Inboard Deck Repair

[Sandpiper]

I am at the point in my project on a 1996 Hardtop 20 foot double eagle where I am hoping to get some direction from the fibreglass community on what the best plan of action would be to fill the old inboard hole at the back of my boat. I would like to use marine plywood to span the hole and laminate 2- 3/4 plywood sections around the perimeter drilled into the stringers to support the decking I will be placing over top of it.

My questions is what is your preferred layup for the 3/4 Marine Plywood piece that spans the approximate 3 foot by 4 foot section. I have Unwaxed poly resin that I used to fill some holes previously would this be a good resin to use and what type of cloths and how many layers should I use for the actual deck piece. I believe that I will use some gelcoat and sand to make some non skid for this piece when complete. Here are some pictures.

Dan

 

[Rayvon]

First of all that is valuable storage space,I would cut out the engine beds,a sawzall will do most of it.If there's a thru-hull,get rid of it unless you want to use it for raw water washdown with a ball valve shutoff. I would probably fix a rear bulkhead about a foot from transom,that will be your sump.Then you can get some aluminum U channel to run around the hatch opening to catch rain water and empty into sump area(your deck won't be high enough for self bailing I don't think).The sump will have an auto switch to a bilge pump.If you run the U channel at the right height ,it will carry your deck hatch.It looks like your deck is just glass on top of plywood,so you can do the same for the hatch.Reinforce with triangle fir pieces under hatch to span the biggest distance.Fwd and aft or port to stbd,doesn't matter.I would just start with sealing the plywood ,especially the end core.Then mat.cloth .mat all round and over the stiffeners.You can do this before setting your alum. channel to set it at the right height,so your deck is flush.Hinges and flush pulls if you like. Make sure your resin/MEK/gelcoat isn't old,it won't cure if too old.Long reply,but I'm stuck here with a sling on my other arm,so I hope that helps.

 

[Fixit]

Call up fiber tek in Burnaby. Tell them your a fiber noobie and need some guidance

they will coach you through the layup and the materials you will need (and sell you them)

great people!

 

[Sandpiper]

First of all that is valuable storage space,I would cut out the engine beds,a sawzall will do most of it.If there's a thru-hull,get rid of it unless you want to use it for raw water washdown with a ball valve shutoff. I would probably fix a rear bulkhead about a foot from transom,that will be your sump.Then you can get some aluminum U channel to run around the hatch opening to catch rain water and empty into sump area(your deck won't be high enough for self bailing I don't think).The sump will have an auto switch to a bilge pump.If you run the U channel at the right height ,it will carry your deck hatch.It looks like your deck is just glass on top of plywood,so you can do the same for the hatch.Reinforce with triangle fir pieces under hatch to span the biggest distance.Fwd and aft or port to stbd,doesn't matter.I would just start with sealing the plywood ,especially the end core.Then mat.cloth .mat all round and over the stiffeners.You can do this before setting your alum. channel to set it at the right height,so your deck is flush.Hinges and flush pulls if you like. Make sure your resin/MEK/gelcoat isn't old,it won't cure if too old.Long reply,but I'm stuck here with a sling on my other arm,so I hope that helps.

Thank you for the thought out response I most likely will be going this route for the Deck patch. I am going to try to use some sand into some waxed gelcoat for the final layup. Do you have any experience with the gelcoat and non skid application?

 

[Rayvon]

I've never done a roll on non-skid on a boat.I've always used a diamond shaped fiberglass non-skid.You can buy the vinyl to use in a mold,but not the finished fiberglass as far as I know.Have you thought about using Seadek? I'd be careful using sand or other abrasives in your gelcoat ,it would be hard on leaders and hard to make look even/good.Just a rolled on gelcoat would look better and shouldn't be too slippery.You have a nice looking boat,I think I've seen it in Sooke or Victoria before.

 

[brutus]

I've never done a roll on non-skid on a boat.I've always used a diamond shaped fiberglass non-skid.You can buy the vinyl to use in a mold,but not the finished fiberglass as far as I know.Have you thought about using Seadek? I'd be careful using sand or other abrasives in your gelcoat ,it would be hard on leaders and hard to make look even/good.Just a rolled on gelcoat would look better and shouldn't be too slippery.You have a nice looking boat,I think I've seen it in Sooke or Victoria before.

Sand in gel coat turns out ******, don’t do it.

 

[Sandpiper]

I've never done a roll on non-skid on a boat.I've always used a diamond shaped fiberglass non-skid.You can buy the vinyl to use in a mold,but not the finished fiberglass as far as I know.Have you thought about using Seadek? I'd be careful using sand or other abrasives in your gelcoat ,it would be hard on leaders and hard to make look even/good.Just a rolled on gelcoat would look better and shouldn't be too slippery.You have a nice looking boat,I think I've seen it in Sooke or Victoria before.

Good point this is what my boat currently has on its deck is the diamond shape pattern. I was watching the boatworks today episode where he made a mould but the vinyl sounds much easier. Do you happen to know where I could source some of the vinyl from?

 

[Rayvon]

The vinyl is meant to be used as a mold for the fiberglass product,not as a finish.If your deck has the diamond non-skid,you can wax it ,PVA (mold release) and gelcoat and lay a 1 1/2 oz. mat on top.Pull it off,shape and stick on top of your patch/hatch.The PVA will stop the gelcoat from sticking to your deck and will wash off,leaving your deck clean as new.If your in Victoria,I can help you out with how to do it,it's not hard.

 

[Sandpiper]

The vinyl is meant to be used as a mold for the fiberglass product,not as a finish.If your deck has the diamond non-skid,you can wax it ,PVA (mold release) and gelcoat and lay a 1 1/2 oz. mat on top.Pull it off,shape and stick on top of your patch/hatch.The PVA will stop the gelcoat from sticking to your deck and will wash off,leaving your deck clean as new.If your in Victoria,I can help you out with how to do it,it's not hard.

I would really appreciate that when I am ready for this stage I will send you a message. I am just out in Langford, I will ditch the sand and see if we can put the diamond pattern on there. Just a pricing update for anyone thats looking for 3/4 Marine ply its around $200 a sheet now