High Tech Jigging

Appreciate all the helpful responses. I set up with 30lbs SeaGuard mono tied to 80lbs braided as recommended by the shop I picked new Trevala rods up at. For terminal end I used a swivel and split ring which worked well for switching jigs. We were up in Nootka and had a chance to try them out at Beano where a previous group had reported the previous day being very productive, but could only find lings and rock cod though we couldn’t keep them off the jigs. Twice my wife had big take downs both of which snapped the leader taking the jig which makes me rethink the leader as a toothy ling or small Hali will break the flouro pretty easily.

We lost a nice double while trolling due to my failed double uni I tied up just before headed out to on this trip…..something that my wife and I agreed only to revisit during supervised counseling sessions:) so I’ll have to study a better connection as I question the value of braided backer.

IMG_1765.png
 
Appreciate all the helpful responses. I set up with 30lbs SeaGuard mono tied to 80lbs braided as recommended by the shop I picked new Trevala rods up at. For terminal end I used a swivel and split ring which worked well for switching jigs. We were up in Nootka and had a chance to try them out at Beano where a previous group had reported the previous day being very productive, but could only find lings and rock cod though we couldn’t keep them off the jigs. Twice my wife had big take downs both of which snapped the leader taking the jig which makes me rethink the leader as a toothy ling or small Hali will break the flouro pretty easily.

We lost a nice double while trolling due to my failed double uni I tied up just before headed out to on this trip…..something that my wife and I agreed only to revisit during supervised counseling sessions:) so I’ll have to study a better connection as I question the value of braided backer.

View attachment 95775
Just my take but I don't like the amount of sh*t you have in front of that jig. May be your problem. Also on the split ring thing your swivel should be up at the braid-the split ring ALONE is at the end of the mono or fluor. Lose the bead. The jig is supposed to flutter down looking like a bait fish -you need the least amount of crap on that jig, I tie direct.
 
Last edited:
Just my take but I don't like the amount of sh*t you have in front of that jig. May be your problem. Also on the split ring thing your swivel should be up at the braid-the split ring ALONE is at the end of the mono or fluor. Lose the bead. The jig is supposed to flutter down looking like a bait fish -you need the least amount of crap on that jig, I tie direct.
Makes sense - appreciate the knowledge from previous experience and try the direct tie to the jig with a stiffer leader.
 
Makes sense - appreciate the knowledge from previous experience and try the direct tie to the jig with a stiffer leader.
50lb leader is a very common recommendation.

As for braid to leader knots, the FG or PR are some of the strongest from the research I've done. They're kind of the same knot, the PR uses a bobbin to tie, so it's a bit more of a hassle. They are both really thin, smooth on the guides.
 
Makes sense - appreciate the knowledge from previous experience and try the direct tie to the jig with a stiffer leader.
I totally agree with Mike . ( spring fever) lose all that crap. i’m pretty new to the slow pitch thing but i have already learned a few lessons with respects to terminal tackle and knots. while i acknowledge fluoro is amazing for stiffness and abrasion resistance, slow pitch has renewed my hatred for the stuff. it’s just simply not necessary..

I was having an amazing night catching lings and releasing springs as i had already tagged out on them, when i made the mistake of grabbing the leader while trying to release a wild coho. the knot parted and away swam the coho with the jig in its jaw. hope he shook it. also the fg and other connecting knots can be finicky as heck.

i recently went out with a SPJ jigging master where we pulled double digits of springs to the boat in just over two hours and he uses good old fashioned mono.
 
I've only had one knot failure on the fluoro leader, which I put down to operator error. But I'm thinking going to 60 or 80 lb mono would give the same stiffness needed to make the jig flutter and fall away from the mainline, and remove fluoro from the system altogether.

Think I'll keep the direct tie to leader going though. Split rings and/or swivels at the jig seem like they could reduce that standoff we're after.
 
I've only had one knot failure on the fluoro leader, which I put down to operator error. But I'm thinking going to 60 or 80 lb mono would give the same stiffness needed to make the jig flutter and fall away from the mainline, and remove fluoro from the system altogether.

Think I'll keep the direct tie to leader going though. Split rings and/or swivels at the jig seem like they could reduce that standoff we're after.
I agree with the direct tie-I gave up on fluor. due to brittleness.a knot failure etc-just didn't see that in mono. I would worry about going 60 to 80 mono-what if you have a bottom hookup--nobody wants to lose a jig but are you going to risk your depth hunter braid-would you put a weak link between the two.
 
I agree with the direct tie-I gave up on fluor. due to brittleness.a knot failure etc-just didn't see that in mono. I would worry about going 60 to 80 mono-what if you have a bottom hookup--nobody wants to lose a jig but are you going to risk your depth hunter braid-would you put a weak link between the two.
Fair question. Balance it up with 60 braid and 60 mono?
 
Hey guys-I know everyone knows this including me but a reminder-I had a more than solid day jigging yesterday in the rain-see campbell river reports- I had to switch rods yesterday from an epic birdsnest caused by a coho hitting on the free spool drop with some jerk (me) not on the thumb properly. So sorted it out this morning and discovered that my hooks were not that sharp. They are always sticky-had perhaps 50 hits yesterday-some right after another. If you are getting fish or are into them make sure your hooks are still good.
 
Last edited:
Hey guys-I know everyone knows this including me but a reminder-I had a more than solid day jigging yesterday in the rain-see campbell river reports- I had to switch rods yesterday from an epic birdsnest caused by a coho hitting on the free spool drop with some jerk not on the thumb properly. So sorted it out this morning and discovered that my hooks were not that sharp. They are always sticky-had perhaps 50 hits yesterday-some right after another. If you are getting fish or are into them make sure your hooks are still good.
Awesome, this is about the time I take the riggers off the boat and strictly jig.
 
Great read! Have spent some time jigging off Wilby with the mooching set up with varying levels of success. We have a small Whaler, so jigging is more appealing than trolling with kids etc.

How would a Penn Squall low profile and a Talavera Type J work for this type of fishery?
 
A good start, especially if you already have them. Get out there and try!
 
Just my take but I don't like the amount of sh*t you have in front of that jig. May be your problem. Also on the split ring thing your swivel should be up at the braid-the split ring ALONE is at the end of the mono or fluor. Lose the bead. The jig is supposed to flutter down looking like a bait fish -you need the least amount of crap on that jig, I tie direct.
X2
 
The Talavera type J works fine. I have 2 of them in the 250 gram rating that my Dad has been using this year. My other rods are Grappler Type J.
 
Great read! Have spent some time jigging off Wilby with the mooching set up with varying levels of success. We have a small Whaler, so jigging is more appealing than trolling with kids etc.

How would a Penn Squall low profile and a Talavera Type J work for this type of fishery?
i want to sell my DE 185 and get a whaler with crazy good electronics; that’s how obsessed i am with slow pitch
 
Back
Top