Idea For a Baithead....

Seafever

Well-Known Member
Just putting this out there......if you have the time and money to make it.......which I don't.....

(1) This the holder......made of clear or UV clear plastic....the kind of plastic that is durable and can be rebent by heating it in hot water....it would come in different sizes.

(2) the dotted line is the leader line...going through a hole in the head (can be further strengthened by putting a toothpick in there)...goes along the inside of lure through an eyelet at the tail where you tie on an appropriate hook that extends a bit past the tail of the bait ( probably a swivel there).

(3) red image shows the bait inside the holder with a toothpick through the head. back end of bait is secured to lure with a rubber band (or something else not thought of yet).

(4) green line is the toothpick going through the head to hold bait in.

Lure can be heated in hot water and prebent to any curve or roll you like. Single hook sticks out past tail for short biters.

Lure is clear or UV clear plastic.

Line won't pull out or slip because it's going through a strong eyelet at the back and it's further strengthened by a toothpick at the front of the head......




001.jpg
 
I can't recall ever seeing them..........

I've got herring strip teaser heads...but the plastic body isn't that long and the strip isn't connected to the body...it just hangs free as does the hook......
 
interesting, but you can't tune the roll. What happens if the current is honking 2kts and you're trolling into it vs. trolling with the current? You'll need a different bend in those 2 situations.
 
Since they are made of a kind of plastic that can be rebent by heating them in hot water (just like a Sea-Four lure), that is why you would have 3 or 4 of them on board already prebent for certain situations
and tied up ready to go.

And because they are bendable when heated....you can bend them any way you like.
 
but how would you know what bend is needed while sitting in your kitchen? wind, current, speed etc. are all moving variables that you'll need to take into account at the moment you're setting her gear in the water. To assume you'll get the bend just right in your kitchen is pretty ambitious.

I don't know about you but I often set my bait to what I think is the right bend, test it in the water and then tune it, sometimes it takes 3-4 tries to get it just right.


Now if that trailing part was something bendable you'd have a winner, because you could lock in the right roll and not worry about your chovie going limp.
 
Hey Seafever,
That bait head would be pretty easy to draw up in CAD and then get 3D printed if you want to test it out. 3D printing is pretty cheap these days.
 
Wishiniwasfishin1........thanks I'll check that out.......

Poppa Swiss.....yes that 's something to be worked out...right now it's just a drawing on paper. The main issue would be searching for a plastic that:-

(1) Doesn't break and is durable to with stand fish bites and hits.

(2) Can be bent.........preferably without having to heat the plastic up in any method.

There could be extra line holes in the head to tune the roll also....

I don't think making it out of bendable metal would serve any purpose....the idea being that the entire piece of bait can be seen through clear plastic.....


The whole idea behind this was to get that hook down to the end of the bait where it belongs.......:)
 
I have a 3D printer and I'm no expert but, I think that even with the CAD it would be difficult to print a perfect piece of that design. There would be a lot of post-print finishing, like my project. You would also have to build a "raft" or some sort of support structure in order to print the over-hangs resulting in more post-print tooling ...like my project. Then drilling, acetone vapour bath...
Don't get me wrong, it is possible but not on a commercial scale. Get a few done and fart around with them a bit. My first proto-types I carved out of fiber glass with a dremmel.
 
It can be drawn in Solid Works( That is the 3D CAD software 90% of us use)...and print it.... Don't waste your time in Auto CAD its not format that can be used you need it drawn in 3d. You can just about any shape as long as your wall thicknesses are strong enough. And AJ is right you need to have it built up in areas, so post finishing may be required... Another thing that can be done is to make the 3D print and than create a mold from it...Than you just pour whatever material you need..If you want it clear that gets tricky. The bait head no big deal. But that long curved piece can be a little weak.. The best materials I found for strength are in ABS on 3D printing....

You may want to for prototyping think of it in two pieces just to test it... If you do plan to go production with a shape like that you may look at higher tooling costs, so that needs to be considered as well. This is the expensive part of the process I have seen injection molded tool range for minimum 10K all the way up to 100k. Printers are not meant to do high volume, but great for testing/evaluation. Just something to keep in mind.

There is your free advice...

Jerrod
 
I've been working on a head holder for the past couple years, have put it on hold because I was told the tooling/mold costs were going to be 10-15 thousand...
 
That's what kept me out of it.....and if I had to go through what AJ went through to get a lure produced, I'd be in a comfortable rubber room somewhere these days.........:p
 
buck the shape up out of f/glass and see how it hold's up spin's and weather it can take a few beatings for mr spring
i'll help you along just use a fdr teaser or RD teaser head and graft the body plate on

as i am getting fed up with the belly on mr chovy spilling out
and try as i may had no luck with the fake ones in a teaser head
 
Maybe we should do a SFBC kickstarter type deal where everyone kicks in a few bucks to get this thing made and then in return gets a couple when they are produced? I'd be in for that...
 
Lots of bugs to be worked out on this thing yet.....

I could make a proto out of fibreglass...but then I wouldn't have the option of bending the tail (as I would with the type of plastic that can be heated in hot hot water and then bent)



There are a number of "fixed action" lures out there.........like the Tomic TNT for example...or an Apex etc etc etc.............so I don't know what the users do with these when they encounter a situation as described like "bucking a two knot current".

Personally with those kind of lures I just make sure I'm not bucking currents....

I didn't want to have a "fixed" roll though.....
 
Lots of bugs to be worked out on this thing yet.....

I could make a proto out of fibreglass...but then I wouldn't have the option of bending the tail (as I would with the type of plastic that can be heated in hot hot water and then bent)



There are a number of "fixed action" lures out there.........like the Tomic TNT for example...or an Apex etc etc etc.............so I don't know what the users do with these when they encounter a situation as described like "bucking a two knot current".

Personally with those kind of lures I just make sure I'm not bucking currents....

I didn't want to have a "fixed" roll though.....

I am fairly busy now sea fever but I am sure if AJ would print it out I could whip up a quick model for you to try out... Maybe we could trade for something....You have lots of tackle lol...
 
I've been working on a head holder for the past couple years, have put it on hold because I was told the tooling/mold costs were going to be 10-15 thousand...

Really? 10-15 that is surprising for that... I was wondering what you did with that. If you ever do move on that Gary I would take it offshore.... A lot of places overseas will absorb the tooling cost if you have a high volume that you will be ordering.
 
Back
Top