Outboard Power for 21’ walkaround

I’ve thought about that route but really not a fan of I/O in general, never have been. Yes it’d be cheaper, rough numbers it’s a $20-25k job versus a $40-$45k job, and for the extra deck space and the reliability of an outboard, maintenance etc, I’m sold on the pod/outboard route. It’s only money right? Unless I pull the plug on the whole thing lol.
$55k to pod my boat last year and install new Yamaha 300 (including removal of inboard doghouse and a lot of fibreglass work) Never regretted it. Deck space alone is almost worth the price! I’ll never get out what I put in the boat but I’ll use it a sh*t load and if I sell, it’s still worth 1.5x what an inboard version would go for. Soooo many threads on this forum from people with inboard issues!
 
I’ve thought about that route but really not a fan of I/O in general, never have been. Yes it’d be cheaper, rough numbers it’s a $20-25k job versus a $40-$45k job, and for the extra deck space and the reliability of an outboard, maintenance etc, I’m sold on the pod/outboard route. It’s only money right? Unless I pull the plug on the whole thing lol.
Yeah dont put an inboard in. Having gone through pod conversion its 100 percent worth it. The outboard will be more relable in long run.
 
This is an easier decision than it seems. Start with the pod design/math/engineering and figure out the max (or best) weight you can hang off the pod (including your kicker). Then buy the most horsepower for that weight. The modern outboards all share very similar performance and reliability stats. No need for brand loyalty but rather an assessment of your own limitations and needs regarding service and support and the proximity and reputation of the dealer or shop your research indicates has good techs and customer service.
 
$55k to pod my boat last year and install new Yamaha 300 (including removal of inboard doghouse and a lot of fibreglass work) Never regretted it. Deck space alone is almost worth the price! I’ll never get out what I put in the boat but I’ll use it a sh*t load and if I sell, it’s still worth 1.5x what an inboard version would go for. Soooo many threads on this forum from people with inboard issues!
Good to know your cost, my $40-45k guess seems ok then if I go 200.
This is an easier decision than it seems. Start with the pod design/math/engineering and figure out the max (or best) weight you can hang off the pod (including your kicker). Then buy the most horsepower for that weight. The modern outboards all share very similar performance and reliability stats. No need for brand loyalty but rather an assessment of your own limitations and needs regarding service and support and the proximity and reputation of the dealer or shop your research indicates has good techs and customer service.
Also good call, May very well end up with a 225 or 250 on there, doing the design/engineering stating this week.
Still blows me away they get a V8 in an outboard. Been eyeing up the 4.6L V8 Merc 250… 😍 no question on hole shot anymore with that thing
 
I looked at doing a similar project last year, the dance floor in that model with an outboard from the factory has a lot of wasted space for the engine well and tilt forward requirements. When I was on the same boat with a broken sterndrive, the extra room from removing the doghouse is easily apparent. Nice choice. Is it the Pro version? (edit...I see it is a Pro)
 
I looked at doing a similar project last year, the dance floor in that model with an outboard from the factory has a lot of wasted space for the engine well and tilt forward requirements. When I was on the same boat with a broken sterndrive, the extra room from removing the doghouse is easily apparent. Nice choice. Is it the Pro version? (edit...I see it is a Pro)
Yep it’s the Pro. Looking forward to the big deck space for sure. It’s no Grady but I really do like the boat overall.
 
Decide on power before building the pod, the design will need some of those details. Leg length, weight etc. to calculate buoyancy and make sure the mounting height is set properly. I always add a few degrees of tuck to help stuff the bow down a little more without needing as much tab. You won’t regret the decision if everything is done properly.
 
My brother in law has a 2000 trophy 2052 podded its got a 2008 250 suzuki on it and its perfect. Tons of power decent economy. Does 55mph cruises easily at 35mph. Looks good. Dont skimp on power. I have a 2006 yamaha f200 on my polar 2100 wa and its a dog with 3-4 people, gear and a full tank of fuel. One day im going for a yamaha f300 v6. Its lighter than my current motor and 100 more hp.
 
My brother in law has a 2000 trophy 2052 podded its got a 2008 250 suzuki on it and its perfect. Tons of power decent economy. Does 55mph cruises easily at 35mph. Looks good. Dont skimp on power. I have a 2006 yamaha f200 on my polar 2100 wa and its a dog with 3-4 people, gear and a full tank of fuel. One day im going for a yamaha f300 v6. Its lighter than my current motor and 100 more hp.
I think that’s what I needed to hear lol… Certainly leaning towards the Merc 250 at this point.
 
Getting pretty close to pulling the trigger to pod/repower my boat. Looked new/replacement but new is $150k plus and replacement isn’t, well… new! Love my boat but want reliability and it is slightly underpowered (4.3v6 rated 190hp I’m sure it’s less at its age now)

2006 Trophy Pro 2052 WA (21’7”) 3500lbs dry weight w/o fuel gear people etc.

To the guys who have similar styles 2101 Stripers etc, what are you running and how does it perform. Or anyone with an opinion, whatcha think? Gas is far less consideration than a good hole shot, which I don’t have now. I’m not a speed demon just want proper power. I’ve seen 175 but that seems low. 200? 225? Yamaha or Merc?

We aren’t fishing much these days so at least we can talk about boats…

SIDE NOTE: anyone wanna buy a decent running 4.3V6 and Alpha one leg?? Lol
I did a trophy build last year and repowered with a new gen 1 etec 150 and propped it with the biggest stainless prop. The boat had amazing hole shot and would do 44mph wot.
They are light boats. Engine was never under heavy load. But then again, it was an etec. Tons of balls. New yammy in-line 4 200 hp would be a very adequate choice. U want a light motor ideally. Good luck.
 
I did a trophy build last year and repowered with a new gen 1 etec 150 and propped it with the biggest stainless prop. The boat had amazing hole shot and would do 44mph wot.
They are light boats. Engine was never under heavy load. But then again, it was an etec. Tons of balls. New yammy in-line 4 200 hp would be a very adequate choice. U want a light motor ideally. Good luck.
Interesting you call them light boats, from what I can gather (albeit google) it’s right around the same as a Striper and heavier than a ProLine etc. Certainly feels like it’s around 5000lb when towing it (3500lb dry weight plus trailer/fuel/gear). Not as heavy as a Grady or Wellcraft but you’d expect that for those quality levels.
Curious what size/model Trophy you speak of, for having an amazing hole shot on a 150hp tho?
 
Interesting you call them light boats, from what I can gather (albeit google) it’s right around the same as a Striper and heavier than a ProLine etc. Certainly feels like it’s around 5000lb when towing it (3500lb dry weight plus trailer/fuel/gear). Not as heavy as a Grady or Wellcraft but you’d expect that for those quality levels.
Curious what size/model Trophy you speak of, for having an amazing hole shot on a 150hp tho?
 

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Older than your 06pro, but still coming in at 3500 lbs. your talking about podding too so that does change a few things. Floatation and running length will be different. Just sharing my first hand experience.
 
I can vouch for the 3.4L V6 Merc as I have some hours on mine since I purchased it new, The boat is a 1996 20'6 DE. I received quotes for both the Yamaha I4 and the Mercury and they came in at almost identical prices I couldnt say no to the extra displacement. I believe the Mercury weighs very similar amounts or even less than the yamaha but I could be wrong. The pod builder stressed how important it was to have a light engine on the back.

Dan
 
I did a trophy build last year and repowered with a new gen 1 etec 150 and propped it with the biggest stainless prop. The boat had amazing hole shot and would do 44mph wot.
They are light boats. Engine was never under heavy load. But then again, it was an etec. Tons of balls. New yammy in-line 4 200 hp would be a very adequate choice. U want a light motor ideally. Good luck.

100 percent. Stay light. These boats sit stern heavy as is. The outboard version of these boats came with 2 stroke 150s or 175s. I believe the outboard version of these boats is rated for maximum hp of 175 or 200. It's a light 20ft boat.
 
100 percent. Stay light. These boats sit stern heavy as is. The outboard version of these boats came with 2 stroke 150s or 175s. I believe the outboard version of these boats is rated for maximum hp of 175 or 200. It's a light 20ft boat.
They are sticker rated for 175hp max.
 
You definitely want to pay attention to weight. The rear scuppers are low on the hull. I have seen a couple 20 trophies sunk at dock due to to much squat from a heavy engine and one way scuppers failing due to that fact. If you go bigger heavier power make sure it’s a full floater pod to help. Like a poster said they are light boats. The ones I was on with 175 2 strokes went really good no issue with not enough power. Probably not the best hull to try and create a 50 mph plus boat. In big seas if you push them to hard spidering will happen. My dads newer 20 with 4.3 spidered we did a couple trips to big bank in shortish deep swells so it was digging in pretty good when putting on trailer noticed some fresh spidering on hull. Great all around boats at great price but I myself would stay around spec power for those hulls there’s a reason for a hp max rating.
 
These boats need a full flotation pod. There’s calculations for buoyancy you can do it yourself or have someone do it for you. Not hard to build a bracket that can support a new outboard and keep the deck self bailing.
Would also recommend you have the inside of the transom plated and knee braced to the old motor mount location as the transoms on these boats are not designed for the extra weight.
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These boats need a full flotation pod. There’s calculations for buoyancy you can do it yourself or have someone do it for you. Not hard to build a bracket that can support a new outboard and keep the deck self bailing.
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Beauty job boat looks sharp, love those hardtop models. Yours is a longer hull so doesn’t suffer from the same squat issues stock as the 20ft models. Full floater would help a 20ft no doubt.
 
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