Fuse Holder Position

Baxter

Well-Known Member
Recently I had an issue traced down to a fuse holder buried in the transom (was at the very back where the wires all go through that pass-through - since moved).

I replaced the fuse holder and fuse and problems were solved.

There are two other inline fuses here, both for the Scotties. There is one other one on the reverse side of that "divider" for the washdown pump. (Note: Yes I realize they are not secured in the photo. One just broke and the other I had detached in preparation for replacement)

One of the scotty fuse holders is starting to corrode. Had to replace the fuse while fishing a few weeks back (thank god for backups, ball was down 300'!). So on my "to-do" is to replace that holder as well.

I have a few options here.

One option is to simply upgrade and add a BlueSea fuse block back there. My worry though is that the same will happen to it. Seems like a dumb place for electrical connections, but it is what it is at the moment. Question is - is this a terrible place to put a fuse block?

Another option is to reroute everything and put the fuse block at the helm. More inline fuses up there as well, and everything could be cleaned up nicely. Probably the best solution, but also a **** ton of work, lots of extra wire to run, far greater expense. To be honest, I am feeling too lazy to go this route - but.... maybe I should just do it? IMO this is probably the "Best" way to handle this, but is it really necessary and worth the time and money?

Or third option, just keep an eye on these inline fuse holders, get a couple spares for on the boat, and replace as needed. Not ideal, but seems to me these sealed holders may be the best solution short of a big electrical re-route? Cheapest option, not hard or time consuming to replace them, likely "Good enough"?
 

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The last couple of boats I've had and my current project boat I mounted a fuse panel on the transom to run my downriggers and washdown pump.That way I know exactly where to replace the fuse in a hurry if necessary,it never has been. I don't like a lot of wires connected to the batteries.I had more room up high to mount a 100 amp.fuse block.
 
The last couple of boats I've had and my current project boat I mounted a fuse panel on the transom to run my downriggers and washdown pump.That way I know exactly where to replace the fuse in a hurry if necessary,it never has been. I don't like a lot of wires connected to the batteries.I had more room up high to mount a 100 amp.fuse block.
Ya, Space is a bit of an issue... Even at the helm there really isnt an ideal spot to add a block... was thinking just next to the switch. Protected from the elements for the most part... I will probably go this route...
 
I just did this on mine, replaced the wiring, one side got a 40 amp series 285 for the puller, other side got a spade fuse as there was only one blue sea available. This was about $220 total including double 10 gauge wire and some ring terminals. I just ordered a second 285 to replace the spade I installed. I put the breakers close to the battery bus and under a rear seat that's really easy to get at if I get hung up and I have to reset it. I wouldn't want it somewhere you have to end up on your hands and knees to reset or replace.
 
I like to run these for my downriggers

I also went with these last year in our downrigger circuits. We tried resetable spade fuses as an upgrade to the original fuses, but really weren't satisfied with the performance. They seemed to pop with any load at all. These levered style are a fantastic upgrade. Using the same amperage capacity as the 'blades' we replaced, these never seem to trip prematurely. They are seemingly absolutely weatherproof as well. In our little Whaler, the only place I had to mount them was exposed on the stern and after a year, no issues. I wouldn't hesitate to use them in any heavy load circut (puller, downriggers, washdown, bilge pump) that I want protected and resettable. Great product. jc Tuna Maru
 
I have a purpose built downrigger jumper cable that can go from one scotty receptacle on one side of the boat to the other-save those Holy sh*t moments when a fuse goes at 250 feet bouncing bottom. Then you can replace the fuse once everything is safe!!
With a circuit breaker in the system rather than a fuse, it literally takes less than 5 seconds to reset. And the fact that these are water proof, you can put them anywhere you need them to be to be convenient. The reset time would be a fraction of the time it takes you to unplug your dedicated plug and plug in your 'jumper'. No extra wires to manage either. The speed, dependability, and convenience will amaze you. jc Tuna Maru
 
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