as it was getting dark and I was tired, I got sloppy and on a backcast, got all my line wrapped around a tree branch. So wading back over slippery bedrock I first get the fly untangled with about 5 feet of leader and fly line. I'm in a tight spot so having nowhere to lay down the fly and line while I'm untangling all the other line from the branch, I flip the fly into the water just off my rod tip.

I finally get all the other line untangled and I'm just ready to do a roll coast to set up for another cast when....WTF... there's a throbbing on the rod tip: a fish had come up off the bottom, inhaled the fly when I'd flipped it into the pool, then retreated to his hidey hole while I was untangling the rest of the line. When it felt the pressure it came unglued and I was fast into a huge buck that tore the pool to bits

I remember thinking...ya, this fly thing sure is complex and mysterious and must take decades to figure out how to do it effectively---no wonder those spey guys have such a huge sense of how cool and unique they are....

Before leaving town and driving north I remember asking myself...."do you REALLY want to do this again? Don't you have anything better to do with your life?...."

Once the trip was over for yet one more year and I was driving home, I remember thinking....yes, I did want to do it again and I was bloody glad I had prodded myself to pack up all the shiat, stuff it in my camper, and make a go of it one more year.

And as to having anything better to do with my life....well, no, I guess I don't because for me, doing these kind of trips is as good as it gets!
 
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Wow! Thanks for that writeup and great pics. Your dog looks awesome as well, cheers.
 
great write up!
I miss the good old days also... went just about every year from about age 16 to about 30.... but i'ts probably been about 20 years since i've fished any rivers up near terrace. (discovered ocean fishing...lol) used to love the Nass and Tseaux.... fall was great. mid sept was usually some nice weather. and usually a few coho, springs and steelhead around. never knew what might be on the end of the line that time of year.... good times. maybe someday i'll do it again, but didn't know anything about special permits, although there were special river tags i believe back then... is the permit a native thing? like the song says ... you don't know what you've got till it's gone...
 
That's awesome!! Thank you for sharing. Always enjoy your story telling and those pictures. It's been a few years since last visited up there. It's amazing still. Sure brings back good memories.

Take care.
 
Thanks for sharing, great pics and words. And for the straight up approach to fly fishing.
 
great write up!
I miss the good old days also... went just about every year from about age 16 to about 30.... but i'ts probably been about 20 years since i've fished any rivers up near terrace. (discovered ocean fishing...lol) used to love the Nass and Tseax.... fall was great. mid sept was usually some nice weather. and usually a few coho, springs and steelhead around. never knew what might be on the end of the line that time of year.... good times. maybe someday i'll do it again, but didn't know anything about special permits, although there were special river tags i believe back then... is the permit a native thing? like the song says ... you don't know what you've got till it's gone...

Thanks for the comments, Guys

Yo, bigdog-- in some places up in Skeena Country, the permit thing is both a provincial thing AND a native thing. For three decades I included a Skeena tributary in my itinerary---it's one of the tribs that seems to swim the bigger fish so there was that going on, but also because over the years I'd developed some pretty good friendships with some of the locals in the valley.

And the river, well it's knock-down freaking gorgeous

But a few years ago, the Gitxsan Band decided to start charging Non-Rez anglers $ 100 a day to cross their property to get to the river. So put yourself in my shoes--- I've just dropped $ 200 to the Provincial Gov for their paper, I need to pony up an additional $ 20 a day to fish a Class II river, and now there's another $ 100 on top of that to the Gitxsan. With heavy heart I crossed the river off my list ---tough to break a 30 year habit

here's a few pix of that river and the fish that swim through it I kept from "the good old days"---it’s a freaking arrow in the center of my heart that I don't go there any more:























Thanks for indulging me with all the pictures: I included them mostly for the dog----I got real weepy this trip not doing it with her---first trip in a dozen years she didn't make it---best fishing companion I ever had.....

I also treasure these pictures because there's not another soul standing on the river bank----today that just would NOT happen

Here's one more---my birthday a few years ago: out of focus but sure captures the OCTOBER feel on that river:




Here's an illustration of how goofy it is up there now. A few weeks ago, it was a Sunday and being a non-res angler, I was barred from fishing. So to kill some time I'm shooting the shiat with two guys fishing the Skeena (which was high and pumping mud) But just twenty feet upstream from where we stood was a large Skeena tributary that was in pretty good shape. I would have been fishing it in a heart-beat if the Provincial guys would let me

Why not fish the cleaner water I asked one of the guys.

..."Well, I'm a BC resident so I could go do that but my father is from Ontario --he only bought paper to fish the Skeena today so he can't and I don't want to leave him..."

So, three guys, each holding different residency paperwork, each held to a different regulatory compliance scheme. Nuts.

And I was up there over the long weekend (Thanksgiving) The day I wanted to go into town to get a special license to fish I found out ALL the stores selling licenses were closed for the holiday (including the Provincial Forestry/Fishery offices)----I was shiat out of luck----

Ya gotta love the New World Order---"quality waters" fishery management....

.....for the guides
 
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nice photos, fish, dog....great stories...I enjoyed it! I went thru Skeena country to reach Stewart BC a few years back...very beautiful place in the province!
 
Yeah i agree with you on all the regulatory BS. I quit going years ago after getting hassled for fishing "their river".

Screw them. I now fish in shorts during the fall/winter now where i am apreciated.
 
I had no idea it was this bad now sharphooks. thxs for the commentary and for filling us in. It is beautiful wild country for sure but it's not the same when bureaucrats and politics take over. I won't be fishing it again if that much bs is involved. maybe that's what they want, so yeah, they win.... pity... especially sad for the newer generation. but it's pretty obvious the people making the rules/decisions could care less about the newer generation. it's all about money, power and access now. shame. more and more like europe (britain) every day.. freedom? yeah, right... less and less each day. sorry i had to rant and ruin or taint such a nice thread.... maybe one day it'll return back to the way it was. maybe. we can only hope.
the sad thing is the government probably loses more money by their greedy selfish acts. I was first introduced to salmon fishing from my grandfather and caught my first salmon on the morice river when I was 13 or 14 years old. that experience hooked me for life and if i had every dollar i spent on salmon and other related fishing gear, etc back i'd probably be able to retire 5 years earlier....lol. it's unfortunate that people will be turned off and their children will lose those experiences. those experiences were priceless to me... I don't feel sorry for myself as i've gotten to experience and enjoy some great fishing outings, etc but i do feel sorry for the next generation that'll miss out on what we were able to experience.
 
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I had no idea it was this bad now sharphooks. thxs for the commentary and for filling us in. It is beautiful wild country for sure but it's not the same when bureaucrats and politics take over. I won't be fishing it again if that much bs is involved. maybe that's what they want, so yeah, they win.... pity... especially sad for the newer generation. but it's pretty obvious the people making the rules/decisions could care less about the newer generation. it's all about money, power and access now. shame. more and more like europe (britain) every day.. freedom? yeah, right... less and less each day. sorry i had to rant and ruin or taint such a nice thread.... maybe one day it'll return back to the way it was. maybe. we can only hope.
the sad thing is the government probably loses more money by their greedy selfish acts. I was first introduced to salmon fishing from my grandfather and caught my first salmon on the morice river when I was 13 or 14 years old. that experience hooked me for life and if i had every dollar i spent on salmon and other related fishing gear, etc back i'd probably be able to retire 5 years earlier....lol. it's unfortunate that people will be turned off and their children will lose those experiences. those experiences were priceless to me... I don't feel sorry for myself as i've gotten to experience and enjoy some great fishing outings, etc but i do feel sorry for the next generation that'll miss out on what we were able to experience.
Great post BD. I have to agree with you 100%. I love that river and yet have only fished it once. The entire Skeena area is magnificent, but with the changes to how we as second class Canadians are now governed, we reap what the majority and the courts have sown. Very sad to just give something away that was never really theirs to begin with.
 
Thank u so much for sharing.. The feeling u have for the Skeena country is what I have for the Thompson river and surrounding country.. I do really need to make it up to the Skeena country but I seem to always find reasons not to go... U put best in theses words ...so so true...cheers :)


Once the trip was over for yet one more year and I was driving home, I remember thinking....yes, I did want to do it again and I was bloody glad I had prodded myself to pack up all the shiat, stuff it in my camper, and make a go of it one more year.

And as to having anything better to do with my life....well, no, I guess I don't because for me, doing these kind of trips is as good as it gets!
 
I signed up for this forum after a year of just reading so I could comment on this thread.

First, very nice report with great photos. Glad you enjoy coming up here and make the effort to do so. Most people around here appreciate what fishing tourisim brings to the area.

I have been blessed with living in Prince Rupert, Terrace or Smithers all but 2 years of my 55. 16 years of this in Smithers where I live now. Like most locals I have to work for a living and that means working 5 or more days a week. This means I don't get out on the river nearly as much as I would like, and when I do it is usally on the weekend. The rule that restricts access to some rivers on weekends for residents is meant for guys like me. This rule allows residents to get on the river and have some quality fishing without having to compete with dozens and dozens of non residents and guided anglers. Even still, there are lots of resident anglers and the river can be busey on weekends. I have no problem with non-residents and guides, everyone has a right to make a living and enjoy fishing. It just makes it very busy on the rivers and takes away from the peace and quiet that most of us appreicate while fishing. Many non resisdents don't get this rule, but move here, as many have done just to enjoy the lifestyle, and you too will appreciate how much this rule means to residents.

The natives restricting access is spreading. There has been a requirment for a Nishga fishing licence in the Nass River for some time now. In addition to the "fee" getting charged for one local river in particular, there is no longer boat acess to the Skeena river in Kitwanga. Signs went up last year, no parking no tresspassing. This removes a fairly long section from having easy access unless you have a very small boat. This summer there were quite a few people told to get off the river in the area of Kitwanga as the Gitskan had evicted all resource companies, fishers,CN and fishing guides. Fortunatly, they recinded it before the stealhead realy got going but If the Gitskan don't get their way in negotiations, this will likely happen again next year.

Non resident fees for some waters? Just be glad the province doesn't charge like some places in Europe. The two years I didn't live in this area I lived in Alberta. Believe me it hurt me to pay those fees in a Province where I was born, raised and paid a lot of taxes but it was worth every penny.

I travel a lot for work and have this same conversation all the time with people in other provinces and the states. Lots complain about only having two day posesion limits and having to pay more than locals to fish. I tell them all the same thing. You can always move here, find a way to make a living, and enjoy everthing thing the area has to offer as often as you wish.

I hope many of you have the opertunity to come up here and enjoy what the area has to offer. One trip and you will be hooked. I personally never take it for granted. Those of us that live here are truely blessed.

Stew
 
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