Servicing Motor vs hours on engine 4 stroke

[cby]

Looking for info or knowledge for anyone the uses a 40, 50, 60, 70 HP Yamaha 4 Stroke.

My questions are: I used to use a 70 HP 2 stroke and a Kicker. I would do about 360 hours total each fishing season. I would do about 40 hrs on my Main and 320 hours on my kicker. Main used for A to B travel. Kicker used for trolling. I would at end of season do all the basic winterizing etc. My boat is garage kept.

I have now switched to a single 70 HP Yamaha, 4 stroke. Maintenance call for a break in period up to 20 hrs, then 100 hrs, 300 hrs, 500 hrs, 1000 hrs etc.
If I am doing 360 hours on my main now and of that same calculation about 40 hrs travel A to B and 320 hrs trolling. It seems these new motors just go by hours on engine even thou most of the hours on the engine will be under 900 rpm for trolling.

I know the 20 hr and 100 hr are the most important services but after that can I just winterize at the end of season. As it looks like my first season with have 20 hr, 100 hr, 300 hr and then winterize?

Can anyone tell me if this is the case and how they service there engines. I imagine many use their engines the same way I do. Is this just dealers and Yamaha wanting more money?

Also I heard these engines only last about 3000-5000 hrs which is about 8-12 years on usage at 360 hr a season. I had my other two engines way way longer than this. Any truth to this or is it the same old story its how its taken care of extra.

Any advice or knowledge would be appreciated.

cby

 

[gungadin]

This may only be me. For the 20 hr service: I broke in the engine as Yamaha suggested, but at 12 hours I changed the oil in both the engine and leg. There was a considerable metallic sheen to both oils. I replaced the engine oil with a regular hi detergent automotive oil in the engine and replaced the leg oil with Yamaha oil. After that the engine ran in a tub at a high idle for about ten minutes. I changed out both the oil and filter with genuine Yamaha products. There was no discernible sheen in the oil. I cut the filter open and found very few metallic particles but quite a bit of silver sludge.

I used the boat until I got to 20 +/-hours and replaced both the engine oil and filter and the leg oil. This time there was no oil sheen, and only a tiny bit of sludge in the oil filter.

Because this is a fuel injected motor I also replaced the 20 micron remote fuel filters with 10 micron models.

I also have only one engine on my boat now, and the idling hours predominate. After each trip I would check the oil, the level did not change, although the oil took on a bit of a red colour, from the use of marine fuel, so there must have been a slight fuel contamination. I only put about 60 hours on it the first year, but in October I would run one of my portable tanks with a non ethanol premium fuel with ring free and a fuel preservative added and used that tank for any return trips to the launch site. After the final trip of the year I replaced the engine oil with fresh automotive oil and replaced the gear oil as well. (as a side note always replace the leg crush washers). I also drained the fuel filter. . In the Spring I warmed up the engine and replaced the oil and filter with Yamaha products. I have since serviced it at 120 hrs and again at 200 hrs. At this point it does not make or use oil and runs well.

 

[wolf]

I personally do main oil change 1 a year just did it yesterday and it only had 65 hours on it (summer) I changed the oil in spring time as it was a brand new engine and that was at 43 hours .. oil is cheap engines are not Ive always said takes no time to change it so why not... As for kicker I try and do once a month with synthetic, basically its at 120 to 160 hour mark... best part you can do on water so not that big of deal...and also do your fuel filters at beginning of each season . I had a tiny bit of water in mine maybe a 1/2 cup of water good thing for racors.....

 

[scott craven]

I think if maintained properly, you will get at least 6000 hrs out of your motor.
Once properly broken in, change engine oil every 100 hrs, gearcase oil once a season.
check periodically for water intrusion ( milky oil)
Also Ring-free additive seems to be highly recommended.
I run a can of Seafoam through my tanks a couple times a season.

 

[wolf]

Seafoam is the bomb love that stuff

 

[scott craven]

Seafoam is the bomb love that stuff

Yeah, my engine is carbureted and whenever it runs a little rough seafoam gets it purring again.

 

[cby]

I think if maintained properly, you will get at least 6000 hrs out of your motor.
Once properly broken in, change engine oil every 100 hrs, gearcase oil once a season.
check periodically for water intrusion ( milky oil)
Also Ring-free additive seems to be highly recommended.
I run a can of Seafoam through my tanks a couple times a season.

Hi Scott, do you pour the sea foam right into the gas tank? Sea foam is a carb cleaner correct? I do put stabilizer in my gas, but I imagine seas foam cleans the carbs?

I was also told by a mechanic that marine gas is not good for 4 stroke engines and to only use 87 octane from gas stations?

 

[scott craven]

Yes, I have 5 gal portables that I add about 1/4 can of Seafoam to.
It also cleans injectors and keeps the engine running smooth.

 

[cby]

I personally do main oil change 1 a year just did it yesterday and it only had 65 hours on it (summer) I changed the oil in spring time as it was a brand new engine and that was at 43 hours .. oil is cheap engines are not Ive always said takes no time to change it so why not... As for kicker I try and do once a month with synthetic, basically its at 120 to 160 hour mark... best part you can do on water so not that big of deal...and also do your fuel filters at beginning of each season . I had a tiny bit of water in mine maybe a 1/2 cup of water good thing for racors.....

Thanks Wolf, Yes no problem on the oil and gear oil. That will be changed for sure. I was more wondering about the 300, 500 and 1000 hrs of service? Are these just generally servicing to check everything over or will there be other issues other than Oils and lubricates?

As mentioned by boat is garage kept, it is trailered and never kept in the water. Always winterized and always cleaned with fresh water after use. When I was told by a mechanic that these engines only last about 3000-5000 hrs I was surprised. I thought this was in a commercial environment but it wasn't it was just a blanket statement.

 

[scott craven]

Unless you get a lemon and you would likely know by now, these motors are bullet proof
if properly maintained.
my buddy has a 2011 F70 and he's literally done nothing but changed the oils
and it runs like a top.

 

[cby]

Unless you get a lemon and you would likely know by now, these motors are bullet proof
if properly maintained.
my buddy has a 2011 F70 and he's literally done nothing but changed the oils
and it runs like a top.

Hi Scott, that's what I am hopeful for as well. Just in break in period, done first 6 hours this weekend. So far so good, will be going in for 20 hr service after a few more trips.

 

[tinboatrobb]

Seafoam in your car or truck 2 or 3 times a year does wonders also, i use it in both vehicles. They run a lot smoother after.

 

[wolf]

I follow the routine no matter how many hours stick to same program, What I also do is have a book of all the things I do to boat or any thing ive fixed and its dated down to wiper blades , new bilges replacing filters oil changes Zincs,battery check etc .
So I can look back and make sure what ive done etc. On the first front pages I have the serial number and model . and spark plugs, filter number, oils, EVERYTHING you can think of so i just have to look an know what I need for ordering etc...then the next page after that I have one which has hours per year and totals.

 

[profisher]

After break in period just change fluids and filters once a year..I do mine in the fall before the engine sits more often to remove fluids that may have water in them. Better to discover this sooner and make repairs then let the water sit all winter and either freeze or corrode more parts. I change plugs at the same time, remove the props and look for fishing line and lube the shafts. I remove lower legs bolts one at a time, paint on marine never-seize and reinstall. This ensures that if the leg ever has to come off it will without heat and damaging anything. Remove leg, change water pump and lube upper drive shaft splines every 2 years. Unplug every electric connection one at a time and apply dialectic grease every spring. Grease pivot point where grease nipples exist often. I remove my ignition coils every spring and use my dremel to clean up mating surface on the block of any oxidation as well as any ground wires. Wax the painted outer surfaces a couple times a year, more if I find the time.

 

[32Knots]

I follow the routine no matter how many hours stick to same program, What I also do is have a book of all the things I do to boat or any thing ive fixed and its dated down to wiper blades , new bilges replacing filters oil changes Zincs,battery check etc .
So I can look back and make sure what ive done etc. On the first front pages I have the serial number and model . and spark plugs, filter number, oils, EVERYTHING you can think of so i just have to look an know what I need for ordering etc...then the next page after that I have one which has hours per year and totals.

And wolf will be able to sell his boat for $1000 more with that book than if he didn't have it showing maintenance and attention to detail.