Moving batteries from stern to mid-ship?

[bigdogg1]

Here is what is presently in the starboard transom stern (Striper 2300 WA):
2 x batteries (cannot get to on until I remove the one in front of it
Battery select switch
Trim Tab reservoir
Line from fuel tank to gas valve
Primer bulb for main motor
A rat's nest of electrical connections direct to battery posts
A trickle charger

My initial plan was to mount a proper Blue Sea buss of some sort to clear off the wires from the batteries but I still do not like the proximity of the fuel lines and bulbs to the batteries. There is really no space in there to simply move the wires or the lines.

So then I thought about moving the batteries to the storage locker directly behind the captain's seat. I wouldd then run a line back to the stern with the buss to collect the electronics there and a better line to the helm to collect the electronics up front. There is space and I believe enough room to consider ventilation etc.

Has anyone with a similar layout done this or are there options I may not have considered?

Thanks

 

[Wild Bill]

I moved my tank all the way to the stern when I podded mine and installed two GC2 6 volts in front of the sump pumps. I have a a separate engine battery starboard stern and wiring on the transom, a positive and negative post. I went a little overboard re: battery cables as it's what I had, 2 gauge negative and 0 gauge positive. Looks pretty clean! Just came into the city so I can't take pics however perhaps Saturday. Mine was mostly for balance because of the pod, engine hanging further back and fuel tank pushed to the rear. Density of a lead acid battery is more than fuel.

 

[bigdogg1]

Here is where I need your astute collective rationale...

I am really looking hard at moving my Starter and House battery to the small storage seat/step directly behind the helm chair (see OP above). There is room. I do not need that space as I am finding storage elsewhere. The boat is a 2300 Striper WA and they are infamously known for terrible battery access. I want to remove the electrical from the fuel as much as possible, as well as providing improved access to the batteries, switch, etc.

What I would like to hear are the negatives to doing this. What might I not have thought about or known about? Weight is in the right location. Ventilation is okay. Loss of storage is okay. Proper size wire to and from will be done properly. Tinned wire and connections will be proper.

Is there an issue connecting a 250 OB to a pos/neg post and then running large gauge wire to the batteries (~ 10')?

Any other ideas that I may be missing are encouraged and appreciated.

 

[terrin]

Batteries will likely pound a lot more being further up to the bow which does not help their longevity.

 

[casper5280]

Agree with Terrin that is about the only issue you would have.

 

[gungadin]

The only other thing you "may" encounter is running the larger starter wires to your starter under the cowling. Some manufacturers have you run the wires through a "grommet" designed for the supplied battery cables with the holes in the grommet sized to accept their sized cables and still seal off water intrusion. Using a lubricant on the cable cover can help ease the cable through.
One other thing, cover the exposed cables with some type of light blocking cover. Sunlight will break down the covering of the many types of cable covers over time.

 

[Hoochiebob]

Is there an issue connecting a 250 OB to a pos/neg post and then running large gauge wire to the batteries (~ 10')?

If you can terminate to an isolation switch at the end of your o/b wire leads that would be ideal over a remote battery post connection.
I tried splicing the leads from the switch to the battery on my old boat when I relocated my battery. Tinned wire, heavy duty compression crimps, anti oxidization grease and rubber splicing tape, followed by 3M electrical tape. Bulletproof right? It was, for about four years.
2 weekends worth of troubleshooting only to find my invincible splices had corroded down to a powdery waste. had no clue as they were so tightly sealed under the tape.
Lesson learned here was no splices or connections that could be buried somewhere. terminations to switches and batteries are always open and not sealed with tape, and are much easier to access for inspection.
#2 awg wire for 10' of extension, bump it up to 1/0 for 20'. Yammies have a lot of electrical components that become unreliable under 10 VDC, and you will have a significant draw from the starter on a motor that size.

The rats nest can definitely be dealt with via a fuse block. feed it from the switch. I would avoid a breaker style, they just dont blow fast enough.

Going to leave it at that before go on a server congesting rant

 

[bigdogg1]

The only other thing you "may" encounter is running the larger starter wires to your starter under the cowling. Some manufacturers have you run the wires through a "grommet" designed for the supplied battery cables with the holes in the grommet sized to accept their sized cables and still seal off water intrusion. Using a lubricant on the cable cover can help ease the cable through.
One other thing, cover the exposed cables with some type of light blocking cover. Sunlight will break down the covering of the many types of cable covers over time.

Great advice. Thanks for the thoughts. Just took another look at the present situation and really need to separate the fuel delivery from the electrical supply for my peace of mind. Battery move will likely be the 'easiest'.

 

[bigdogg1]

If you can terminate to an isolation switch at the end of your o/b wire leads that would be ideal over a remote battery post connection.
I tried splicing the leads from the switch to the battery on my old boat when I relocated my battery. Tinned wire, heavy duty compression crimps, anti oxidization grease and rubber splicing tape, followed by 3M electrical tape. Bulletproof right? It was, for about four years.
2 weekends worth of troubleshooting only to find my invincible splices had corroded down to a powdery waste. had no clue as they were so tightly sealed under the tape.
Lesson learned here was no splices or connections that could be buried somewhere. terminations to switches and batteries are always open and not sealed with tape, and are much easier to access for inspection.
#2 awg wire for 10' of extension, bump it up to 1/0 for 20'. Yammies have a lot of electrical components that become unreliable under 10 VDC, and you will have a significant draw from the starter on a motor that size.

The rats nest can definitely be dealt with via a fuse block. feed it from the switch. I would avoid a breaker style, they just dont blow fast enough.

Going to leave it at that before go on a server congesting rant

Thanks Hoochiebob. The past advice is from past experience so this is really informative,

 

[gungadin]

Great advice. Thanks for the thoughts. Just took another look at the present situation and really need to separate the fuel delivery from the electrical supply for my peace of mind. Battery move will likely be the 'easiest'.

Agree completely, easier to step out of a burning car, than a burning boat

 

[Bill 310]

We were looking at a used Lifetimer centre console. The fuel tank was under the floor of the centre console( under the aluminum floor) and as part of the build the owner had the battery mounted in the centre console. This left the exposed (visible) fuel lines and racor filter under the transom. They had a large cooler for ice and hopefully fish at the stern against the front of the transom well.

In motorcycling this is often called mass centralization and doesn't apply to boats but I like the term.