Keel rollers

[gungadin]

It has been harder then usual for me to push the whaler off at the ramp, so the last time l launched l checked the keel rollers before heading out. They were bent downward (axle through them bent) and no longer rotated and had an obvious flat spot. I replaced them all two years ago, and am dissapointed at how quickly they have failed. I only have three rollers, all 10 inch ones. As l do not depend on the bunks for weight support, (ok well l do now, what with the bent axles), but rather as guides for aligning the boat when retrieving, l am considering going to 8 inch rollers and doubling them up fo a total of six rollers. The idea being the smaller shafts will not bend so easily, and with twice the number, the rollers will take less weight individually. I don't need the rollers to align the boat on the trailer, as the bunks do that very well, just weight support. I have been reading up on rollers and it seems that Stoltz make a good roller. Anybody have any idea where to get them on the island, or practicle experience with them? Any other insights would be appreciated as well.

 

[Marko]

What size is the Whaler?

I have 6 under my Outrage 18, 3 tandems setups...10" at the stern, then 8's. I ordered the Stoltz rollers out of the US, as I wasn't able to find them here, and didn't like the Tie-Down option. Make up stainless shafts and install with lots of grease.

Another tip for an older Whaler is to add one more keel roller as far forward as possible, which will hold the bow up so the smirk doesn't hang up on you winch roller when launching at a steep ramp.

I hope this helps.

 

[gungadin]

It is a 16 ft clone, a bit heavier then a Boston Whaler. The trailer originally came only with bunks, but l added the rollers, as it needed a steep ramp to float off, and l often launch at a shallow ramp. It worked great for two years, and l could launch pushing with just minimal effort.
I found a source for the stainless steel roundbar, but don't know what grade would be best for shafting ( strength and corrosion wise).
I have the front keel roller mounted as far forward as possible, when the boat rolls (?) off it, the bow drops and misses the bow stops by about 3 inches.
The boat does not sit level on the trailer, but rather the slopes downward toward the stern, and the bunks and rollers are higher in the front then the back of the trailer.
I was thinking of welding a washer on one end of the shaft, and using a washer and cotter pin on the other, with about an eighth inch clearance between the washer and roller. How did you secure the shafts in place, and do you regrease the shafts?

 

[Trophy]

Gungadin, I have a 23ft trophy with a older tandem trailer (all black wobble and keel rollers), replaced them all two years ago with similar cheap black rollers. Mistake, I see they are starting to break already so I just ordered some of the good quality stotlz rollers from the states. The shafts with holes and pins were a pain to get the old rusted cotter pins out even with good quality drill bits. Replaced shafts with the ends that accepted caps for easier removeal next time. The ones I changed havent poped off so far.

 

[Marko]

DON'T buy or use the crappy zinc coated pins or the hammer on end caps they come with. All will rust.
Use 316 Stainless for the pins, stainless washers & stainless cotter pins and grease them up with marine grease on install.

When I made mine, I had the metal shop cut the pins the length for me, then I drilled holes for the cotters on my drill press at home. The stainless is not as hard as one might think, drilling the holes was not hard.

The reason Stoltz rollers are worth ordering, is because they have a metal insert so they will never deform.

Once these are installed, you'll be good for the life of the trailer.