Maxpri
Well-Known Member
Someone’s jealous! Someone’s jealous! Lol, me too, such a nice boat SH
Help Me Mod my Boat!
- Thread starter Sharphooks
- Start date
Sir Reel
Well-Known Member
I have seawise davits sticking out off the swim grid. Has not been a problem, so far. I tie mine tight to the swim grid bow in when family boarding.
You could also tie your bow forward along the side so the swim grid is center of the dinghy.
Try it first anyway think it will work well.
One thing I did not like about the 28 is no toe kick along the gunnel so you have to have feet sideways when leaning over. Is another reason I would keep those rails.
Aquaholic
Crew Member
One of our members here has an over width Eagle Craft 34’ with a 25 Yamaha kicker hooked to the autopilot. A dream set up to see it work. The 25 pushes it so well. A vote for yes from me.
Sharphooks
Well-Known Member
Funny you should mention that. I tossed and turned in bed last night thinking about the towing issue. I tried picturing what it would be like towing that thing through downtown Victoria in July.....and through the mountain pass on the way to Port Hardy
When I asked if the trailer was part of the deal I was informed that most people who have Commanders don’t trailer them.
I have a 7.3L F250—I’m sure it’ll pull that boat. I guess the question is, will it stop that boat once you get it up to speed.
kaelc
Well-Known Member
What year is your ford? There is a place in the mainland that can upgrade gvwr at least it says on their website but if yours is an old 7.3 it might be a stretch.
I’m surprised at the estimated 10k dry weight. NMI way underestimates the dry weight of their C-Dory but that could be from previous owners/marketing.
Let’s keep to the mods on the boat for now. We love spending other peoples money!
Thunder21
Well-Known Member
Your boat is a little longer than mine but I tow a 30’ overall length boat with a 10’2” beam and it’s zero issue . I’d get some airbags and make sure the trailer brakes are in really good shape and go for it.
SpringFever552
Well-Known Member
Very nice, congrats,
Now we all want to know whats the 26 going up for?
Now we all want to know whats the 26 going up for?
CBsqrd
Well-Known Member
I'd definitely go lithium (LiPO4). The upfront price is about double (give or take) over AGM, but if you amortize it over the life of the batteries lithium will last longer and you'll recoup your cost. Also, once you start getting into bigger lithium batteries, the costs don't go up as much - i.e. a 170 AH battery is not 70% more expensive than a 100 AH battery.
Some other advantages of lithium are that they provide more usable capacity. i.e. you can draw down a 100 AH lithium deeper without damaging it than a 100 AH AGM. Also, with lead acid batteries, the voltage slowly drops as you deplete the battery; when its 100% charged you might be getting 12.5V, but at 60% it will be less like 11.8V. Lithium batteries on the other hand put out higher volts for longer before they stop to drop off - which is great for voltage sensitive electronics. On my old house battery, if I had the motors shut off while jigging and everything running (sounder, stereo, water system, fridge, etc.) it wouldn't be long before I'd start getting low voltage alarms. With the lithium battery I installed last winter I can go for a couple hours without issue.
As @myles mentioned, you'll need to remove your DVSRs and install a DC-DC charging system to charge off your outboards (and a MPPT if you go solar). It's not too difficult, here's a couple pictures of my setup - the first is everything laid out on the workbench and the second is installed on the boat. The busbar at the top feeds back to the house battery, the one on the left goes back to the common stud and the wires coming in at the bottom are from the engines.
I also installed a Victron SmartShunt battery monitor which allows for the batteries to be monitored from my phone. The Victron app also allows you to program and monitor the DC-DC chargers.
Oh, and my preference would be to mount the kicker control as shown in your picture rather than along the starboard gunwale. I find it cleaner and less chance of getting bumped or caught in lines, nets, etc.
Some other advantages of lithium are that they provide more usable capacity. i.e. you can draw down a 100 AH lithium deeper without damaging it than a 100 AH AGM. Also, with lead acid batteries, the voltage slowly drops as you deplete the battery; when its 100% charged you might be getting 12.5V, but at 60% it will be less like 11.8V. Lithium batteries on the other hand put out higher volts for longer before they stop to drop off - which is great for voltage sensitive electronics. On my old house battery, if I had the motors shut off while jigging and everything running (sounder, stereo, water system, fridge, etc.) it wouldn't be long before I'd start getting low voltage alarms. With the lithium battery I installed last winter I can go for a couple hours without issue.
As @myles mentioned, you'll need to remove your DVSRs and install a DC-DC charging system to charge off your outboards (and a MPPT if you go solar). It's not too difficult, here's a couple pictures of my setup - the first is everything laid out on the workbench and the second is installed on the boat. The busbar at the top feeds back to the house battery, the one on the left goes back to the common stud and the wires coming in at the bottom are from the engines.
I also installed a Victron SmartShunt battery monitor which allows for the batteries to be monitored from my phone. The Victron app also allows you to program and monitor the DC-DC chargers.
Oh, and my preference would be to mount the kicker control as shown in your picture rather than along the starboard gunwale. I find it cleaner and less chance of getting bumped or caught in lines, nets, etc.
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BCROB
Well-Known Member
luckiest dog on Sportfingbc...
BigBird007
Crew Member
Not sure the room behind the potential control box location but I would see if you could use a side mount control box or sometimes called concealed mount.
Potentially giving you less bends in the control cables, cleaner look when done and less chance of water intrusion as the box it’s self will be out of the elements.
Down side is you will need to mount a key switch some place as well.
Potentially giving you less bends in the control cables, cleaner look when done and less chance of water intrusion as the box it’s self will be out of the elements.
Down side is you will need to mount a key switch some place as well.
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Sharphooks
Well-Known Member
Really helpful comments, Gents—thanks! The LiPo info is VERY helpful and the comments about the kicker control location I take to heart—meanwhile, I discovered that Alberni Power has detailed pix of a Commander 28 and I see from the dance floor config that a side-mount kicker control box makes zero sense—-I’m stuck mounting to the aft console.
I had kicker controls mounted on starboard gunnel like that on my Skagit Orca:
And also have them mounted on the gunnel on the Kodiak:
It was great to have them mounted there this summer when chasing big springs —-all by my lonesome—-rod in the left hand, kicker throttle in the right hand, tiller in my teeth...ha ha
I’m going to finally go look at the boat tomorrow—-ya, it was nuts to cut a big deposit check sight-unseen like that but we do what we do....
I’ll have more mod ideas after I take some measurements tomorrow...thanks again for all the suggestions
I had kicker controls mounted on starboard gunnel like that on my Skagit Orca:
And also have them mounted on the gunnel on the Kodiak:
It was great to have them mounted there this summer when chasing big springs —-all by my lonesome—-rod in the left hand, kicker throttle in the right hand, tiller in my teeth...ha ha
I’m going to finally go look at the boat tomorrow—-ya, it was nuts to cut a big deposit check sight-unseen like that but we do what we do....
I’ll have more mod ideas after I take some measurements tomorrow...thanks again for all the suggestions
Easy to tow......the Ocean master was all thay and more. 10'3" beam. Make sure you have electric over hydraulic disc brakes and it will stop no problem.I am assuming you have the 7.3 gasser f350? Diesel power would be better but I'm sure you will be fine. How wide is the 28? 10'?
Looks great.
Looks great.
Sharphooks
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that, Mike
No. I‘ve got the 7.3 gasser F250—I heard the main difference between the F250 and F350 is payload capacity, not necessarily tow capacity, though the F350 has stiffer leaf springs. I’ll tow it local, see how it feels. I did get a good trailer, though: E/H disk brakes.
The Commander is 30 LOA with 9’9”beam....you talked me out of the last one I looked at 3 or so years ago because it had the DF350 counter-rotating props that at the time had ongoing lower unit problems. I finally found a Commander with the old-school DF300’s...I know those outboards —- had one for a few years. They have a good rep for getting thousands of hours on them without issue
Won't you be the next new sled??
sly_karma
Crew Member
Charter boat i was on at WH in July was running twin 250 Suzuki, no problem achieving desired troll speeds. And the damn things were quieter than my merc 9.9 4 stroke. So jealous.
But anyway, enjoy that fine new rig. Did so enjoy your most recent trip reports.
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