How many of you have TR1??
- Thread starter pescador
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Thunder21
Well-Known Member
I had one and for the most part it was great. My boat was light so in a strong wind it would be tough to turn at times. Unlike the tie bar setups , the tr1 only turns the kicker so it sort of fights the main engine. At times I had to steer the main a bit to help it around corners. When fishing alone it really is great. It keeps the boat straight while you drop gear and all you need to do is glance forward. The throttle function is very nice and allows you to dial in your speed in small increments . My current boat doesn't have one and I do miss it. I should have pulled it off before I sold the last boat .
I know a few guys with them and all have had issues. I only use my pilot to steer the boat in windy conditions when I want to check the gear and not have to worry about steering the boat while I run through the gear. Then I take over on the helm. I bought a Comnav 1420 over 20 years ago and that unit still works today. Made in Vancouver and most of the commercial guys used Comnav units. My unit steers both the main and kicker so it can hold a coarse even in the strongest winds and current.
I have had a TR1 for 10 years and have replaced a pump once due to a leaking seal.
I would hate to go back to fishing without one.
Absolutely the only way to go unless you have someone that likes to drive all day.
I fish with a group of 4 boats all with TR1's all feel the same.
I would hate to go back to fishing without one.
Absolutely the only way to go unless you have someone that likes to drive all day.
I fish with a group of 4 boats all with TR1's all feel the same.
fishnwhenIcan
Well-Known Member
I have the TR1 but if I had it to do again, I would do a rear helm with a tie bar between both engines. I just don't find it keeps up in the wind or heavier currents.
pescador
Well-Known Member
So I hear these sorts of comments from people. I don't understand why anyone would buy if it doesn't keep up with wind or currents. That's the whole purpose of it. I wonder if your kicker motor capability has some influence on how the system performs? I fish solo quite a bit and want to set a course while I'm bringing in the gear or setting it. I need it to track straight or the way I tell it to. Couple of other questions. Do you all use the wired remote, or, prefer the wireless version. Wireless seems the best approach, but, I'd like your views. Do they make motor manufacturer specific versions, or, does one size fit all? Also, has anybody found a good priced supplier? I see the GPS store has them for $2700 approx. plus cost of installation.
I installed one on my boat. I hear some people have issues with it but I haven't.
At times it can work a little hard in wakes, waves but it still keeps me straight.
I fish alone 90% of the time and I wouldn't be without one. Setting the gear with the boat being kept straight is good but when you have a fish on that's when it shines.
I'd get the itroll to go with it as well, about the same cost as the throttle part on the TR1 but much better made.
I bought from GPS city here in Canada and can't understand why they are so cheap. I installed it myself, if your in any way shape or form handy it's too easy. Just follow the instructions word for word and its child's play.
Like I said, for the guy out on his own, it's a gift. Buy one.
At times it can work a little hard in wakes, waves but it still keeps me straight.
I fish alone 90% of the time and I wouldn't be without one. Setting the gear with the boat being kept straight is good but when you have a fish on that's when it shines.
I'd get the itroll to go with it as well, about the same cost as the throttle part on the TR1 but much better made.
I bought from GPS city here in Canada and can't understand why they are so cheap. I installed it myself, if your in any way shape or form handy it's too easy. Just follow the instructions word for word and its child's play.
Like I said, for the guy out on his own, it's a gift. Buy one.
fishnwhenIcan
Well-Known Member
Maybe my boat plays into it to some degree. Mine could be a bit of a kite. I know I was at T10 a few weeks ago and by the time I checked a single line I'd be facing the complete opposite direction and a mile or more off course just trying to get turned back around. It was pretty frustrating. At Sand heads, I don't even attempt auto anywhere near the mouth.
In calm conditions, well then it's fine. But once the wind comes up or the currents are pushing then I'm off auto and controlling it on manual. I've played and landed a lot of fish solo using it but I have it where I can reach it and have lost a a couple reaching to adjust my course. Certainly better than not having it but not what I think it should be.
In calm conditions, well then it's fine. But once the wind comes up or the currents are pushing then I'm off auto and controlling it on manual. I've played and landed a lot of fish solo using it but I have it where I can reach it and have lost a a couple reaching to adjust my course. Certainly better than not having it but not what I think it should be.
Sir Reel
Well-Known Member
I have one on my Sea Sport which weighs around 8000 pounds. The Yamaha T9.9 can hold a perfect course in wind or tide. As a matter of fact I have tried hand steering and there is no way I can keep a course as good as it does.
We were at Sand Heads a few weekends ago with 4 knot current and wind and it held course just fine.
I did have to play with the settings to dial it in. They are well documented in the manual and you have to play a round with them to see what works for you. Another thing that may be a factor is we troll fairly fast 2.5 to 3 mph and due to the size of the boat the kicker is at a fairly good rpm so perhaps when it turns it has more power to bring it in line. I also had a failure of my compass ball which caused it to do really weird things. Once I replaced that it was back to normal.
As for battery drain I have 2 large deep cycle house batteries and we can troll 8 or 10 hours and still have lots of battery left. I monitor my battery voltage and the downriggers have a bigger effect on the batteries.
My Yamaha charges the house batteries while we are trolling. It is a real bonus if you are fishing alone. Just make sure you wear a life jacket and use the safety lanyard cause if you go over board it will happily troll into the sunset!
We were at Sand Heads a few weekends ago with 4 knot current and wind and it held course just fine.
I did have to play with the settings to dial it in. They are well documented in the manual and you have to play a round with them to see what works for you. Another thing that may be a factor is we troll fairly fast 2.5 to 3 mph and due to the size of the boat the kicker is at a fairly good rpm so perhaps when it turns it has more power to bring it in line. I also had a failure of my compass ball which caused it to do really weird things. Once I replaced that it was back to normal.
As for battery drain I have 2 large deep cycle house batteries and we can troll 8 or 10 hours and still have lots of battery left. I monitor my battery voltage and the downriggers have a bigger effect on the batteries.
My Yamaha charges the house batteries while we are trolling. It is a real bonus if you are fishing alone. Just make sure you wear a life jacket and use the safety lanyard cause if you go over board it will happily troll into the sunset!
trophywife
Crew Member
got rid of it and got a rear helm... motor was always floppin around at low speed..
fishnwhenIcan
Well-Known Member
Maybe they don't work well on the aluminum boats. Some of you guys have them on Grady's and Seasports and such that are heavier and Deeper. Maybe they are easier to control in the wind and current than our alloys.
I know Gord martin of Foghorn has the unit on his Wellcraft and he admits that in strong winds he has to shut the unit down and start up the main as the TR-1 can't keep the boat on coarse. If you are looking to keep a straight coarse in strong wind and currents you need pilot that will turn both the main and kicker for maximum helm response. Only a true autopilot can do this in my opinion. This requires that both the main and kicker have hydraulic cylinders attached and that the pilot pump is able to move both engines. I have an inline valve installed as well which allows me to set it so that just the main moves or set it so both move. I have both move while fishing and just the main while running.
I have an old Scotty Troll Guide in a box in the basement, must be 40 years old that I got with a boat many years ago. Quite innovative for its day, a motor in the old Scotty blue plastic housing with a rubber drive wheel, a bracket that bolted to the dash that the motor attached to and then the rubber drive wheel stayed in contact with the steering wheel rim with a kind of bungee cord. A long cord with a toggle switch and belt clip so you could turn the boat either direction with a flick of the toggle from anywhere in the boat. There must be a retro boat guy out there who needs it 
If it's too windy for the TR1 to keep up then you will never be able to hand steer with your kicker and you would have to be on your main.
Tilt your mains up for better response.
I have an 8hp Yamaha on my 28 Kingfisher and it works like a dream.
No issue with battery use.
Also if you are drift fishing it will hold a course in reverse and you can set your drift speed with the throttle.
I have thousands of hours on mine.
tyeeking
Active Member
Love my TR-1 as does everyone who fishes from my boat. I've had mine for 9 years, did the installation myself. I have had zero problems with it and it gets used a lot.
I run a 22' Weldcraft Mavrick with a 2 foot pod/hull extension. My trolling motor is a T-8. When trolling my electrical is off of a dedicated series 27 deep cycle that is being charged by the trolling motor. Downriggers, TR-1 and all electronics are working off of the dedicated trolling battery and I have zero issues with running out of juice. I've measured amperage draw and the TR-1 is pretty minimal, especially when compared to the downriggers.
Proper installation and then tuning are key to getting good performance. It's important to experiment with the various settings and not be afraid of changing them for the current conditions. Also as others have mentioned tilting the big motor up helps a lot. Just make sure that when you tune the unit you also do that with the big motor up.
On rare occasions I have had sea states that made the TR-1 work awfully hard but those are rare and frankly pretty marginal conditions for safe and enjoyable fishing.
I run a 22' Weldcraft Mavrick with a 2 foot pod/hull extension. My trolling motor is a T-8. When trolling my electrical is off of a dedicated series 27 deep cycle that is being charged by the trolling motor. Downriggers, TR-1 and all electronics are working off of the dedicated trolling battery and I have zero issues with running out of juice. I've measured amperage draw and the TR-1 is pretty minimal, especially when compared to the downriggers.
Proper installation and then tuning are key to getting good performance. It's important to experiment with the various settings and not be afraid of changing them for the current conditions. Also as others have mentioned tilting the big motor up helps a lot. Just make sure that when you tune the unit you also do that with the big motor up.
On rare occasions I have had sea states that made the TR-1 work awfully hard but those are rare and frankly pretty marginal conditions for safe and enjoyable fishing.
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