If a big spring won't release off the rigger because of a soft hit...don't snap it off the rigger yourself. If the fish hasn't hit it hard enough to pull free it likely hasn't hit hard enough to set the hooks in either. By snapping it off the rigger you give the fish some slack line and if he is shaking his head the hooks will drop out and by by fish. Instead fight the urge to pop it off and either hit the throttle which will put instant pressure on the hooks/fish causing the hooks to dig in and the fish will resist this as well making him trip off...or turn your rigger on and keep up to it with the reel to keep the line tight...dragging him up 10 feet is all it takes and he will not like being dragged towards the surface and will make him pop it off.
Key Tips To Consistent Mature Chinook Hook Ups
- Thread starter profisher
- Start date
plumbcrazy
Member
One thing that hasn't been talked about to much is Voltage. If you have a 'hot' boat you will not EVER catch a big spring! Something to check
how about dropping the DR to release-less bow in the line-speed up takes out that bow in the line
scott craven
Well-Known Member
Yes ! it's counter intuitive but works.
salmon slayer
Active Member
Just out of curiosity, how do you check your boat voltage.
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hambone
Well-Known Member
Dropping also works but if you're already rubbing bottom it isn't an option. Unless it's a tiny fish, raising the ball will get it off the clip every time. Either way you need someone on the rod.
Aces
Well-Known Member
scott craven
Well-Known Member
Dropping also works but if you're already rubbing bottom it isn't an option. Unless it's a tiny fish, raising the ball will get it off the clip every time. Either way you need someone on the rod.
I disagree with that, considering line belly and speed of the rigger
you can end up with a lot of slack line.
many times the rod man can't reel fast enough.
Canso
Well-Known Member
I never thought of bringing it up, I always go down with the rigger or just start reeling while the rod is still in the holder.
Good tips, thanks for sharing
hambone
Well-Known Member
It works well for me, I did this guiding so I had absolute rookies on the rods as well. The fish pops the clip right away and starts peeling line, so no issue with line belly. In fact, the rigger probably gives a better hook set than the angler could possibly give. I've primarily done this fishing 100' plus and never had a legal Chinook stay on the rigger while it comes up for longer than a couple seconds. Either way works
wolf
Well-Known Member
I agree with other bring it up I said that in a earlier post also set pins TIGHT if a fish pops it off hes usually on look back at what I wrote,
As for voltage you need a multi meter put the neg on the battery and pos on your wire but test it out fishing with all that you run sounder, kicker, music everything..
good luck Wolf
As for voltage you need a multi meter put the neg on the battery and pos on your wire but test it out fishing with all that you run sounder, kicker, music everything..
good luck Wolf
searun
Well-Known Member
I have no problem with the Coastal Dr 1 or the Amundson tmx-5 reels... larger arbour...
Ya, but not everyone has Popeye forearms for reeling like a mad man.
Englishman
Well-Known Member
Lots of really great information and observations here. Great thread. Sure helps a "regular" guy like me.
However after five years of fishing Sooke (not much maybe compared to the experts on here) I do have an opinion. I think Profisher's original point #3 in the first post is the most important and should be #1.
Being at the right location on the right tides is key and is the main reason many are more successful. I still do not really know when to fish where. (I'm talking about just Sooke here where fish are fewer in number than say Haida Gwai, Swiftsure or Nootka and exact location is maybe not so important).
You can have the most reliable and fishy roll, the sharpest hooks, the best knots, and invisible fluorocarbon leaders but you still cannot catch a fish that is not there. In Sooke it is about location, location, location and you can only learn that by experience and keeping a detailed log of what fish were caught where and the state of the tide at the time. Patterns may then emerge.
I keep a log but I have not been able to see any patterns yet. Last year it was the Bluffs and Sheringham that produced a few for me. This year it is harbour mouth and Possession for the small number I have caught. I have no idea why. Until I work some more of this out and understand where to be at what state of the tide (and what area to troll) it will remain a bit hit or miss.
P.S. Smell may be important as well. We humans have an amino acid on our skin called L-serine and salmon have been shown scientifically to be very sensitive to it. Here is a link to a paper but there is a lot more on the web about this.
http://jgp.rupress.org/content/39/6/889.abstract
As result, I always bait up using gloves.......
However after five years of fishing Sooke (not much maybe compared to the experts on here) I do have an opinion. I think Profisher's original point #3 in the first post is the most important and should be #1.
Being at the right location on the right tides is key and is the main reason many are more successful. I still do not really know when to fish where. (I'm talking about just Sooke here where fish are fewer in number than say Haida Gwai, Swiftsure or Nootka and exact location is maybe not so important).
You can have the most reliable and fishy roll, the sharpest hooks, the best knots, and invisible fluorocarbon leaders but you still cannot catch a fish that is not there. In Sooke it is about location, location, location and you can only learn that by experience and keeping a detailed log of what fish were caught where and the state of the tide at the time. Patterns may then emerge.
I keep a log but I have not been able to see any patterns yet. Last year it was the Bluffs and Sheringham that produced a few for me. This year it is harbour mouth and Possession for the small number I have caught. I have no idea why. Until I work some more of this out and understand where to be at what state of the tide (and what area to troll) it will remain a bit hit or miss.
P.S. Smell may be important as well. We humans have an amino acid on our skin called L-serine and salmon have been shown scientifically to be very sensitive to it. Here is a link to a paper but there is a lot more on the web about this.
http://jgp.rupress.org/content/39/6/889.abstract
As result, I always bait up using gloves.......
Last edited by a moderator:
scott craven
Well-Known Member
Think about what direction the current is flowing. now think about which structures will cause back eddies.
you should be planning your trip around this when possible.
currents will push bait and fish into the back eddies where they hold waiting for slack water when they can move much easier.
In Victoria for example Trial island creates a natural back eddy on the west side on an ebb and on the east side on a flood.
you should be planning your trip around this when possible.
currents will push bait and fish into the back eddies where they hold waiting for slack water when they can move much easier.
In Victoria for example Trial island creates a natural back eddy on the west side on an ebb and on the east side on a flood.
Last edited by a moderator:
danthewire
Active Member
Think like a fish
Roland...here is the best tip you are going to get...I won't give you an Otter Point tip as you lack confidence there. Be at the light an hour before the end of the ebb current (not the tide..the end of ebb flow) and stay there until the flood kicks in. There are other productive periods there but remember that one and stay there. And watch what is happening around you and get to where the action is. (without getting involved with someone else's hookup
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