Looking for advice on diesel heaters

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I put the fuel tank in the back deck compartment. Including the fuel pump. When it’s running I can barely hear the pump clicking. Which is good for the person sleeping near it. I ran it for 12 hours yesterday and no CO2 alarm. On 2/6 it kept the boat at 23 degrees. I’m surprised at the amount of heat it kicks out. I’m the future I’m going to expand the ducting to heat the downstairs cabin and blow on the windows. But for now I’m ready for winter springs and prawning.
 
Does anyone know if the knock-offs can be a straight swap for an espar? Using the same ducting, exhaust etc. My espar has been at Roton for two months and by the sounds of it, it's just in a pile of "repairs" that they end up repacing with new ones. Sounds like they're having labour issues over there too..
 
Does anyone know if the knock-offs can be a straight swap for an espar? Using the same ducting, exhaust etc. My espar has been at Roton for two months and by the sounds of it, it's just in a pile of "repairs" that they end up repacing with new ones. Sounds like they're having labour issues over there too..
I think the exhaust size and thru hull size would be the biggest factor? I just looked at the Espar D2 and it looks very similar? I don’t think it would be too hard. The output and input ducts are 3” on the Chinese model. If the Espar isn’t then you could fab up some adapters? This is what I did to adapt to my current bus heater ductwork. I bought a small piece of aluminum 4” dryer duct and riveted it to my sizeB0ABCBAF-5FC9-4C94-9A72-4B77643C02F4.jpeg
 
I watched a YouTube about a guy, in England, who heated his house with a Chinese heater. He was taking it apart to clean it. He stated he ran everything through it, for 2 years. Old motor oil, vegetable oil, and basically any kind of oil around the house. It was dirty, no doubt. But what I took away from it was how reliable and robust it was, for the price.
 
I think the exhaust size and thru hull size would be the biggest factor? I just looked at the Espar D2 and it looks very similar? I don’t think it would be too hard. The output and input ducts are 3” on the Chinese model. If the Espar isn’t then you could fab up some adapters? This is what I did to adapt to my current bus heater ductwork. I bought a small piece of aluminum 4” dryer duct and riveted it to my sizeView attachment 88759
Nice. Yeah I can't see this being all that difficult. I would like to add another outlet as well. The heat comes out of only one outlet and you need to blast the v-berth in order to get any heat in the kitchen. Not the most elegant system in the world.
 
I would stay away from using anything metal in the air duct. It gets piping hot. I did that once and ended up roasting the air duct. The duct material is insulated with paper. It will get roasted and crispy.
 
I would stay away from using anything metal in the air duct. It gets piping hot. I did that once and ended up roasting the air duct. The duct material is insulated with paper. It will get roasted and crispy.
Yeas it does get hot. My infrared thermometer says about 155 degrees. I just used it as a joint and it is internalized in the two pipes. When I do my duct upgrade I’m going to use the foil type on Amazon
 
Yeas it does get hot. My infrared thermometer says about 155 degrees. I just used it as a joint and it is internalized in the two pipes. When I do my duct upgrade I’m going to use the foil type on Amazon

I know what your doing there. It will end up cooking that insulated ducting.
 
So you’re not a fan of the duct that comes with the kit? Or the metal transition will cook the foil type?
I'm saying that the stuff that comes with the kit is 3 layer insulated ducting and if you put metal parts in there it will cook the stuff. Least that's what happened to me twice

What happens is the area where it's in contact with the metal union will get roasted and just fall apart over maybe a year year and a bit. Depend on how much you use it. We use the one in the coaster all year long so I think in that regard I got about a year then I had to change the whole duct
 
I'm saying that the stuff that comes with the kit is 3 layer insulated ducting and if you put metal parts in there it will cook the stuff. Least that's what happened to me twice

What happens is the area where it's in contact with the metal union will get roasted and just fall apart over maybe a year year and a bit. Depend on how much you use it. We use the one in the coaster all year long so I think in that regard I got about a year then I had to change the whole duct
Ok thankss good to know. I see on Amazon that they have plastic transition/union pieces. I’ll add them to my parts list.
 
Does anyone know if the knock-offs can be a straight swap for an espar? Using the same ducting, exhaust etc. My espar has been at Roton for two months and by the sounds of it, it's just in a pile of "repairs" that they end up repacing with new ones. Sounds like they're having labour issues over there too..

I had all the espars changed out on our semi tractors, all on warranty, 2018's bad batch.
 
I had all the espars changed out on our semi tractors, all on warranty, 2018's bad batch.
Pretty sure the Espars are the same. what is it.. 26 27 mm exhaust and the air ducting is the same. Thinkbits the bigger wabastos is when the exhaust goes up a size, their smaller units are the smaller 26 27mm exhaust

@Raincity

Time for a warm boat so you can warm up some bacon with some prawns
 
should be same size exhaust if they’re the same size unit 24mm. 3” ducting. You’ll have to re wire but that’s not too difficult. Glad your happy with the vevor unit mine has been good but I’m on my 3rd pump so carry a spare.
 
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